In addition, there are 67 glaciers in the Ötztal Nature Park; 18 per cent of the nature park’s area is covered in permanent ice. And to round off the statistics: alongside 250 peaks over 3,000 metres, there are a good 600 climbing routes, including 19 Rock Climbing Areas and numerous multi-pitch routes.
The Ötztal owes its appearance, including its striking steep terraces, to nature: mighty glacier tongues shaped the narrow trough-like valley, whilst rockfalls gave the inner-Alpine dry valley its terraced landscape.
Three weeks’ summer holiday and no plans? We recommend a climbing road trip through the Ötztal.
Text: Susa Schreiner
The Starting Point is Haiming – although it lies on the River Inn, it is just a stone’s throw from the entrance to the Ötz Valley. The climbing destination is the imposing Geierwand, several hundred metres high: fantastic multi-pitch routes, plus a Via Ferrata/Iron Way and a Rock Climbing Area to welcome you. The routes are all perfectly bolted, and the limestone offers good grip and a rough texture.
The white-water tip: this little village on the River Inn is Tirol’s hub for guided rafting and canyoning tours. The first operators set up shop here in the early 1990s – and have stayed ever since. Simply pop into one of the centres and complete Registration for a trip.
From Haiming, the route leads through pine forests with a Mediterranean feel, past Ötztal railway station and into the valley. At the Oetz and Rammelstein Rock Climbing Areas in Sautens, the rock type changes: whilst we were still gripping limestone at the Geierwand, from here on it’s all granite.
If you fancy it, you can climb in the south-facing Oetz Rock Climbing Area in the morning and dip your toes in the cool water in the afternoon. The north-facing Rammelstein promises a full day’s climbing on cracks, pockets and ledges. Both areas offer routes for beginners as well as more ambitious climbers.
Adventure tip: Area 47 is the perfect playground for water lovers and thrill-seekers – wakeboarding, water slides, a high ropes course.
The indulgence tip: The upper Ötztal valley, with its fruit trees, is ideal for easy walks and leisurely cycle rides. If you prefer a quieter pace than at Area 47, cycle from Oetz to Lake Piburg. Don’t forget your snack.
A classic and well worth a stop for that reason alone: the Engelswand is very popular with many families thanks to its location, the easy access and the wide meadow at the foot of the wall – and quite rightly so.
Both children and adults can enjoy a relaxed day’s climbing here: taking turns to climb, having a rest and watching the cows.
How about a day of rest? You could spend it, for example, marvelling at Tirol’s highest waterfall: the Stuibenfall near Umhausen plunges 159 metres down two steep drops – a delightful way to cool off on hot summer’s days.
If you don’t want to miss out on a bit of rock climbing altogether, tackle the Stuibenfall Via Ferrata/Iron Way: a 450-metre climb up to the left and right of the waterfall, including the impressive crossing of the falls via wire ropes. The route is suitable for children aged ten and over. Follow that up with an ice cream – or two – and you’ve got the perfect day’s climbing and relaxation.
Well rested, we head to Nösslach for multi-pitch climbing. The face faces west/south-west – so it’s worth getting up early to be the first rope team to start the day’s climbing at a leisurely pace. How about the ‘Träumerei’ or the ‘Sonnenblume’?
The beautiful lines in the gneiss require precise footwork and a well-balanced centre of gravity. Metre by metre, we make our way uphill, and with every move we get more and more into the flow.
Tips & Safety
Would you like to know more about climbing safety? Click here for our safety tips.
