Climbers who feel at home on easier grades, in particular, will find plenty to enjoy in theTirolean Oberland: there are loads of great beginner routes in this corner of Tirol. But that’s not all.
Text: Simon Schöpf
Let’s start with a real gem: the Laimo Rock Climbing Area would surely feature in any ‘best of’ list, even in the Zillertal. Brilliant granite climbing on endurance routes up to 35 metres in distance – this is where the hardcore climbers will be in their element.
With its east-facing aspect and altitude of 1,700 metres above sea level, it’s a brilliant summer spot for those hot days. However, you won’t get very far in Laimo without putting in a fair bit of effort with your forearms.
50 routes, ranging from grade 3 to grade 8 – and all situated right next to the ancient Roman road, the Via Claudia. No wonder the Nauders Rock Climbing Area is so popular, thanks to its one-minute Access.
If you fancy a bit of a hike to get the blood flowing: from Nauders, it’s a 20-minute hike to the crags (Hiking Trail no. 13). And by the way: have you ever looked down on tanks whilst climbing? No? Then it’s about time you did.
Right at the far end of the Kaunertal valley lies an idyllic spot for Beginners and Families: the Fernergries Rock Climbing Area, with its 44 routes, is also the largest in the valley.
Plenty of grade 4 and 5 slab routes on polished primary rock, with a mere five-minute access – it doesn’t get any more convenient than this. Add to that an altitude of almost 2,000 metres, an alpine setting and a waterfall right next to it. It doesn’t get any more beautiful than this either.
When it comes to multi-pitch climbing in the region, the rule is: a few isolated routes rather than a large, concentrated selection. All the routes require a certain amount of determination and a willingness to make the approach – but you’ll be rewarded with almost guaranteed solitude in a wild and romantic setting.
The name says it all: hidden, certainly; a paradise, without a doubt. An impressive 15 pitches on solid, ancient rock, on the north-facing side for those hot days, and varied to boot – with the exit at almost 2,900 metres. Hidden Paradise gets straight down to business: four distances of 7 pitches must be tackled right at the start. Once you’ve mastered those, you’ll reach easy terrain at the top. Top.
Hopefully, the name isn’t indicative of what lies ahead: the dirt in the crack has long since been cleared out; instead, steep slab climbing awaits on the water-eroded ancient rock of theKleiner Dristkogel. Quartz inclusions instead of dirt.
All in all, a rewarding alpine endeavour, though one that requires confidence in the use of mobile protection. Belay stations and a few intermediate bolts have been drilled along this five-pitch route.
For once, there are several routes for Access here: the Dawinspitze is characterised by the finest Rät limestone. Florian Schranz and his friends have worked hard here, opening up a total of seven challenging multi-pitch routes. The grades range from 7 to 9.
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