Innsbruck and the ‘homo vertikalis’
A tongue-in-cheek portrait of the Innsbruck-native subspecies of the Inntal climbers – the *homo vertikalis innsbruckiansis* – complete with three spots for those first warm spring days on the crags.
A great deal has already been written about the climbing areas around Innsbruck. The Tirolean capital, the Heart of the Alps, the Heart of Climbers Paradise – that much is well known. It’s time to say a few words about the local subspecies of Inntal climbers – the homo vertikalis innsbruckiansis.
Text & photos: Simon Schöpf
Early one Tuesday morning in March or April – draw back the curtains, look out, gasp. Not a cloud in the sky! The last wisp of mist still hangs over the Nordkette; from the Hungerburg onwards, the trees have already donned their white coats again – a few centimetres of fresh snow fell during the night. And now the typical Innsbruck dilemma: should I strap on my powder skis or sling my chalk bag over my shoulder – what on earth should I do?
Spring in Innsbruck is full of such ‘luxury problems’: the sky is often a brilliant blue, the days are getting longer again, there’s still plenty of snow up in the mountains and it’s already pleasantly warm down in the Inn Valley. And the nerve cells of the*homo vertikalis innsbruckiansis* begin their confused mental gymnastics. Is the snow up there still fluffy at all? Will the grip on the rock still be good enough? Will anyone even have time on Tuesday morning for a quick session at the *Dschungelbuch*?
But there’s always someone who’s got time. What really sets Innsbruck apart isn’t its central location in the heart of Europe; it’s the delightfully large pool of over-enthusiastic climbers and Alpine Skiers who simply always have time. Innsbruck as a student town means that lectures aren’t really that important. Innsbruck as a city of free spirits means that handing in that project can wait until tomorrow. It’s all a question of priorities, and in Innsbruck, those priorities are: rock. Powder. Firn ski tours.
So the typical ‘homo vertikalis innsbruckiansis’ will be spreading butter on his honey roll with one hand at breakfast, whilst WhatsApping his way through half his phone book with the other, with ever-increasing nervousness. “Dschungl today?!”, “Fancy a quick shred up at Seegrub?!”, usually accompanied by a few over-the-top sun emojis. Beep beep, beep beep. The long minutes of anxious waiting begin – is anyone free, or are they all already out and about? Slept in too long again today? Or do people actually have to work today, hand in yet another master’s thesis, or go for a walk along the Inn with their whingeing kids? Please! No!
Beep beep, “I’ll pick you up at 9.15, I’ll be there, you’re on it,” comes back eventually. Phew. Take a deep breath. Day saved. Gulping down a roll, downing a coffee, filling the thermos flask, packing the down jacket. Homo vertikalis innsbruckiansis sets off on the hunt; it’s going to be another lovely spring day in Innsbruck.
And where will our *homo vertikalis innsbruckiansis* end up today? A few tips for those first warm days on the crag:
1. Martinswand / Dschungelbuch
The classic, obviously. But the Dschungelbuch is simply an exceptionally versatile Rock Climbing Area with loads of great sectors. Easily reached from Innsbruck, with hardly any access, it’s also perfect for those days when your mates still have to get to lectures in the morning or can’t get away from work until 14. (flexitime!). The main sector is dominated by gruelling edge climbs from 7a upwards; to the right of this, in the ‘Plattenschleicher’ sector, you’ll also find rewarding routes in Levels of Difficulty 6 and 7, though none of them are a walk in the park. You’ve got to work your way up through the ‘Jungle’ first. It’s sunny all day; in March, on cloudless days, you can climb in a T-shirt from around 10 am to 4.30 pm.
Another great classic above Innsbruck, easily accessible in an eco-friendly way by bus (line J) or bike: the Höttinger Steinbruch. In spring, the sun hits it from midday onwards, whilst a few Easy routes out on the right get sun earlier. It’s also perfect as a ‘fallback option’ for ‘homo vertikalis innsbruckiansis’ when you really don’t have any time. The bouldering traverse is admittedly incredibly worn, but rather than staying at home doing nothing, you can always go there for a quick workout.
A small but lovely crag with plenty of Easy routes high above the Inn Valley: the Grottenwand. 15-minute access, with a spot that’s sunny all day long. For the hard-core climbers, there are also a few rewarding spring projects in the direction of the Grotte (e.g. Renaissance, 7c+).
The author is himself a homo vertikalis innsbruckiansis and is therefore well aware of the inner turmoil that takes hold of you when the conditions are just right once again. There’s simply too much to do in this city!
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