5 belay devices for sport climbing (explained with videos)
Tuber, GriGri+, NEOX, Click Up+ and Fish: what sets these devices apart – and what you need to know about using them.
Semi-automatic, auto-tubers or Classic tubers: there is a wide range of belay devices available – and the differences are greater than they appear at first glance.
We have compiled a list of the five most common devices, each accompanied by a relevant video from the ‘SicherAmBerg’ series produced by the Austrian Alpine Club. These videos demonstrate, step by step, how to use each device correctly – feeding out rope, arresting a fall and lowering.
Videos: Austrian Alpine Club
Whatever the equipment – a Partner check before every climb is a fundamental safety standard. Both partners check the following five points together:
In sport climbing, the Tuber is a dying breed: it has no locking mechanism, and the braking effect is lost as soon as the ‘braking hand’ principle is breached. The braking effect is generated solely by the friction created by the braking hand on the rope – this type of device therefore does not forgive mistakes.
Nevertheless, it is not obsolete: very experienced belayers and those in the competitive arena continue to use it because it allows for particularly dynamic and smooth belaying. In alpine climbing, it is the standard choice anyway.
The GriGri+ is the third generation of the Classic GriGri and can undoubtedly be regarded as the benchmark in the belay device market. In addition to its standard functions, it features an anti-panic function and two operating modes: you can switch between top-rope and lead climbing. This affects the response of the locking cam – in top-rope mode, the locking mechanism engages more quickly.
The NEOX is the latest semi-automatic belay device on the market and is optimised for lead climbing. Instead of a simple locking cam, the device features an integrated pulley over which the rope runs. This ensures even rope feed and makes rapid rope feeding whilst belaying a lead climber significantly more comfortable – whilst retaining the locking function.
The Click Up has two modes: a lead climbing mode and a locking mode. The latter is primarily intended for top-rope climbing and beginner’s courses. The device is only suitable for children to a limited extent, as unlocking it from locking mode requires a bit of strength and practice. Important to note: The device does not lock if the brake cord is fed in at too steep an angle. Overall, the Click Up is a well-designed product and, as such, very popular.
The Fish is a semi-automatic belay device for single ropes and the only Autotuber with a release lever. The device is very easy to use and performs well even with thicker ropes. The device is released by pressing a ‘spout’ upwards – this can be a bit quick at first, but it’s just a matter of getting used to it.
The Alpine Club has reviewed a whole host of other belay devices – from the Smart, through the ATC Pilot and the Jul2, right up to the Revo, Pinch, Birdie and Lifeguard. If you haven’t found your device listed here, you’ll find it in the playlist:
Go to the Austrian Alpine Club’s ‘Climbing: Belay Devices’ playlist
And no matter which device you choose: a video is no substitute for a course. If you’re a beginner or switching to a different device, it’s best to practise under supervision – and on a top-rope before attempting lead climbing.
Tips & Safety
Would you like to know more about climbing safety? Click here for our safety tips.
