Hardly any other city manages so effortlessly to strike a balance between urban flair and climbing culture, between the Nordkettenbahn and a sushi bar.
The capital of Tirol and Austria’s fifth-largest city is the ideal playground for climbing enthusiasts who don’t want to miss out on urban amenities such as art, culture, fine dining and nightlife. One of Europe’s most modern indoor climbing centres harmoniously rounds off the offers. An overview of climbing hotspots, trendy meeting places and cultural treasures in the Innsbruck region – all of which you simply must see, climb and experience.
Text: Susa Schreiner
Ehnbachklamm, Martinswand, Nordkette: three evocative names that are an integral part of the Innsbruck climbing scene. The Martinswand in particular – a mighty, historic wall close to the valley, ten minutes’ drive west of Innsbruck – holds great significance within the climbing community. Sport climbing history was already being made here back in the 1980s and 1990s, for example on routes such as ‘Dschungelfieber’ (8c/+). The standard was already very high back then and has lost none of its character since.
But don’t worry: the crag is extensive and offers plenty of rewarding sectors even for moderate climbing enthusiasts, such as the ÖAV Rock Climbing Area. A quick visit to the “Dschungelbuch” sector should nevertheless be included in your plans – there’s a good chance of meeting top-level and world-class climbers here, especially during the cooler months. This is because the Martinswand faces south: anyone hoping to tackle the ledges and tiny holds successfully needs cool temperatures and a light breeze.
A fantastic summer climbing area that entices with plenty of easy routes: the Ehnbachklamm. Even just the access through the gorge – where the damp air caresses your skin and provides a refreshing cool on hot summer’s days – is an experience in itself. The base of the cliff is flat, and the stream promises to keep your feet cool – what more could you want on a hot summer’s day? Well, perhaps an ice cream in the city centre after a successful day’s climbing.
What would Innsbruck be without its Golden Roof and the Nordkette? This imposing mountain range dominates and defines the cityscape. Climbing here is a must – and can easily be combined with a stroll through the city: it’s just a five-minute walk from the Golden Roof to the Valley station of the Nordkettenbahnen.
If you like, you can spice up the walk to the cable car with a bit of culture, pay a visit to Domplatz or stroll past the magnificent imperial Hofburg – culture on the go, so to speak. Also worth mentioning from an architectural perspective are the futuristic-looking Nordketten stations designed by the star architect Zaha Hadid, who passed away in 2016.
From the Seegrube top station, it takes around 30 minutes to reach the Kletterarena Seegrube, which offers over 30 routes featuring superb crack climbing on solid limestone – whilst the city lies at your feet.
Sundowner time on the Inn: armed with cool drinks and sunglasses, head to the Inn Promenade or Landhausplatz. This is where the people of Innsbruck gather when the weather is fine, creating a Mediterranean atmosphere. Alternatively: chill out in the Hofgarten and watch the colourful hustle and bustle from the lawn.
City flair also means a medley of culinary delights. Innsbruck offers everything a major city should: from Asian fusion cuisine at ‘Woosabi’ to fine Israeli cuisine at ‘Hapoel’ (book a table) and ‘Wilderin’, which serves regional Tirolean specialities with a modern twist. Food trucks such as “Woodys Schmankerlkiste” and sumptuous culinary delights from the market hall beckon between climbing sessions.
A stroll through the Old Town is an absolute must during any stay in Innsbruck. Start in front of the Golden Roof, and from there stroll through the Gothic arcades towards Maria-Theresien-Straße. This grand boulevard is perfect for a leisurely spot of shopping and a cappuccino in one of the many cafés.
The Hofkirche is also well worth a visit: there, 28 larger-than-life bronze figures stand around the empty tomb of Emperor Maximilian I – one of the most magnificent imperial tombs in Europe. The Imperial Hofburg, right next door, ranks – alongside the Vienna Hofburg and Schönbrunn Palace – as one of Austria’s three most significant cultural buildings.
In Innsbruck, there is accommodation to suit every need, from upmarket hotels to bed and breakfasts. The ‘Kasperhof’, for example – a certified climbing accommodation in the Innsbruck region – offers tastefully and modernly furnished apartments. From here, many climbing spots and the city centre can be reached on foot, by bike or by public transport.
Those who want to experience the city but would prefer to sleep in the countryside will find what they’re looking for at the ‘glamping’ campsite at Lake Natterer: as well as pitches for vans, tents and motorhomes, you can rent a wood lodge, complete with a partially covered panoramic terrace and barbecue. Add to that a few laps in Lake Natter – and your holiday is perfect.
Anyone travelling to Innsbruck should take a look at the ‘Innsbruck Card’s’ offers beforehand: it allows you to use local public transport free of charge, and even includes a gondola ride – for example, on the Nordkettenbahn. The card is available for 24, 48 or 72 hours.
Prices and services are subject to change – in the year this article was originally published (2021), the cost of the Innsbruck Card started at 49 euros for 24 hours per adult. Please check the current terms and conditions directly with Innsbruck Tourism.
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