Where the Pitztal narrows into a steep V-shaped valley, where waterfalls plunge thunderously into the depths and the ice of the Pitztal Glacier glistens white even in summer – that is where the Hexenkessel climbing area is situated.
The Hexenkessel near Plangeroß in the Pitztal is not a beginners’ area, nor is it the ideal place to make the transition from the climbing gym to the crag. Instead, it is a real playground for experienced climbers who are particularly at home on routes from grade 7 upwards.
To warm up and get used to the gneiss, ‘Wild Men Weekend’ in the Platysma sector is a great option. Those who want to get straight into the thick of it will find steep crack and dihedral climbing on the three-star route ‘Ezechiel’ (6c). BAM.
Text: Susa Schreiner
The starting point is the car park for the Kaunergrathütte and the Rüsselsheimer Hütte near Plangeroß, almost at the end of the valley. From there, follow the path leading up to the Rüsselsheimer Hütte, which perches high up like an eagle’s nest. After just under 30 minutes, you leave the hut path: one more cairn, a few raspberries by the side of the path in late summer – and suddenly the ‘Hexenkessel’ comes into view.
The spot is peaceful; all you can hear is the murmur of the water. The view stretches as far as the Pitztal Glacier, towards the Kaunergrathütte and the Watzespitze.
Tip: The access is short and straightforward – so do pack plenty of provisions. The panoramic picnic after the climb is well worth the extra weight.
The area is divided into a ‘lower’ and an ‘upper storey’. The lower storey, in particular, promises a full day’s climbing with plenty of outstanding routes and a meadow at the foot of the wall. The sectors include Platysma, Hauptsektor, Pitzexpress, Genusswand and Panoramawand.
Cracks, dihedrals, slabs, ledges, overhangs: climbing on gneiss is varied – and often challenging. More than half of the routes are graded at French grades 7 and 8.
The walls face south-west. On hot summer days, it can therefore get quite warm even at 2,000 metres. Late spring, early summer and autumn are ideal. Please note: in spring, it is essential to check the avalanche conditions.
As well as the challenging ‘Hexenkessel’, the Pitztal valley, some 40 kilometres long, offers rock climbing for beginners, families, bouldering enthusiasts and fans of high-alpine scenery. An overview can be found in ‘Pitztal – Climbing along 40 Kilometres’.
Best time to visit the valley: depending on snow conditions, from late spring until the first snowfall in autumn. In spring, be aware of avalanche risks on via ferratas and in higher-altitude areas such as the Hexenkessel.
Tips & Safety
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