The Best of Steinberge: Sport Climbing & Multi-Pitch Climbing
The ‘Stoaberg’: There’s so much rock here that it wouldn’t even fit within a single federal state.
There’s so much rock here that it doesn’t even fit within a single federal state. The Loferer & Leogang Rocky Mountains stretch across the Tirol–Salzburg border region, and anyone who decides to visit the area will first of all be faced with a bit of a dilemma: Where to start? Rock as far as the eye can see: the Waidringer Steinplatte with its ultra-compact slab wall over there, the Breithorn with its nearly 40 (bolted!) pitches over there, and Rock Climbing Areas are scattered everywhere anyway.
In short: a gentle challenge. So it’s best to focus on one category at first: would you rather enjoy a leisurely spot of sport climbing, or spend the whole day on the crag tackling some ‘alpine’ routes? Both are excellent options here. Once you’ve made that decision, read on: we’ll introduce you to the best spots in the region. Which is quite a difficult task, as you can actually enjoy brilliant climbing almost anywhere here. Nevertheless: a ‘best of’ the Stoaberg!
You could write a whole book just about the Steinplatte (and why ‘could’ – local hero and avid route-setter Adi Stocker has done just that; his climbing guide to the Steinplatte comes highly recommended): from challenging Multi-Pitch Climbing routes to enjoyable sport climbing routes, you’ll find it all here. The one thing they all have in common: rock at its very best!
The Steinplatte is a seven-kilometre-long strip of reef limestone, with cliffs rising up to 200 metres high. Alongside the Multi-Pitch Climbing routes (see below), there are also numerous areas with a concentration ofsingle-pitch routes – commonly known as Rock Climbing Areas. Yet the Steinplatte still towers high above the valley, making it the ideal spot for the autumn months thanks to its wonderful sun exposure. On the other hand, you first have to get to the top, which is pleasantly straightforward either by Uphill Facilities or via the toll road. And then it’s just a stroll beneath the crags to your chosen route – sport climbers will be delighted to find that some of the most rewarding Rock Climbing Areas, such as the St. Johanner Palven or Abramakabra, are right next to the car park.
Access & Topos: Rock Climbing Areas on the Waidringer Steinplatte
You’d expect nothing less with a name like that: endless rock wonders! The ‘Wunderländer’ are picture-perfect Rock Climbing Areas: brilliant rock and challenging routes, combined with short Access. However, it’s primarily the hard-core climbers who’ll feel at home here; the number of easy routes is limited. For beginners and families, there’s the nearby children’s climbing area. The only downside in this land of wonders: after downpours, the rock face stays wet for longer, and the holes keep dripping for ages. So it’s best to wait for a longer spell of fine weather in spring or autumn – and then: go for it full throttle!
Access & Topo: Lower & Oberes Wunderland
Right, yet another area with a grandiose name: it’s no coincidence that the Kleine Verdon is reminiscent of its big brother in France; people have been climbing here since the 1980s. It’s therefore arguably the most traditional climbing area in the region; the climbing is correspondingly technically demanding, and the grades are still on the ‘hard’ side. But this does nothing to detract from the beauty of the routes!
The Steinplatte again – but a ‘best of’ guide to the region wouldn’t be complete without paying tribute once more to the Multi-Pitch Climbing routes on the mighty Steinplatte. Whether in the central section of the face or further over towards Wemeteigen – you’ll find well-secured routes everywhere here. Many even whisper that the best rock in Tirol can be found up here. Combined with the panoramic view of the Loferer Steinberge behind you, the area is a seemingly endless mecca for keen alpine climbers!
Access & Topo: Waidringer Steinplatte
Even if we have to resort to another superlative: the ‘EndeNie’ route on the Breithorn is one of the longest Gourmet Tours in the Eastern Alps – 38 pitches of bolted, enjoyable climbing! It’s almost unimaginable that the solid and, in places, painfully rough rock accompanies you for the entire length of the route – but ‘longline’ grandmaster Adi Stocker has once again impressively demonstrated his almost superhuman instinct for the perfect line here. With the approach and descent, this is naturally an undertaking that takes up (more than?) a whole day – provided you have a sense of alpine romance! If you do, head off to the “EndeNie”!
Tips & Safety
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