Just the sight of the striking twin peaks evokes the atmosphere of the Western Alps. The jagged hanging glaciers with their menacing seracs are awe-inspiring. The ridges and steep faces are daunting.
The summit is not only the highest on the Kaunergrat, but is also undoubtedly regarded as one of the most challenging three-thousand-metre peaks in Austria. All the routes are serious alpine undertakings, making the mountain one of the most exciting mountaineering destinations east of the Bernina. Even Swiss Mountain Guides regard the long east ridge up to the Watzespitze as the ideal preparatory route for the Matterhorn and therefore enjoy visiting the Kaunergrathütte with their guests.
Text: Gebi Bendler | Photos: Michael Meisl
Unlike the Matterhorn, however, the rock on the Watzespitze is rock-solid, and the Kaunergrathütte certainly can’t be compared, in terms of the Culinary Experience, to the mass-catering operation at the Swiss Hörnlihütte. The hut team, led by the Dobler family, ensures a cosy stay that you would never experience on the Matterhorn. This homely hut atmosphere, combined with the wonderful climbing opportunities, means that not only do the Swiss enjoy coming here, but local mountaineering schools also hold their courses there.
What’s more, the start points are just a stone’s throw from the Mountain Lodge/Hut: it takes three minutes to reach the Kaunergrathütte climbing park and 15 minutes to reach the climbs on the east face. Meanwhile, the recommended standard route to the summit now also leads via the east face – or, to be more precise, over the east ridge. Climate change is to blame for this.
Nowhere is global warming so clearly evident as in the melting glaciers. The mass of the Watzeferner, for example, has decreased by a third since the 1970s. The consequence is that the old standard route up to the Watzespitze via the glacier is no longer recommended, as the bergschrund is widening and the rocks are becoming exposed. The result can be heard everywhere: boulders are thundering down into the valley. Even on the ‘Early Morning in the Sun’ route, which Anna and Martin are tackling today, the rumbling soundscape in the background provides the soundtrack to their climbing adventure. Yet on the route itself, the rock is solid.
We make our way towards the summit through solid, ancient rock. The panoramic view from there is the most impressive we have to offer. The ice giants of the Ötztal Alps lie before us, whilst to the west, the 4.000-metre peak of Piz Bernina comes into view.
„Glaciers are the Earth’s thermometer.“
Anna looks down sadly from the summit at the Watzeferner, which is getting smaller and smaller. Then her gaze wanders to the other side, towards the Kaunertal, and her voice becomes enthusiastic again: “You can climb over there on the Schweikert too,” she says to her climbing partner. But that’s another story.
In this issue, we have devoted ourselves entirely to alpine climbing in Tirol. Across 136 pages, we showcase Tirol’s impressive vertical diversity, with fascinating stories from 15 climbing spots that offer a deep insight into the history of alpine climbing in Tirol.
Watzespitze / ‘Early Morning in the Sun’ route
All climbing opportunities in the Pitztal region of the Tirolean Oberland
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