He has climbed a 9c route – that’s the highest the scale goes; there are only three routes in this category worldwide. On top of that, a 9A boulder – again, that’s the absolute limit. Six gold World Championship titles – an unrivalled record – plus the overall World Cup victories. How many exactly? “Twenty-seven? Something like that.” And there’s already an Olympic medal hanging in his cupboard at home. In short: Jakob Schubert is one of the most successful climbers of his generation – or is he perhaps even the most successful?
The 33-year-old from Innsbruck is an all-rounder, and his goal for the 2024 Olympics in Paris is clear: gold. The fact that he is one of the oldest in the field is one thing – but he proved he is in top form in June 2024 by winning the home World Cup in Innsbruck. He had secured the 2023 World Championship title in Bern – and with it his Olympic place – early on: “That was a huge relief, because from that point on I was able to devote myself to my rock climbing projects in a much more relaxed manner.”
He set about his work in a relaxed manner: in September 2023, in Norway’s gigantic Flatanger Cave, he cracked a project by Adam Ondra, christened it “B.I.G.” and graded it 9c – live via a YouTube stream with Hannes Mair from Stubai (alpsolut pictures). In December 2023, he followed that up with “Alphane”, a 9A boulder. His verdict at the age of 33: “I’m in the best shape of my life!”
Good prospects for the big goal. Unlike in Tokyo, where climbing made its Olympic debut, there will be two medal events in Paris instead of one. “That’s definitely a huge step forward, because the combined event in Tokyo was utter chaos – you simply can’t compare speed climbing and lead climbing at all. … But we climbers can’t be truly satisfied until we have three separate medal events: lead climbing, Bouldering and speed.”
There’s just so much incredible rock to discover everywhere.
As much as Jakob is a competition machine, he’s just as happy when the Olympic hustle and bustle is over – then he’ll have time for his rock climbing projects again. “And that’s exactly why I love climbing so much: it never gets boring, because every move is different; no two holds are the same.”
This is where one of the biggest challenges lies: “In the last 20 years alone, during which I’ve been climbing intensively, the number of climbers has skyrocketed, particularly in indoor climbing. … At the same time, when I’m out on the rock, I can see that all these people are having an impact on the natural environment. More people, more impact.” This is precisely where the “Climbing with Respect” campaign by Climbers Paradise Tirol comes in – because climbing can only continue to grow in a way that is compatible with nature. “It’s very important to teach all the new climbers our unwritten rules: to leave nature as you found it, to stick to the access routes, and to respect the designated car parks. But the most important thing is definitely common sense,” says Jakob Schubert.
There’s plenty to discover in his climbing home, Climbers Paradise Tirol, too. Last year, he opened ‘The Flame’ (9b) in the Zillertal – one of the most difficult routes in the country – which he describes as ‘one of the most beautiful routes I’ve ever climbed’. Is there also 9c potential in Tirol? “An incredible number of factors simply have to come together for a 9c to be climbable at all. But who knows, maybe there is one somewhere after all! You keep hearing about new top climbing areas, particularly from the Unterland region.” That leaves the crucial question: limestone or granite? “Granite,” smiles Jakob, “the holds are so beautifully defined, nothing breaks off – it’s simply an aesthetic rock.” His favourite areas are in the Ötztal and the Zillertal. “If there’s a 9c in Tirol, it’s probably on limestone.” We’ll have to wait and see.
Text: Simon Schöpf
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