Bärenkopf crag at Lake Achensee: autumn sun and chocolate-bar routes

Compact limestone, well-defined lines and routes named Bounty, Mars and Snickers: the Bärenkopf crag in Maurach is accessible without a lift – and in late autumn it’s a sunny spot for the morning.
View from the Bärenkopf crag over Maurach and the Rofan mountains in autumn
View from the Bärenkopf crag over Maurach and the Rofan mountains in autumn

Something new on Tirol’s largest lake

Fantastic late-autumn weather and the urge to try something new: that’s what led us to Lake Achensee, Tirol’s largest lake.

For sport climbing, we chose the Bärenkopf crag in Maurach – partly because it’s accessible without a lift. The two of us set off from Innsbruck around midday and reached Lake Achensee quickly and easily.

Text: Eva Marthe

Parking and access: Don’t forget your helmet

The starting point is well signposted. You can park right next to the Karwendel Camping site – though the car park is quite small.

The access is quite a challenge: it’s a fairly gruelling 10-minute climb up winding paths to the lower sector. A sign warns of possible rockfall, so make sure to pack your helmet in your rucksack. On the plus side, the autumn atmosphere along the way is simply wonderful.

Climber with a backpack at the signpost to the Bärenkopf crag
Steep forest path in autumn leading to the Bärenkopf crag

Compact limestone, clean lines

We were thrilled right from the very first route: compact limestone, brilliant holds, and a surprising number of threads and holes. The rock is still rough and has hardly been worn smooth. The spacing between bolts is well chosen, the routes are logical – nothing stands in the way of a great climbing experience.

Climber topping out on a route at the Bärenkopf, with the rope running down the wall

Lower sector: the Johannis routes

In the lower sector, we counted one route graded 4, four graded 5 and one graded 6. We were particularly taken with the so-called ‘Johannis’ routes: there’s a fun surprise waiting right in the middle of the rock – but we won’t give any more away.

And then there’s the view: the vista stretches far across the Rofan range and down to Maurach. Only Lake Achensee itself remains hidden from view here.

Limestone wall and base of the wall in the lower sector of the Bärenkopf crag
View from the Bärenkopf crag over Maurach and the Rofan mountains in autumn

Upper sector: sweet sixes

Anyone who still has the strength and stamina can tackle the upper sector. During our visit, there were nine grade 6 routes waiting there – and they were actually called Bounty, Mars, Snickers and so on.

Wooden steps on the path to the upper sector of the Bärenkopf crag

At a glance: Bärenkopf crag

  • Location: above the Lärchenwiese in Maurach on Lake Achensee; accessible without a lift
  • Parking: small car park next to Karwendel Camping
  • Access: 10 to 15 minutes of steep uphill walking; helmet recommended
  • Routes: 24 sport climbing routes ranging from 4+ to 7a+, 8 to 35 metres long, spread across three sectors
  • Rock: compact limestone, south-east-facing wall
  • Protection: rebolted by Andreas and Thomas Nothdurfter, short distances between bolts

Our tip: In late autumn, the sun only shines here in the morning. So set off early – don’t do as we did and wait until around midday.

Have fun – Eva and Maggi

The crag featured in this article

  • Bärenkopf crag

    Difficulty:difficulty: 4 - 7Place:Eben am Achensee / Achenseeroutes:24 routes

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