Anyone familiar with the Mieminger Kette often describes it with one word: loose. This makes the surprise at the Marillensteig all the greater – solid rock, well-secured and a joy to climb.
The route was established by veteran climber Reinhold Scherer, together with Susanne and Hansjörg Scherer, in November 2008, at the same time as the more difficult neighbouring route, ‘Adventurepark’. The line runs along the so-called ‘Fischplatten’ beneath the Grießspitze.
Text: Patrick Trois
From Telfs, take Mieminger Straße to Obermieming. The best places to park are at the Forstmeile or at the lower Stöttl Bridge. From there, cycle – it takes considerably longer on foot – past the upper Stöttl Bridge and the Boaslig Bridge to the end of the gravel track. Then follow the stream, first to the right, then to the left, past waterfalls until you reach the foot of the cliff. If you look carefully, you can already see the bolts from below.
Please note: The approach is impressive but requires sure-footedness – there are Grade 2 sections, and a more difficult passage is secured with a safety rope. In the past, the route led across a snowfield beneath the face. Its condition varies from year to year; hollowed-out snowfields are dangerous – check the conditions in advance.
The route runs across very compact, flat slabs and, in the upper section, through some really fun water grooves. It’s a playful climb, but requires good footwork and a feel for the rock – you hardly need any bicep or finger strength. Well-protected with bolts and plenty of extra pitons for route-finding, the Marillensteig is an ideal route for leisure climbers with multi-pitch climbing experience.
For those seeking a greater challenge: right next to it, the ‘Adventurepark’ (7+) runs for around 600 metres across the face. Topos and information on both routes are available from Kletterzentrum Innsbruck.
Descent: After the final pitch, head diagonally uphill to the right for around 200 to 300 metres until you reach the marked descent path from the Mitterspitze. Follow this until you emerge from the forest, then turn right and walk back through the stream bed to the forest track. Here too, sure-footedness is essential. Alternatively, you can abseil down using the bolted anchors.
Equipment: 70-metre single rope or half ropes, 10 quickdraws, helmet, a suitable belay device for the chosen rope, and sturdy footwear for the approach and descent.
More tips for getting started on longer routes: An introduction to multi-pitch climbing on the Martinswand.
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