Winter climbing in Tirol: 5 tips & sunny climbing areas

Updated on: 05. Jan 2026
Rock climbing when everyone else is out ski touring – isn’t that madness? No! Because in winter, the sunny south-facing cliffs offer the best grip conditions of the year. We’ll explain why winter climbing is so much fun and give you five tips on how to keep your fingers warm, even when the temperature drops below freezing.

Friction, baby! It’s all about the grip!

Friction is at its very best when temperatures are low and humidity is low. That’s why the toughest routes are climbed in winter. But everyone else will notice the difference too: that nasty hold that you slid right off in August suddenly holds you in place – once your fingers have warmed up.

Admittedly, you do need to be a bit of a rock-climbing fanatic to be out climbing all winter long. But once you’ve got into the right frame of mind, you’ll keep coming back to the crag time and time again, even when the temperature’s below freezing. Provided, of course, that you’re in the right place at the right time. But more on that later.

“It’s all about the grip, baby!” – that’s probably the best way to sum up the motivation for winter climbing. Because for really small crimps and really tiny footholds, you need not only the necessary power but also the necessary friction. And that friction is at its very best when temperatures are low and humidity is low. In other words, in winter. That’s why the toughest projects are usually tackled in conditions where others would rather go ski touring or go sledging. 

But even those who aren’t tackling the level of difficulty 11 will quickly notice the difference: that nasty hold you were constantly slipping off in August suddenly ‘holds’. And that tiny foothold you never quite dared to step on is no longer a problem at all. “It’s all about the grip, baby!”, and that’s why winter climbing is so much fun! Once your fingers are warm, that is.

5 tips for winter climbing

  1. Warming up properly: In winter, warming up is essential. Rock Climbing Areas with 10- to 20-minute Access are ideal. Once on the rock, get your fingers warm first and start with easy routes featuring large holds – if you hammer away at too-small crimps too soon, your finger tendons will quickly take offence.
  2. Clothed at the bottom, bare-chested at the top (down jacket): A microclimate forms on sunny Rock Faces – when the sun is low in the sky, the rays hit the rock almost vertically and heat it up. So you’ll be climbing in a T-shirt, whilst the belayer down below is wrapped up warm and freezing.
  3. Shoes under your jacket: Don’t leave your climbing shoes on the freezing ground; stuff them under your down jacket instead – that way, you can slip into pleasantly warm shoes before every route.
  4. Heated chalk bag: Hand warmers (heat pads) provide extra warmth. Or a stone heated on a gas burner in your chalk bag – a little hand warmer for in between climbs.
  5. Stay warm from the inside: A thermos flask is a climber’s best friend on chilly winter days. Plus the right kit: long johns, gloves for belaying, a Buff, and a warm jacket.

5 tips for sunny Rock Climbing Areas in Tirol in winter

  1. Dschungelbuch, Martinswand (Innsbruck): Very close to the city, right on the River Inn. Often climbable throughout the winter, provided the sky is clear and there is no wind. In good conditions, you can still see climbers in shorts here in December.
  2. Rote Wand, Karres (Imst Outdoor Region): South-facing, with many routes at lower and intermediate Levels of Difficulty. The rock dries quickly after rain, and snow on access is rarely a problem.
  3. Plangeross, Pitztal: Top-notch gneiss at just under 2,000 metres – one of the routes there is called ‘Hitzeschlag im November’ (Heatstroke in November). The good news: deep snow often doesn’t arrive until December.
  4. Chinesische Mauer, Leutasch: South-facing at 1,700 metres. The sun shines on the wall from around 10.00 to 14.30 – in the middle section and right at the top, there are even routes where the belayer stands in full sun.
  5. Schleierwasserfall, Wilder Kaiser: An area for hard-core climbers with a large overhang and excellent winter conditions. With an hour of access, you’ll need plenty of motivation.

The winter Rock Climbing Areas featured in this article

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