Sonnenplatten Scharnitz: 60 routes for families and beginners

Four sectors, grippy Wetterstein limestone and more Easy routes than almost anywhere else in Tirol.
A female climber on a route at the Sonnenplatten Rock Climbing Area in Scharnitz
A female climber on a route at the Sonnenplatten Rock Climbing Area in Scharnitz

A Rock Climbing Area as a labour of love

60 routes ranging from Level of Difficulty 3 to Level of Difficulty 8 (UIAA), all neatly bolted: the Sonnenplatten in Scharnitz invite families, beginners and those looking to improve their climbing skills to climb on the grippy Wetterstein limestone.

Behind the refurbishment is Heinz Zak – an extreme climber, mountain photographer and resident of Scharnitz. He lives just 150 metres as the crow flies from the Rock Climbing Area and was determined not to let anything happen here, as the existing routes had not been refurbished for decades.

Text: Susa Schreiner

A female climber on a route at the Sonnenplatten Rock Climbing Area in Scharnitz

Four sectors, 60 routes – each climbed twice

The routes weren’t simply bolted: Zak climbed each one at least twice and marked where the bolts should go. He was keen to create beautiful climbing lines – and to ensure safety.

“Climbing fosters courage and mental strength, and the joy you feel when you’ve achieved something, when you’ve pushed yourself beyond your limits – that’s unique,” says Zak. Failure is also part of the experience.

More easy routes than anywhere else

It was important to Zak to undertake the restoration work himself and to bolt new routes that were suitable for beginners and children. The result is a collection of routes that are rewarding even at the lower Levels of Difficulty. According to him, there is no other Rock Climbing Area in Tirol with so many easy routes.

He has dedicated a particularly lovely 4a to his wife Geli: anyone wishing to climb it should look for the route ‘Schatzi’ in the ‘Löschzwerg Mitte’ sector. Right next to it is ‘Sweety’ – which Peter Janschek, who helped with the rockwork, dedicated to his wife.

Heinz Zak at the Sonnenplatten Rock Climbing Area in Scharnitz

Chilling out, lazing about, topping up your water

As well as climbing, Zak always placed great importance on socialising – and you can really see that reflected in the area. A large meadow with a chill-out area invites the youngsters to play and let off steam, whilst slacklines are available for them to try out and practise on.

  • Chill-out area right at the foot of the wall
  • Slacklines to have a go on
  • Stone fountain to cool off and top up your water bottle
  • Toilet block – solves the vexing question of where to go

The spot featured in this article

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