Local Climbing, Chapter 2. The Achensee Region

A Norwegian fjord, a Canadian national park, a touch of Lake Garda: around Tirol’s largest lake, you can climb your way around the world – all in a pocket-sized format.
A view across the long, narrow Lake Achensee with its steep Rock Faces
A view across the long, narrow Lake Achensee with its steep Rock Faces

A round-the-world trip in your pocket

Tirol’s largest lake stretches out across a deep basin and, depending on your vantage point and the angle from which you view it, can at times resemble a Norwegian fjord with its deep blue waters.

Steep, towering Rock Faces rise up towards the sky, whilst the lake takes on the appearance of a sea inlet. A few kilometres further on, the same stretch of water takes on a turquoise hue, rivalling many a Caribbean island. The road to Pertisau is reminiscent of the lakeside road on Lake Garda, whilst the colourful sails of the surfers and kite-surfers complete the ‘dolce vita’ atmosphere.

Anyone hiking from Pertisau towards the Karwendel valleys and taking in the rugged mountain landscape might even imagine they’re in a Canadian national park. The only thing missing is the bears – but the marmots are whistling away, completely harmless.

Text: Susa Schreiner

Climbing with a Canadian flair: the Karwendel Mountains

Just beyond Pertisau, that Canadian feeling sets in: the three Karwendel valleys stretch deep into the mountains, the peaks rise majestically into the sky, and gnarled trees bear witness to harsh winters.

Following the gently ascending path to the Gramai Alpine Pasture is a real pleasure – especially by bike, as the landscape rolls by at a leisurely pace and the anticipation grows with every metre. You can also get there by car (toll applies). The Starting Point is always the car park at the Gramai Alpine Pasture.

Wooded landscape in the Karwendel Mountains behind Pertisau

Gramai Alpine Pasture: spoilt for choice

From here, you’re spoilt for choice: sport climbing, alpine climbing or well-secured Multi-Pitch Climbing? The large topo sign at the Alpine Pasture vies for attention alongside the climbing guide in your hand.

If you’re looking for a leisurely day’s climbing, the Gramai Wasserfall Rock Climbing Area is highly recommended. Ten interesting routes await across two sectors. Climbing in the left-hand sector is a real treat, especially on hot days: the routes start at the base of the Gramai Waterfall. With the spray on your skin and your feet in the cool water – don’t forget your swimming trunks and picnic basket.

Gramai Alpine Pasture with panoramic views of the Karwendel

Arco-Flair and la dolce vita at Maurach

The Achensee near Maurach has an almost Caribbean feel to it. And when the kitesurfers race across the water with their colourful kites, you can almost catch a whiff of Italy. Add to that an ice cream in your hand or a glass of Aperol on the table – traveller’s heart, what more could you want?

A kitesurfer with a colourful kite on Lake Achensee

Bärenkopf Rock Climbing Area: Mars, Snickers and first ascents

The Bärenkopf Rock Climbing Area is situated just above the Lärchenwiese neighbourhood in Maurach – practically just round the corner from Dolce Vita. The access takes 10 to 15 minutes, after which you’ll find yourself in the lower sector.

The routes there are easy, perfectly bolted and therefore ideal for your first attempts at lead climbing. If you’re looking for a greater challenge, take a steep path through the mountain forest up to the upper sector. The route names here – such as ‘Mars’ and ‘Snickers’ – are rather charming; depending on your ability, the climbing is either a treat or a real challenge, but in any case well worth the effort.

A female climber at the Bärenkopf Rock Climbing Area above Maurach

A fjord atmosphere with views down into the valley: the Rofan

The Rofan has little in common with Norway – nor does it need to, as the mountain range is a feast for the eyes in its own right: wide alpine meadows, steep, picturesque peaks that stand guard over hikers and climbers like tin soldiers. Nevertheless, there’s a touch of that Norwegian atmosphere, for instance on the path from the Rofan top station to the Dalfazalm. The views, which make Lake Achensee look like an inlet far up in the north, are astonishing.

For those travelling with children: the Dalfazer and Buchauer waterfalls offer all sorts of opportunities to bring Nordic goblins to life.

Otherwise, the Rofan has something to suit almost every level of ability:

All around lies a high-alpine landscape that shows itself at its most beautiful in summer: colourful flowers, whistling marmots and jackdaws cheekily sneaking a bite of cheese on bread.

The rocky summit of the Rotspitz in the Rofan Mountains

The climbing areas featured in this article

  • Gramai

    Difficulty:difficulty: 4 - 7a+Place:Eben am Achensee / Achensee
    To the climbing area: Gramai
  • Bear's Head

    Difficulty:difficulty: 4 - 7Place:Eben am Achensee / Achenseeroutes:24 routes
  • Mauritzalm

    Difficulty:difficulty: 3Place:Eben am Achensee / Achenseeroutes:5 routes
  • Grub plate

    Difficulty:difficulty: 3 - 6Place:Eben am Achensee / Achenseeroutes:18 routes
  • Rotspitz

    Difficulty:difficulty: 1 - 7a+Place:Eben am Achensee / Achensee
    To the climbing area: Rotspitz

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