5 lovely climbing spots for autumn

‘Rocktober’ and stable autumn weather: five sunny Rock Climbing Areas in Tirol, focusing on easy routes that look particularly stunning in autumn.
Sportklettern an der Grauwand im Rofan am Achensee
Sportklettern an der Grauwand im Rofan am Achensee

Rocktober: the best time of year for climbing

Autumn is – alongside spring, winter and summer – definitely my absolute favourite time of year. That’s down to the falling temperatures, the stable high-pressure systems, the endless views, the lower-set sun, the bright yellow larch forests, the ripe chestnuts, and the morning dew. Simply everything.

Text: Simon Schöpf

It’s no coincidence that October has earned itself the nickname ‘Rocktober’: there’s no better time for climbing. November can also be remarkably stable. Here’s a selection of Rock Climbing Areas with a focus on easy routes that are particularly stunning in autumn.

1. Grauwand Rock Climbing Area, Achensee

Once the summer holiday hikers have left, the light becomes softer and the sun warms you pleasantly once more – that’s the perfect time for the Grauwand! 37 routes ranging from 5c to 8a, all on perfect Rofan limestone, slightly overhanging and technically demanding. All the routes have recently been refurbished; the Grauwand is one of the most historic Rock Climbing Areas in the Rofan range by Lake Achensee.

2. Moosalm Rock Climbing Area, Ötztal

This idyllic spot at the foot of the Brunnenkogel, deep in theÖtztal valley, is beautiful at any time of year, but autumn gives it that certain something: the splashes of yellow from the changing larch trees, the south-west-facing aspect with its particularly long hours of sunshine – and the granite gneiss of exquisite Ötztal quality.

Climbing at the Moosalm in the upper Ötztal
An autumnal day’s climbing at the Moosalm in the Ötztal

3. Rock Climbing Areas on the Steinplatte

Autumn and the Steinplatte – a match made in heaven. Often still covered in snow in spring, mercilessly hot in summer, inaccessible in winter – but in autumn, the Steinplatte is perhaps the most beautiful climbing area far and wide. Why? Because on the south-facing slab walls at 1,700 metres above sea level, you’ll find perfect temperatures for climbing in a T-shirt, and your rubber grips the friction holds perfectly. Because you can look out far beyond the tree line into the Hohe Tauern. And because you can still enjoy a coffee at the Stallenalm after sunset.

The Steinplatte (in the Steinberge) is famous for its brilliant Multi-Pitch Climbing routes such as Minipalven or Abramakabra, with their rugged, water-eroded ‘Götterkalk’ – or for the ‘Wintergarten’, which, despite its name, is in superb condition in autumn and offers rewarding, Easy routes.

Slab climbing on the Steinplatte
A female climber on the Steinplatte

4. Wilderer Kanzel, Wilder Kaiser

Autumn is also the absolute prime time in theWilder Kaiser region. Alongside the popular Schleierwasserfall Rock Climbing Area, the lesser-known Rock Climbing Area at the Wilderer Kanzel is also ideal for a sunny autumn’s day thanks to its south-west-facing aspect. There are also interesting routes here for beginners, up to 25 metres in distance. You should, however, be prepared for a full day out: expect the access to take between one and one and a half hours – but you’re guaranteed to work up a sweat by the time you reach the wall, and the atmosphere is magnificent and secluded.

5. Morsbach Rock Climbing Area, Kufsteinerland

Further down the valley, you can stay at the Morsbach Rock Climbing Area in theKufsteinerland. Tucked away in the woods, you’ll still find some partial shade here in the lower sections of the routes, despite the sunny aspect – so you shouldn’t choose the coolest day of autumn. However, when the temperature is a pleasant 15 to 20 degrees, you can enjoy a lovely day’s climbing here. And because the Rock Climbing Area has a long history and the routes have been well-climbed, you’ll appreciate the cooler temperatures even on the easier routes.

An overview of the climbing spots

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