Ötztal – Granite for everyone, from multi-play to multi-pitch

The Ötztal has a soft spot for climbers: from lovingly designed Rock Climbing Areas for Families to challenging walls for experts looking to test their limits. Nearly 750 routes across 19 Rock Climbing Areas – may the summer last forever …
Kletterinnen und Kletterer im Klettergarten Oberried bei Längenfeld im Ötztal
Kletterinnen und Kletterer im Klettergarten Oberried bei Längenfeld im Ötztal

The longest transverse valley in the Eastern Alps

The Ötztal is certainly not short on attractions, so here are the key facts in a nutshell: with a distance of 65 kilometres, this trough-shaped valley is the longest side valley of the Inn Valley and also the longest transverse valley in the entire Eastern Alps.

What’s more, it brings together no fewer than five climatic and scenic zones, which rise in striking, steep terraces from the start of the valley – right up to its spectacular highlight: the Timmelsjoch High Alpine Road at a pass height of 2,474 metres. At the head of the valley, rainfall is scarce, allowing fruit trees, chestnut trees and even grapevines to thrive magnificently. At the valley’s end near Obergurgl, by contrast, a harsh, high-alpine climate prevails.

  • A good 18 per cent of the Ötztal Nature Park lies within the permanent ice fields
  • Around 250 peaks top the 3,000-metre mark
  • 750 routes across 19 Rock Climbing Areas, plus a multitude of Multi-Pitch Climbing areas

Incidentally, Reinhard Schiestl made climbing history here by opening the first Grade 9 climbing route in Tirol in the early 1980s. The crème de la crème of the climbing world love to meet up in Niederthai to train or simply to have fun. But wait: the Ötztal doesn’t just offer treats at the higher Levels of Difficulty; it definitely has a place in its heart for climbing novices and Families too.

Text: Susa Schreiner

Oberried – A meeting place for climbers of all levels

Young families in particular will recognise the situation: the parents want to go climbing, but the children definitely need to have fun and be able to play too – ideally on a wide open meadow where they’re allowed to run about. It’s a real stroke of luck if the area also has easy routes where the little ones can have a go.

The Oberried Rock Climbing Area near Längenfeld is a prime example of this – a ‘multiplayer’, as they say these days. There are a total of 142 routes here on top-quality gneiss, ranging from Level of Difficulty 3 to 9 – with a good number across all Levels of Difficulty. It’s worth starting your day’s climbing early: after all, you’ll also want to make the most of the stylish relaxation area between routes and let the children run about in their own designated area. Incidentally, Oberried isn’t just a Climbers Paradise for families who love climbing, but a real favourite spot for anyone fancying a relaxed day’s climbing.

Climbers at the Oberried Crag near Längenfeld in the Ötztal

Family first

However imposing the Ötztal may seem as a trough valley, with its peaks soaring steeply into the sky on either side, it has a soft spot for the little things and for its young visitors. This is evident from the large sunbathing lawns, the lovingly designed playgrounds and, yes, this is important too: toilet facilities.

And because a proper summer holiday always includes a spot of swimming, Mother Nature has blessed the Ötztal with Lake Piburg. More recently, all manner of Mountain Bike Parks have been added by human hands, along with a water park situated at the 47th parallel: ‘Area 47’.

A family climbing at a Crag in the Ötztal

Days off in the Ötztal? It’s actually quite hectic …

Are your fingers tired and your muscles exhausted? Time for a rest day. On hot summer’s days, the best way to spend them is by the water: either swimming or marvelling at Tirol’s highest waterfall, the Stuibenfall near Umhausen. Here, the water plunges over two steep drops, tumbling a total of 159 metres into the depths with a mighty roar.

If you don’t want to miss out on a bit of rock climbing altogether, there’s an interesting Via Ferrata/Iron Way to tackle here. The route has a distance of 450 metres and runs up the left and right sides of the waterfall – and is truly impressive: crossing the waterfall on wire ropes. The Via Ferrata/Iron Way is suitable for children aged 10 and over. Follow that up with an ice cream, and you’ve got the perfect day’s rest from climbing.

Via ferrata climbers on the Stuibenfall near Umhausen in the Ötztal

Post-climb and Culinary Experience

The air is shimmering, the crickets are chirping in unison and your fingers are ‘sore from climbing’ all those routes. High time for a dip in the cool water! Depending on where in the long, narrow valley you’ve been climbing, you can easily cycle from Oetz to Lake Piburg, for example. Afterwards, stretch your legs out on the lakeside terrace and cool your fingers with a cold drink – and, of course, a bit of climbing banter is a must.

Swimming’s all well and good, but is your hunger getting the better of you? Tip: At the “Ötztalerei” you’ll find homemade ice cream and delicious burgers – all sourced locally, all homemade and all with a view of the church. It’s practically a bite of indulgence and church culture all in one.

Lake Piburg in the Ötztal valley

Everything – except climbing

In a nutshell: Mountain biking, Mountain biking, Mountain biking. Whether you’re Mountain biking along the Ötztal Cycle Route to the Rock Climbing Areas and via ferrata, or on the trails of the ‘Bike Republic’ – you’ll always get your money’s worth on two wheels in the Ötztal.

Water sports are also a big draw, such as rafting or canyoning. Or you could spend a day at ‘Area 47’ enjoying the water slides and wakeboarding. The ‘Aqua Dome’ promises plenty of relaxation: the thermal spa in Längenfeld is an ideal haven of tranquillity for rainy days.

Ötztal by bus and Mountain biking – every 30 minutes

If you want to travel sustainably, take the free bus, which runs every 30 minutes into and out of the valley, serving all the villages and numerous Starting Points for climbing and mountain tours (as of 2021). Alternatively, you can hire an E-Bike locally and whizz along the Ötztal Cycle Route from one highlight to the next.

Accommodation

The “Feelfree Nature Resort” in Oetz is the perfect spot for climbing enthusiasts – lovely chalets and rooms, a climbing wall in the garden, a charming restaurant, and the Ötztal Cycle Route starts right on the doorstep.

The alternative for camping enthusiasts: the campsite in Umhausen. It’s situated not far from the Stuibenfall waterfall and offers a cosy restaurant as well as a bouldering wall on the site.

The spots featured in this article

  • Niederthai

    Difficulty:difficulty: 5 - 8Place:Längenfeld / Ötztalroutes:140 routes
  • Stuibenfall Via Ferrata/Iron Way

    Opening hours:closed
    Difficulty:CExposition:SW
    Duration:1:30 hDuration:0:30 hElevation difference:210 m

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