Pitztal – 40 kilometres of climbing distance

A summer holiday in the Pitztal means: climbing and bouldering crags par excellence – spread across the valley’s 40-kilometre length. What’s more, the Pitztal is one of the wildest and most beautiful side valleys in the Eastern Alps and boasts a wonderfully family-friendly atmosphere.
Kletterer im Gneis des Klettergebiets Hexenkessel in Plangeroß im Pitztal
Kletterer im Gneis des Klettergebiets Hexenkessel in Plangeroß im Pitztal

A heart of stone – and one for families

A climbing holiday in thePitztal – it might go something like this: on cool days, make the gneiss glow in the Hexenkessel; on hot days, ‘dive down’ into the Unterwelt Rock Climbing Area. In almost any weather, redefine Grimm’s fairy tale ‘Hansel and Gretel’ with the kids in the Mandlers Boden bouldering area.

For anyone who has so far thought of the Pitztal as ‘nothing more than’ Ice Climbing in winter and Mountaineering in summer, let us reveal this: this side valley of the Inn Valley has much more to offer. It has a heart of rock and a heart for families.

The Pitztal is diverse: the upper part of the valley, better known as the ‘Äußeres Pitztal’, is wide, with gently sloping hillsides and equally gentle ridges. The villages of Arzl, Wald, Wenns and Jerzens, with their undulating terrain, form a picturesque low-mountain landscape. The broad high plateau of the Pillerhöhe is also enchanting – and at the same time forms the link to theKaunertal. As you drive further into the valley, the mountains draw closer, the valley narrows and closes in to form a striking ‘V’. Welcome to the ‘Inner Pitztal’, with its famous Wildspitze, whose eternal ice sparkles in the sun.

Spanning 40 kilometres, the valley reveals its many different facets, and the outdoor activities on offer are correspondingly varied: from leisurely walks to high-altitude alpine tours, from waterfall trails to sunbathing – not to mention the many trail running routes, including the Pitztal Glacier Trail Maniac (95 kilometres and around 6,500 metres of altitude!). With its family-friendly atmosphere and the seclusion of its mountain landscape, the Pitztal is considered one of the most beautiful and wildest side valleys in the Eastern Alps – suitable for ambitious professional climbers as well as beginners.

Text: Susa Schreiner

Hexenkessel – A wild ride for ambitious gneiss climbers

In the hamlet of Plangeroß, where the mountains rise steeply on either side of the road, close enough to touch, and the water from the many waterfalls plunges thunderously into the depths, lies the ‘Hexenkessel’ climbing area. The gneiss massif is not a beginners’ area, nor is it the ideal place to make the transition from the indoor climbing centre to outdoor rock for the first time. However, it is a real Terrain Park for experienced climbers who are comfortable with routes rated at Level of Difficulty 7 or higher.

To warm up and get used to the rock conditions, impressive routes such as ‘Wild Men Weekend’ in the Platysma sector beckon. Those who want to get straight into the thick of things will find a dream 6c route in the 3-star ‘Ezechiel’: steep, powerful crack and dihedral climbing. After that, excellent routes in Levels of Difficulty 9 and 10 await.

  • Routes: just under 90
  • Altitude: just over 2,000 m
  • Exposure: south and west
  • Tip: on hot days, make the most of the cool morning hours – from early afternoon, spread out your picnic blanket, enjoy the view towards the Pitztal Glacier Ski Resort and let the sound of the waterfall ‘enchant’ you
Climbers on the gneiss at the “Hexenkessel” crag in Plangeroß in the Pitztal

Dive into the Pitztal ‘underworld’ on hot days

36 degrees and it’s set to get even hotter …? Then it’s time to head down to the ‘Unterwelt’ Rock Climbing Area and strike a deal with the ‘Mafia’ – that’s the name of one of the climbing sectors. The rocks lie deep in the forest, the trees act as a natural air-conditioning system, and the orientation is just right too: north-east.

However, the “Unterwelt” is not for climbing beginners either: the routes are rated tough, at least up to Level of Difficulty 7a, and demand full concentration and muscular effort right from the very first move. Otherwise, though, it’s a top summer climbing area which, with over 50 routes, promises plenty of fulfilling days spent climbing.

