The climbing meccas with their throngs of pilgrims are to be found elsewhere in Tirol – for the summer, the Arlberg can actually still be described as an ‘insider’s tip’. And it’s on hot summer’s days that you’ll be happiest here: either far down and deep inside the gorge, or right up high with a truly magnificent panoramic view.
Text: Simon Schöpf
Anyone who sets off into the Schnanner Klamm with a rope and quickdraws feels one thing above all else: plenty and plenty of energy. Over millions of years, the torrent has done a remarkable job of cutting through the rock and creating an ideal playground for us climbers. Even the access through the narrow gorge is spectacular – rock as far as the eye can see.
Inside, an ideal sport-climbing area awaits, with 42 routes covering all Levels of Difficulty. The very easy grade 3 routes are still outside the gorge and are ideal for beginners; further inside, climbers can find routes up to French grade 7 to test their skills. All in all, it’s a place with plenty of character – and the wild water as its defining feature.
Let’s start by singing the praises of another well-known hidden gem: the Darmstädter Mountain Lodge/Hut serves the best dumplings in the world. Yes, in the world. And please bear that in mind as motivation when you hop on your Mountain Bike in St. Anton and have a good 1,000 metres of altitude gain ahead of you. It’s a long haul.
However you make it to the top, the impressive high-mountain cirque is brimming with climbing opportunities. Around 70 single-pitch routes are scattered across seven Rock Climbing Areas, and the rugged rock face behind the Mountain Lodge/Hut is perfect for multi-pitch climbing – such as the eastern Faselfadspitze with its seven rewarding routes in prime rock, with a distance of up to 150 metres.
It’s almost a piece of Via Ferrata/Iron Way history: the Arlberg Via Ferrata/Iron Way was, alongside the Martinswand Via Ferrata/Iron Way, the very first in Tirol. The route is correspondingly spectacular – running constantly along the ridge, with the decisive advantage that the panoramic views on both sides are fantastic.
However, the via ferrata should by no means be underestimated: its Level of Difficulty of D is at the upper end of the scale, and the exposure and distance make the ascent a true alpine challenge. The descent from the Weißschrofenspitze is also quite a challenge in its own right. But for those who are up to the task: it doesn’t get any better than this.
Tips & Safety
Would you like to know more about climbing safety? Click here for our safety tips.
