The Best of Achensee
The best limestone in Tirol? Even top international climbers are now whispering about it in the Rofan Mountains, high above Lake Achensee.
Difficulty:difficulty: 4 - 8c+Place:Eben am Achensee / Achensee
For a long time, the Rofan Mountains – squeezed in between the renowned climbing areas of the Karwendel Mountains and the Wilder Kaiser – were merely a Finishing Point for adventurous climbers who fancied tackling the crumbly, damp north-facing rock faces.
It wasn’t until the turn of the millennium that the area’s full potential was recognised. These days, top international climbers say that the Rofan boasts the best limestone in Tirol – a quality otherwise found only in the south of France.
The cliffs on the picturesque Rofan Plateau are currently enjoying a second renaissance: the location is back in vogue, with new routes and Rock Climbing Areas being developed. Particularly in summer, when the heat is sweltering down below, the cliffs at a good 2,000 metres are an ideal destination. And once the climbing is done, the notoriously cool Achensee beckons with refreshments and gelato.
Text: Simon Schöpf
1. Paradise
. Here you’ll find neither apples nor snakes, but water-eroded, overhanging rock formations in surroundings that could scarcely be more idyllic. That should be enough to make this a personal climbing paradise for anyone. You’ll have to earn your ticket to this rocky paradise, though: the most rewarding routes are graded 7. and 8. on the French scale.
2. Edelweißwand
. Although the wall is more grey than white, it is certainly magnificent: vertical, challenging climbing dominates the Rock Climbing Area, with tricky sections to be found on every route.
In stark contrast to this are the alpine north-face routes on the Hochiss – the highest peak in the Rofan, reachable from the wall in just over 30 minutes: old, worn pitons set far apart. That was the Rofan of yesteryear.
3. Streichkopf
A rock arena at 2,100 metres above sea level that immediately catches the eye when hiking from the Dalfazalm to the Hochiss. An absolutely top-class area – though, due to its north-west-facing aspect, the Streichkopf doesn’t get any sun until late afternoon.
1. Klobenjoch
You could almost feel a little daunted by so much superb rock. Or spend too long agonising over where exactly to start. One thing’s for sure: when it comes to rock quality, this south face is in a league of its own. Whether you’re heading up the steep ‘Eiskeller’ for a challenging sport climbing route or tackling one of the classic Multi-Pitch Climbing routes on theKlobenjoch – it’s well worth it.
The panoramic views are hard to beat: the routes on the Rotspitz may not have the longest distance, but they are perhaps the most spectacular. The view down to Lake Achensee is unrivalled, and the short access from the Rofan cable car adds to the experience. You’ll be in your element here.
The area around Lake Achensee encompasses not only the Rofan but also part of the Karwendel Mountains. The routes on the Lamsenspitze are the perfect introduction to the world of Multi-Pitch Climbing. It’s just a 30-minute walk from the Lamsenhütte – and here you feel a world away from everything.
Spieljoch, Haidachstellwand, Hochiss, Rosskopf and Seekarlspitze: all these peaks can be climbed in one go on a long Via Ferrata/Iron Way circuit – welcome to the 5-Peak Via Ferrata.
Tips & Safety
Would you like to know more about safety when climbing? Click here for our safety tips.
