5 Crags in Imst and the Ötztal valley

There’s hardly anywhere else where the crags are as close together as in the Tirolean Oberland. Five recommendations between Tarrenz and Längenfeld – from family-friendly crags to steep hidden gems.
Climbers on the ‘Bausparen’ route at the Oetzerau Crag
Climbers on the ‘Bausparen’ route at the Oetzerau Crag

Deluxe Crag density

Nowhere else is the concentration of Crags as high as in the Tirolean Oberland. In the Imst outdoor region in particular, there are rocks in abundance.

We’d like to introduce you to one Crag in the Imst region and four in theÖtztal – for beginners, Families and anyone who likes a steep climb.

Text: Matthias Bader

Imst Outdoor Region: Tarrenz / Walchenbach

The Tarrenz / Walchenbach crag is perfect for beginners and families: there are plenty of easy routes with short distances between bolts. Thanks to its south-facing aspect, the wall dries out very quickly after rain.

At a glance:

  • 31 routes, distances ranging from 6 to 15 m
  • Difficulty grades 3 to 8
  • Family friendly, route guide board, many routes signposted at the start
  • a beautifully laid-out picnic area

Ötztal: Oetz

The Oetz Crag is a great spot for both beginners and advanced climbers. The left-hand section offers plenty of easy routes – perfect for your first few metres of rock climbing or your first lead climbs. The ‘Zwillingsriss’ on the right-hand side of the wall is a favourite amongst advanced climbers.

At a glance:

  • 39 routes, distances of 5 to 35 m
  • Difficulty grades 3 to 7
  • Family friendly
Climber at the Oetz crag in the Ötztal valley

Oetzerau: the hidden gem for the strong

If you drive a short distance from Oetz towards Kühtai, you’ll find the excellent Oetzerau Crag tucked away in the woods. As the rock face isn’t visible from the road, it took a while before the first routes were bolted. Long an insider’s tip amongst the Ötztal climbing community, it is now known far beyond the valley.

There is one downside, however: anyone who isn’t comfortable with at least a grade 7 – or better still, a grade 8 – on the French scale won’t find any routes here. An example of the difficulty level is ‘Bausparen’ (7b+). Information and topography can be found in the Ötztal climbing guide.

Tumpen and Oberried: the crowd favourites

The Tumpen | Engelswand and Längenfeld | Oberried crags are arguably the most popular in the whole of the Ötztal valley – and rightly so: there’s virtually no access, a flat meadow at the start, and routes covering all Levels of Difficulty. Added to this is the perfect combination: Tumpen faces west, whilst Oberried faces east. So, depending on the temperature, the season and how you feel, you can choose between sun or shade.

At a glance:

  • Tumpen | Engelswand: 73 routes, 6 to 40 m long, difficulty 3 to 8
  • Längenfeld | Oberried: 143 routes, 6 to 30 m long, difficulty 3 to 8, family friendly

Tips for your day off

Even on days when you’re not climbing, there’s no chance of getting bored in the Ötztal:

  • Relax: at the Aquadome thermal spa.
  • Action: at Area 47 at the entrance to the valley – from wakeboarding and water slides to a high ropes course.
  • Natural spectacle: from the Starting Point in Umhausen, it’s a leisurely half-hour hike to the Stuibenfall, Tirol’s highest waterfall. If you fancy it, you can continue hiking along the Panoramaweg trail past the waterfall. Before that, it’s worth making a detour to the village of Ötzidorf.
  • Swimming: The idyllically situated Piburger See is one of the warmest swimming lakes in Tirol.

Getting there and accommodation

  • By car: via the A12 Inntal motorway, take the Ötztal exit.
  • Public transport: Most crags are also accessible by public transport – take the train to Ötztal station, then continue by bus into the valley.
  • Accommodation: There’s something to suit every budget in the Ötztal. Information on getting there and accommodation is available from Ötztal Tourism.

The crags featured in this article

  • Tarrenz / Walchenbach

    Difficulty:difficulty: 3 - 8Place:Tarrenz / Outdoorregion Imstroutes:31 routes
  • Oetz

    Difficulty:difficulty: 3 - 7Place:Oetz / Ötztalroutes:39 routes
    To the climbing area: Oetz
  • Tumpen | Engelswand

    Difficulty:difficulty: 3 - 8Place:Umhausen / Ötztalroutes:73 routes
  • Längenfeld | Oberried

    Difficulty:difficulty: 3 - 8Place:Längenfeld / Ötztalroutes:143 routes

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