Local Climbing, Chapter 4. The Wild Pitztal Valley

Just under 40 kilometres of a side valley, a climber’s paradise: Bouldering in the Märchenwald, sport climbing in the shade, and in between, a swimming pond, campfires and two Hessian Mountain Lodges/Huts.
View across the village of Wenns in the outer Pitztal valley towards the Tschirgant
View across the village of Wenns in the outer Pitztal valley towards the Tschirgant

From the gentle low mountain range to the striking ‘V’

A summer holiday in the Pitztal? Definitely! Because this southern side valley of the Inn Valley, with a distance of just under 40 kilometres, has a whole lot to offer – especially for anyone who enjoys scrambling over rocks and boulders.

The head of the valley, better known as the Outer Pitztal, is a wide expanse of gently sloping hillsides and equally gentle rises. The villages of Arzl, Wald, Wenns and Jerzens are situated here, where the undulating terrain creates a picturesque low-mountain landscape. The broad Pillerhöhe plateau also enchants with its scenery – and marks the link to the Kaunertal.

As you drive further into the valley along the main road, the mountains gradually draw nearer, the valley narrows and closes in to form a striking ‘V’. The peaks are within touching distance, and the views are spectacular. Welcome to the Innerpitztal with its famous Wildspitze, which, strictly speaking, is part of the Ötztal Alps – but never mind that …

The range of outdoor activities is correspondingly diverse: from leisurely walks to high-altitude alpine tours, from waterfall trails to sunbathing, not to mention the many trail running routes, including the Pitztal Glacier Ski Resort Maniac (95 kilometres and around 6.500 metres of altitude!). But most importantly: the Pitztal has a soft spot for climbers and Bouldering enthusiasts.

Text: Susa Schreiner

Climber looking down over the Pitztal valley

A summer getaway: Bouldering at Mandlers Boden

36 degrees, and it’s set to get even hotter, according to the weather forecasters. So, better go for a swim? Nah, I’d rather go for Bouldering! At Mandlers Boden, to be precise. The boulders are scattered far and wide throughout the dense forest, which is punctuated by pretty clearings – ideal for relaxing, sunbathing or napping. And apart from that: checking out bouldering problems, working out solutions and breathing in the crisp, fresh scent of the forest. Lovely.

The difficulty levels range from ‘Hänsel’ and ‘Gretel’ – two easy routes on boulder 22 – to ‘Ninja Skil’, a route graded 7c on boulder 54. So if you’re coming with the whole family, there’s something for every ability level.

  • Boulders: 55
  • Bouldering: around 180
  • Difficulty: 2–7
  • Extra: designated fire pits on site

Because after Bouldering comes a swim – or a campfire. When the flames dance up into the sky, the logs crackle and the night birds begin to sing, it’s definitely a memory for young and old alike that will stay with you for a long time to come.

Bouldering enthusiasts on a boulder in the Mandlers Boden woodland area in the Pitztal valley

Dive into the Pitztal ‘underworld’ on hot days

Do you prefer rock climbing with a rope? No problem – how about the Unterwelt Rock Climbing Area? Tucked deep in the woods, this spot is ideal for climbing sessions on hot summer’s days. The aspect is spot on too: north-east. It doesn’t get much better than that.

However, the Unterwelt isn’t for ‘softies’ – in other words, the routes are rated tough – at least up to grade 7 – and demand your full attention and physical effort right from the very first move. Otherwise, it’s a top summer spot, and there’s always time for a bit of bouldering.

  • Routes: 57
  • Distance: 8–30 m
  • Difficulty: 5–8
  • Exposure: North-east, best time early May to late September
  • Rain-proof: Hellraiser sector, Mafia sector and some routes in the Sphinx sector

Witch's Cauldron: for cool summer days or early risers

The Hexenkessel Rock Climbing Area is situated in the Innerpitztal, where the two sides of the valley converge closely and the mountain peaks soar high into the sky. This long, narrow rock face lies at an altitude of 2,000 metres and offers some fantastic climbing routes on top-quality gneiss.

It may not be the ideal area for beginners, and is only suitable to a limited extent for those making the transition from indoor climbing to the rock for the first time. However, anyone who feels comfortable with routes from grade 7 upwards and has experience of rock climbing will have a brilliant time here. Otherwise, choose an experienced lead climber as your climbing partner and you’ll have fun too. Depending on the route, the lines are reminiscent either of an athletic street dance or of a slab crawl. A colourful mix offering surprisingly varied climbing.

  • Routes: 85
  • Distance: 8–35 m
  • Difficulty: 5–8
  • Altitude: around 2,000 m

One slight drawback: the face faces south-west, so it’s not ideal for hot summer days. All the more reason to enjoy it when the day is cloudy with moderate temperatures. Another option: get up at the crack of dawn, make the most of the cool of the early hours and spend the rest of the day in the lush flower meadow at the foot of the face. The view towards the Pitztal Glacier Ski Resort and the Kaunergrathütte is magnificent. Take a blanket and a snack with you and become a forager yourself – depending on the season, the sweet raspberries and plump cranberries here practically grow right into your mouth.

Panorama of the Hexenkessel Rock Climbing Area in the upper Pitztal valley

Let the water flow!

Are the kids absolutely determined not to miss out on a dip whilst on holiday? Then pack up the water lovers and head to the Stillebach Water Parks. The swimming pond, with its large sunbathing lawn, offers a prime view of the Glacier Ski Resort, where the eternal ice glistens in the sun.

The Klockefall, one of the most beautiful waterfalls in the Pitztal valley, whose torrents plunge 150 metres to the ground with a roar, can also be admired wonderfully from here – and, incidentally, it’s a well-known destination for Ice Climbing in winter.

Stillebach swimming pond in the Pitztal valley, with a sunbathing area and views towards the Glacier Ski Resort

A little piece of Hesse in Tirol: the Mainz and Rüsselsheim sections

No fewer than two Hessian sections of the Alpine Club are represented in the Innerpitztal, with their Mountain Lodges/Huts situated practically opposite one another. On one side is the Kaunergrath Mountain Lodge/Hut, at an altitude of 2,817 metres, belonging to the Mainz section. The two-and-a-half to three-hour access from the valley car park is extremely varied, and the surroundings are particularly charming thanks to their high-alpine and barren character.

On the other side of the valley, the steep path winds its way up to theRüsselsheim Mountain Lodge/Hut – conveniently, you practically pass the Hexenkessel on the way. It was built in 1926 by the Chemnitz Section; from 1955 it was under the care of the Rüsselsheimers; and since 1973 it has been owned by the Hessians, following the dissolution of the Chemnitz Section.

The Rüsselsheimer Mountain Lodge/Hut, with its stone bay window, perches like an eagle’s nest and offers breathtaking views. The ascent, which takes a good two hours, can be made more enjoyable for those who aren’t keen on walking by the prospect of a ‘knight’s castle’ complete with Kaiserschmarren, dumplings and the like.

The Kaunergrathütte, at 2,817 metres in the Innerpitztal valley

The areas covered in this article

  • Unterwelt Rock Climbing Area

    Difficulty:difficulty: 5 - 8Place:St. Leonhard im Pitztal / Pitztalroutes:57 routes
  • Plangeross Cauldron

    Difficulty:difficulty: 5 - 8Place:St. Leonhard im Pitztal / Pitztalroutes:85 routes

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