The Best of Ötztal
Solid rock, countless brilliant spots and so many fantastic routes that it’s hard to know where to start with a ‘best of’ list. Here’s an attempt.
Difficulty:difficulty: 5 - 8Place:Längenfeld / Ötztalroutes:140 routes
Solid, sturdy rock and so many brilliant routes that it’s hard to know where to start when compiling a ‘best of’ guide to the Ötztal. Here, however, is an attempt to provide a good overview of the most beautiful sport climbing areas and Multi-Pitch Climbing routes.
In the Ötztal, a climber’s paradise, there are so many brilliant spots that, in a way, they’re all worthy of a ‘best of’ list. But let’s leave that as a luxury problem. Anyone who wants to feel solid rock beneath their fingertips and heads to the Ötztal for that reason simply can’t go far wrong.
Text: Simon Schöpf
As well as its rock-solid granite gneiss in the otherwise predominantly limestone-dominated Tyrolean countryside, the Ötztal captivates above all with its sheer variety:
Everything thrives here within a small area; all the Finishing Points offer some pretty good climbing. Nevertheless, a few Rock Climbing Areas stand out. Here is a subjective, but well-founded, selection.
1. Niederthai
If you were to design a top spot on the drawing board – this is what it would look like. Anyone who reads up on Niederthai is bound to come across the phrase ‘huge granite boulders scattered throughout the fairytale forest’ at some point. And you have to admit: it’s true. There really isn’t a better way to describe the area. So: off you go to the fairy-tale forest – you’re guaranteed a proper workout.
2. Engelswand
: We’re not sharing any insider tips here – and the Engelswand hasn’t been one for quite some time. It’s no surprise why: a lovely flat cow pasture to set up belays, complete with a children’s playground, brilliant routes covering the entire difficulty spectrum, and pushchair-friendly access. As popular as ever – and still quite rightly so.
3. Oberried
When a cow happily nibbles at the end of the rope: it’s almost an everyday sight at the Oberried Rock Climbing Area near Längenfeld. The cows were there first, after all; now we monkeys are climbing in their living room – we’ve only ourselves to blame. Those who keep the ravenous herds in check will find the perfect Family friendly Rock Climbing Area here, with dream routes to make you melt. Simply brilliant.
1. Nösslach
The routes at Nösslach have such lovely names that you simply have to climb them: “Strada del Sole” (7), “Utopia” (8-) or “Träumerei” (7-). Almost every metre here is just that. Short access, leisurely descent, stunning panorama – and because the routes are bolted almost to the standard of sport climbing, the popularity of this imposing face is self-explanatory.
2. Burgsteinerwand
: Just where the Ötztal opens out again lies the Burgsteinerwand – a small but excellent multi-pitch climbing area, somewhat off the beaten track for sport climbing. Nevertheless, the routes are bolted to sport-climbing standards. The rock is top-notch as ever, and whether you’re flitting through the ‘Schwalbennest’ (7) or scaling the ‘Schwarze Mauer’ (8.), Multi-Pitch Climbing doesn’t get any better than this.
3. Geierwand
The Geierwand stands out. Firstly, because of its location: not inside the Ötztal, but still out in the Inn Valley. Secondly, because of the rock: limestone instead of gneiss, and not always entirely solid either. Why is it still listed here, then? It’s rare to find such well-bolted routes over so many pitches. And even if you have to trudge through a large rock ledge with plenty of scree in the middle – routes like ‘Im Auge des Geiers’ or ‘Nebraska’ offer surprisingly brilliant climbing sections. And plenty of sunshine, of course.
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