“What, you go rock climbing in winter?” I hear that question time and time again. But for climbers, winter isn’t just about skiing, indoor climbing and ice climbing – it’s also about real rock.
Certain crags are ideal for the colder months. What’s more, the cool, dry winter air ensures perfect friction.
Text: Matthias Bader
In summer, the sun is the rock climber’s enemy; in winter, it’s their best friend. Without it, nothing works on the rock. So the rule is:
The following crags on the Martinswand near Zirl in the Innsbruck region have earned the designation ‘winter crag’.
Dschungelbuch is the ultimate winter climbing area in the Innsbruck area: short access, south-facing slopes and endless routes. Sounds perfect – but the ‘Dschungel’, as the locals call it, wouldn’t be the Dschungel if there weren’t a catch somewhere.
A flat, vertical wall, tricky climbing with hard-to-read holds and small handholds, sometimes long distances between bolts, and the traditionally tough grading – this has driven more than a few indoor grade 8 climbers to despair before they’ve even reached the first bolt. I was no different on my first visit. It was only after a few days that my love for the Dschungel blossomed, and in some winters my car found its way to the car park beneath the Martinswand almost of its own accord.
At a glance:
Whenever I was hanging there, clinging desperately to the rope, I’d look over at the shady, snow-covered Kalkkögel and think to myself: how lucky I am. Here in winter, we climb in the sun wearing just a T-shirt – and anyone who wants to can head over to the other side of the valley for skiing afterwards. Two seasons in one day, right on our doorstep.
Another superb winter climbing area on the Martinswand is the Grottenwegwand. The first sector features many easier routes – ‘D-Tour’ (6a+) is particularly recommended.
A few metres further on, directly in front of the Kaiser-Max-Grotte, there is a sector with routes mainly graded at the eighth French degree.
The Mull is a small crag to the west of the large quarry in Zirl. The face faces south-west and doesn’t get any sun until midday – making it perfect for the afternoon in winter.
Recommended routes: ‘Il Matrimonio’ (6c+), ‘Aka Matti Success’ (7b+) and ‘Red Bolt’.
The ÖAV crag on the Martinswand offers plenty of easy routes, a sunny spot and good safety measures – perfect for taking your first steps on the rock, and not just in winter.
Another crag on the Martinswand is the Galerie: the access is a little longer, but it offers a perfect view over the Inn Valley.
At a glance: 54 routes, 6 to 32 metres long, difficulty grades 4 to 8.
Caution: risk of rockfall – and the bolt loops are often loose. More on this topic: report hazardous spots whilst climbing.
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