Bouldering at Mandlers Boden – rock climbing fun for all ages

On holiday with the kids, and they’d rather go for Bouldering than go for a swim? Then head straight to the ‘Mandlers Boden’ Bouldering area. The boulders are scattered far and wide throughout the dense forest, interspersed with pretty clearings that invite you to relax – or spark the kids’ imagination. Why? Because, for example, two easy boulders are named ‘Hansel’ and ‘Gretel’. It’s a chance to give Grimm’s classic fairy tales a whole new twist.

A total of 55 boulders, offering over 170 ‘problems’ with Levels of Difficulty ranging from 3c to 8a, are waiting to be conquered. And after Bouldering, perhaps it’s time for a swim or a campfire, as the site offers designated barbecue areas. When the flames dance into the evening sky, the logs crackle in the heat and the night birds begin to sing, it’s an experience for young and old alike.

Boulders on a boulder in the ‘Mandlers Boden’ bouldering area in the Pitztal

Soft rock – a big hit in the Pitztal valley

The Pitztal valley not only offers first-class sport climbing areas for highly experienced climbers, but also shows its ‘gentler’ side – in the form of rewarding beginner-friendly and Family friendly Rock Climbing Areas:

The Kaunergrathütte in particular is an adventure for the whole family: high up in the mountains, an Overnight Stay at a Mountain Lodge and climbing all in one.

Post-climb and Culinary Experience

There’s an incredible number of Mountain Lodges/Huts and alpine pastures in the Pitztal valley – and with them, plenty of opportunities to round off the day in style after a spot of climbing, Bouldering or a via ferrata tour. A lovely idea for a rest day: a coffee and cake break at Café 3440 on the Pitztal Glacier Ski Resort. Refreshing temperatures and views of some 50 three-thousand-metre peaks, accompanied by coffee and cake – and because the panorama is so stunning, perhaps a glass of white wine before heading back down into the valley.

Those who like to cook for themselves whilst on holiday will be delighted by the long list of local producers in the Pitztal: from organic eggs and potatoes to home-distilled Swiss stone pine schnapps.

Café 3440 on the Pitztal Glacier Ski Resort with views of the surrounding three-thousand-metre peaks

Everything – except climbing

From easy walks to high-altitude alpine hikes, anything is possible in the Pitztal – not to mention Mountain Biking, jogging and, above all, trail running. Water lovers will also adore the valley: the Stillebach Water Worlds feature a swimming pond complete with a large sunbathing lawn and prime views of the Glacier Ski Resort, whilst the Rifflsee beckons with a raft trip. Or how about a visit to the Steinbock Centre, a ride on the Zirben-Car or a bungee jump? The XP Adventure Park in Jerzens sends you soaring over a gorge on the Flying Fox in its high ropes course at a height of around 50 metres.

A real gem for animal lovers of all ages is the Tiefental Alpine Pasture in the inner Pitztal valley. From Piösmes (in the municipality of St. Leonhard), it’s a one- to one-and-a-half-hour walk along a shaded forest path to the Alpine Pasture. The charming little cottage is idyllically situated in a forest of larch and Swiss stone pine trees, with a babbling mountain stream right outside the Mountain Lodge/Hut. Quacking ducks, curious goats, fluffy hares and magnificent Haflinger horses frolic up here in the summer retreat.

The Tiefentalalm in the larch and Swiss stone pine forest in the inner Pitztal
A raft on the swimming pond at the Stillebach Water Worlds in the Pitztal

Accommodation

“Climb in, climb out” – a tribute to winter’s ‘ski-in, ski-out’ hotels can be found at the Biohotel Stillebach, which is situated next to the Kletterstadl Stillebach. The Kletterstadl is a bouldering centre with great attention to detail and over 90 bouldering routes covering all Levels of Difficulty.

If you’re looking for that traditional mountain hut atmosphere, book a bed in one of the many Alpinist Association Mountain Lodges, such as the Kaunergrathütte. A night’s stay at the Tiefentalalm is great for families with young children. And in Jerzens, at the head of the Pitztal valley, there’s a campsite for those who enjoy staying in tents or campervans.

The Kaunergrathütte at 2,817 metres in the Pitztal

The spots featured in this article

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