Diversity is a top priority in theKufsteinerland region: on the one hand, there is the town of Kufstein with its fortress of the same name, boasting a rich arts and culture programme, shopping opportunities and cosy cafés. On the other hand, there are the two striking and world-famous mountain ranges of the Zahmem and the Wilder Kaiser, which are just a stone’s throw away and can be reached from the town for magnificent alpine climbing tours.
Climbing history was made at the ‘Kaiser’, where alpine climbing was taken to a new level and the ‘Kaiser’ classics were established. The who’s who of climbing legends used to meet here regularly and opened up routes during some daring exploits. But climbing history has continued to be written in more recent times too: in 1988, for instance, Gerhard Hörhager climbed ‘Wagnis Orange’, Austria’s first 8c, at the ‘Geisterschmiedwand’ sport climbing area.
In the Kufsteinerland region, climbing enthusiasts in particular will find a wide and varied selection of alpine gems, interesting multi-pitch routes – for example in the Sparchen climbing area – as well as incredibly tough sport climbing routes at the Geisterschmiedwand Rock Climbing Area. This rock-climbing spectacle is crowned by a multitude of extremely rewarding via ferrata routes. On days off from climbing, the idyllic Kaisertal valley beckons with opportunities for hiking or Mountain biking – incidentally, it was voted Austria’s most beautiful place in 2016 … There’s plenty more to discover too, not just when climbing, but also in the evenings, whether you immerse yourself in the bustling town life of Kufstein or head off to Hechtsee or Thiersee. And for those who prefer 100 per cent mountain charm, there’s the option of booking a holiday at the Stripsenjochhaus or the Hans-Berger-Haus and simply staying up in the mountains. The region offers the perfect setting for every taste: from active to relaxed, from urban charm and culture to nature and tranquillity.
Looking for challenging climbing with short access? Welcome to the Geisterschmiedwand in Kufstein, on the edge of the Kaiserbachtal valley. Ambitious climbers in particular will find plenty to keep them happy here: a steep limestone wall, in places well over 50 metres high, beckons – partly overhanging, partly bulging – a real paradise for ledge climbers. With 60 routes, there’s plenty on offer: the route-setters of the 1980s and 1990s, led by Franz Kröll and Stefan Fürst, did a cracking job. The list of route-setters also includes regional (and national) greats such as Markus Bendler, Helmut Kotter and Roland Hemetzberger. The wall has made a name for itself in part thanks to Austria’s first 8c route, ‘Wagnis Orange’, by Zillertal master Gerhard Hörhager.
A glance at the topography is almost monotonous – given the vast selection of routes ranging from 6c+/7a to 8c. The wall is currently being refurbished and brought up to Climbers Paradise standard, so do make sure to pack a few extra slings. The “Geister”, as it is affectionately known by the local climbing community, is not a wall for a day trip. You’ll want to come back here! Especially once the rock is dry, which can sometimes take a while. The best days for climbing are in spring and then again in autumn.
Is sport climbing right up your street, but do you lack the technique and experience for the classic alpine routes in the ‘Kaiser’? No problem – you can still experience the mountains in all their splendour via the Kaiserschützensteig, for example. This Via Ferrata/Iron Way is famous and notorious for its distance. Stamina, fitness and alpine hiking experience – to help with navigation and assessing Alpine Dangers – are absolutely essential here. If you meet these requirements, you’ll have the chance to enjoy a spectacular mountain experience, complete with an overnight stay at the Anton-Karg-Haus (be sure to book in advance).
Also well worth the effort: the Via Ferrata/Iron Way up to the Stripsenkopf. The route starts right next to the Stripsenjochhaus and, with a difficulty rating of C/D, is certainly challenging, though it is by no means as demanding in terms of stamina and fitness as the Kaiserschützensteig. As it faces south, make the most of the cool morning hours in high summer and take plenty of sun protection and fluids with you. That way, you’ll keep a cool head even on hot days and can enjoy the breathtaking view of the steep north faces of the surrounding peaks to the full.
As always, you can find an overview of all sport climbing areas, alpine routes, Via Ferrata/Iron Ways and indoor climbing centres on Climbers Paradise – Kufsteinerland.
After a climb comes a coffee or a dumpling… The climbing community likes to meet up after alpine adventures at the Stripsenjochhaus or on the terrace of the Hans-Berger-Haus. Those who’ve been out and about in the valley can take a dip in one of the many lakes, such as Thiersee, Hechtsee, Stimmersee or Bananensee Schwoich. For those wishing to celebrate Austrian coffee house culture, we recommend ‘Die Liebelei’ in Kufstein town centre. Here, the café’s own blend of coffee is served at the foot of the fortress. There are also plenty of other cafés and restaurants along the banks of the Inn in Kufstein’s pedestrian zone – rounding off a day’s climbing in the sun here is a dream. There’s certainly no shortage of places to eat and drink.
A hike in the Kaisertal valley is right at the top of the to-do list. Those who prefer Mountain biking will be delighted by the many signposted Mountain biking routes in the region. There are also around 300 kilometres of running and trail running routes. Swimming enthusiasts will love the six crystal-clear natural lakes in the region. Culture lovers will appreciate Kufstein’s top-class programme of events.
Wellness enthusiasts can book a day at the spa in one of the region’s wellness hotels.
The range of accommodation options is as varied as the region itself. There are quiet, family friendly campsites right by one of the lakes, guesthouses, Holiday Apartments/Homes, as well as hotels of all categories. Those who’d prefer to start their climbing days a storey higher can book a bed at the Stripsenjochhaus, the Hans-Berger-Haus or the Vorderkaiserfeldenhütte.
Tips & Safety
Would you like to know more about safety when climbing? Click here for our safety tips.
