Imster Via Ferrata/Iron Way: 800 metres of climbing to the Maldonkopf

It’s been on the rock face since 1989, yet it’s not in the least bit old-school: this classic route on the 2,632-metre-high Maldonkopf combines Mountain biking, mountain walking and a steel cable – featuring a rope bridge, a 20-metre crux section and two Mountain Lodges/Huts to round off the day.
Blick auf Maldonkopf und Scharnitzköpfe
Blick auf Maldonkopf und Scharnitzköpfe

A prime example of a modern sports via ferrata

When the sweltering summer heat gives way to mild autumn temperatures, it’s time for south-facing climbs – such as the classic via ferrata on the 2,632-metre-high Maldonkopf in the Lechtal Alps.

The alpine via ferrata opened back in 1989, but it doesn’t feel ‘old-school’ in the slightest – quite the opposite, in fact. Following extensive refurbishment, the Imster Via Ferrata/Iron Way is regarded as a prime example of a modern Via Ferrata/Iron Way, without skimping on natural charm or technical climbing challenges.

However, even though the safety measures are exemplary, the following applies: prior alpine experience, sure-footedness on steep terrain, physical strength and via ferrata experience are essential to ensure the route becomes a dream rather than a struggle.

Text and photos: Susa Schreiner

Maldonkopf by fair means

Fancy a spot of mountain biking, hiking and via ferrata? Why not combine it all in a single day – including the thrill of reaching the summit and twice the fun at the huts.

From the car park of the Imster Uphill Facilities in Hoch-Imst, the route follows a wide track, initially downhill, then uphill via a few hairpin bends to theLatschenhütte (Signposting towards Linserhof; follow the meadows at the start). We leave the Mountain Lodge/Hut to our left and cycle a little further along the road to the Muttekopfhütte’s equipment cable car. From here, it’s time for the hiking section.

We follow the signs to the Muttekopfhütte – with a heavy heart, as we have to skip a break on the enchanting terrace. Instead, we’re greeted by lush green alpine meadows above, which glisten like emerald carpets in the morning dew, whilst the sheep peer out sleepily from beneath their woollen coats. At the Guggersattele, the view opens up to rugged peaks and steep cirques – and our destination for the day beckons from across the valley.

800 metres of climbing on a steel cable over steep ridges

The Imster Via Ferrata/Iron Way is ideal for purists: apart from the steel cable safety line, the route through the rock is very much in its natural state. This means: few climbing aids, plenty of classic footwork on the rock – which is surprisingly rough and, with its ledges and indentations, proves to be a climber’s delight. Comfortable climbing shoes are an advantage here and really give you that authentic climbing feel.

After some fairly steep sections that really make your arm muscles burn, there are plenty of lovely opportunities to catch your breath. A particular highlight: a wobbly rope bridge that promises a dizzying view and wobbly legs.

Female via ferrata climber on a steep section
Rope bridge on the Imster Via Ferrata

The crux: 20 metres vertical

The real crux of the climb is yet to come, and it soon looms into view with full force: a wall rising vertically for just under 20 metres.

“Am I supposed to climb that?” My hands are sweaty, my nerves on edge. So, I gather my strength once more and set off. And then comes the surprise: where it’s steepest, iron crampons come to the rescue and take the strain off my arm muscles. It’s still a struggle, though. The feeling of having conquered this section: immense pride.

A female via ferrata climber on the vertical key wall

Peaks: the Zugspitze massif and Mount Ortler

From here on, the summit cross isn’t far away – just a few more gentle climbs, then you’ll be standing at the top of the Maldonkopf. My heart’s racing again, this time with joy.

We’re the first ones at the summit on this glorious day; getting up early was well worth it. A magnificent panorama, including views of the Zugspitze massif and King Ortler. Against this backdrop, our snack tastes like a five-star meal.

Panorama from the summit of the Maldonkopf

Descent through the Engelkar

First along the ridge, then over stepped rocks and down another Via Ferrata/Iron Way towards Engelkar. Once we reach the coarse scree, our tired arms are finally relieved – but in the steep cirque, full concentration and sure-footedness are required once again.

Once we reach the meadow, well sheltered from any potential rockfall, we take off our helmets and empty out our boots. There was enough material in there to fill a child’s sandpit.

Descent via the Via Ferrata into the Engelkar

A stop-off at two rustic Mountain Lodges/Huts

We set off in high spirits towards theMuttekopfhütte and take a seat on the terrace. What a day – and what a brilliant way to round it off with a cool drink.

The walk back to our bikes is over in no time, the wind whipping past our faces. Head straight down into the valley now? No – we’d rather pay a visit to theLatschenhütte, which we cycled past earlier today. Dumplings with salad and apple strudel. Only then are we ready for the valley.

At a glance

  • Peak: Maldonkopf, 2,632 m, Lechtal Alps
  • Opened: 1989, extensively refurbished since then
  • Length: around 800 metres of climbing, south-facing
  • Character: few climbing aids, plenty of footholds on the rock – climbing shoes are well worth it
  • Highlights: exposed rope bridge, around 20-metre vertical crux section with iron crampons
  • Access: Mountain biking from Hoch-Imst to the equipment cable car, then on foot via the Muttekopfhütte and the Guggersattele
  • Descent: via the ridge and Via Ferrata/Iron Way into the Engelkar – sure-footedness on scree essential
  • Prerequisites: prior alpine experience, via ferrata experience, upper body strength
  • Best time: when the summer heat has subsided – the face is in the sun

It is best to check current conditions and any closures in advance with the tourist board or on the area’s website.

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