Kaunertal: Gailwand, Fernergries and the Gepatschhaus

Granite at 1,800 metres, a children’s climbing area further up the Glacier Ski Resort – and a Mountain Lodge/Hut that is a listed building.
A female climber on the ‘Joshua Tree Classic’ route on the Gailwand in the Kaunertal
A female climber on the ‘Joshua Tree Classic’ route on the Gailwand in the Kaunertal

Climbing in the realm of the ibexes

The Gailwand Rock Climbing Area, situated below the Gepatsch reservoir, offers granite climbing in a landscape you won’t forget in a hurry.

Even the drive through the Kaunertal towards the Rock Climbing Area is impressive. The Access leads through a mountain forest: short, a little steep, but absolutely enchanting. After a good 15 minutes, you reach the foot of the cliff, where the vegetation towers up as densely as in a jungle.

Text: Susa Schreiner

A female climber on the ‘Joshua Tree Classic’ route on the Gailwand in the Kaunertal

An overview of the Gailwand

A superb granite area at an altitude of just over 1,800 metres. The routes offer dihedral, crack and wall climbing – though the rock remains wet for a long time after periods of rain.

  • Routes: 30
  • Difficulty: 5c+ to 8a+
  • Exposure: west
  • Access: around 15 minutes through the mountain forest

Please note – wildlife sanctuary: Climbing is prohibited between 15. October and 1. May.

The Gailwand is of limited interest to beginners, as there are few truly easy routes. Families with young children won’t find much to enjoy here either – the mountain forest slopes right up to the face. Incidentally, the wooded area around the Gailwand is also popular with bouldering enthusiasts.

A child’s paradise: the Fernergries

If you’re out and about with children or beginners, give the Gailwand a miss and carry on up the Glacier Road for a good while longer – all the way to the Fernergries Rock Climbing Area. The rock has been shaped by glacial ice.

Right nearby is the Schmetterlingsplatz, with benches for resting and having a snack. And a survey marker shows where the glacier still stood in 1857 – a silent, rather striking reminder of just how much ice has disappeared since then.

Children climbing at the Fernergries Rock Climbing Area in the Kaunertal valley
View across the Gepatsch Reservoir in the Kaunertal valley

Gepatschhaus: a listed building at 1,900 metres

Beyond the reservoir, the path winds steeply upwards to the next alpine pasture – and it’s well worth stopping for a break at theGepatschhaus. The Alpinist Association Mountain Lodge is just a few minutes’ walk from the road, and the view back towards the reservoir is simply stunning.

  • Built in 1873 as the first German Alpinist Association Mountain Lodge in Austria
  • The wooden chapel was added in 1895
  • Both have been listed as historic monuments since 2013

It’s well worth popping into the chapel, just as it is to stop for a drink on the terrace. If you want to stay up there, it’s best to book a room at the Gepatschhaus straight away – the twin rooms, in particular, are a feast for the eyes.

A quick side note for film fans: Daniel Craig took part in a car chase in the car park area near the Gepatschhaus for the Bond film Spectre. There’s no trace of it left to be seen – but now you know.

Allow plenty of time: one day isn’t enough for the Kaunertal. The climbs and the sights along the Glacier Road are far too varied. If you want to save on the toll, tackle the road by E-Bike, on a Classic bike or on foot – though it will take correspondingly longer.

The spots featured in this article

  • Gailwand Rock Climbing Area | Kaunertal

    Difficulty:difficulty: 5 - 8Place:Kaunertal / Nauders - Tiroler Oberland - Kaunertalroutes:30 routes
  • Fernergries | Kaunertal

    Difficulty:difficulty: 5a - 5cPlace:Kaunertal / Nauders - Tiroler Oberland - Kaunertal

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