The 5 best areas for getting started with Ice Climbing in Tirol
Ice Climbing is a fascinating sport – but where do you start? Five ice-climbing areas in Tirol that are perfect for beginners, from the Taschachschlucht to the Luibisboden Falls.
Ice Climbing is arguably the pinnacle of the various disciplines of mountaineering and is becoming increasingly popular. And quite rightly so! People of all ages are fascinated by ice and climb everything from frozen ice pillars to ice formations just a few millimetres thick. We’d like to introduce you to five ice-climbing areas that are perfect for beginners.
Nothing is as fleeting as ice – just the day before, people were climbing the route in perfect conditions, and the very next day it’s gone and may never form again. We ice-climbing enthusiasts feel the effects of climate change particularly keenly. Routes that were considered classics just a few years ago are now no longer climbable – you can count yourself lucky if you’ve had the chance to complete them!
But where’s the best place to start with Ice Climbing? Definitely not where most of your Facebook friends are heading. Ice Climbing requires a great deal of experience, which you can only gain through years of climbing. However, as long as you don’t overestimate your abilities, it’s incredibly beautiful and great fun! The following five areas are ideal for getting started in the world of ice climbing.
At the end of the Pitztal valley lies the Taschachschlucht, which, thanks to the work of Alfred Dworak, has become a real ice-climbing paradise. Whether you’re a complete beginner or a pro, there’s a route to suit everyone here. The ice walls on either side of the gorge soar up to 20 metres high. The natural icefall at the start of the gorge, on the right-hand side as you head into the valley, is particularly suitable for beginners. The so-called ‘Dynamitwandl’ in the middle section of the gorge offers steep distances and some free-standing pillars for advanced climbers. At the end of the gorge there is another natural ice sheet, which is again ideal for beginners. Throughout the Taschachschlucht there are bolted belay stations or specially provided rope slings at the end of the routes, as well as plenty of trees for belaying. A big plus for beginners: you can also abseil into the gorge from above, allowing you to try out steeper distances without having to lead them.
Much like the Taschachschlucht, the Oberried Ice Park in the Ötztal valley also offers the perfect training ground for those with no prior experience of Ice Climbing. Where families flock to go sport climbing in the summer, in winter there is an ice park that is illuminated until 10 pm, making it ideal for a training session even after work. Here, too, there are belay points available throughout the park. Right next to the ice park is a Cross-Country Ski Track, which is also illuminated until 10 pm.
For those who already feel confident leading, the Kühtaibacherl ice fall is highly recommended. With a grade of WI 3-, it is one of the easier ice falls. However, it should not be underestimated, as the upper pitches also include a few steeper sections. After the first or second pitch, depending on snow conditions, there is a bolted belay. After that, you set up a belay at some tree roots, where there is already plenty of sling material. The descent is by abseiling down the route.
The Gasthausfall in Lüsens, in the Sellrain Valley, also offers a number of climbing routes of varying Levels of Difficulty. On the left-hand side, there are routes up to WI 3+. Those who prefer steeper climbs will find what they’re looking for on the right-hand side (WI 4). Unlike the areas described so far, there are neither trees nor ready-made belay stations here – you’ll have to build these yourself in the ice!
The Luibisbodenfall in the Pitztal is ideal as a first proper icefall where you have to secure yourself entirely on your own, as after almost every steep section you can traverse out of the fall and descend through the woods. With a grade of WI 4+ and a distance of approx. 270 m, this icefall is classified as moderately difficult and does require some experience! Unlike the Kühtaibacherl icefall, you do not abseil down here; instead, you traverse approximately 300 metres to the left and then descend through the woods to the forest track, which takes you back to the Starting Point.
Useful sources of information on the current conditions at the waterfalls:
Click here to see all the ice falls in Climbers Paradise Tirol!
Tips & Safety
Would you like to know more about climbing safety? Click here for our safety tips.
