When it comes to ‘Europe’s most beautiful high valley’ – the Tannheimer Valley – another superlative would certainly be fitting: rock-solid. And by that we mean the superb quality of the rock. The best thing to do is to go there and see for yourself.
The 250-metre-high south face of the Rote Flüh, in particular, has always held a special attraction for aspiring climbers: people have been climbing here since 1900, using felt-soled shoes and hemp ropes. The Tannheimer Valley probably became truly well-known in climbing circles when the classic ‘Südverschneidung’ (6+ or VI-/A1) was included in the rock-climbing bible *Im extremen Fels* by Pause and Winkler: The (subjectively) hundred most important routes were listed in it, and the Rote Flüh was now on a par with the Wilder Kaiser and the Große Zinne.
Many climbing parties have since made the pilgrimage through the Südverschneidung, leaving their mark on the rock. But the Tannheimer Valley has far more to offer; there are now six sport climbing areas, eight multi-pitch routes and three Via Ferrata/Iron Ways. We’ve put together a (likewise subjective) selection of the ‘must-climbs’ for you here. Because anyone who’s ever tackled the perfect rock of the Rote Flüh, with the idyllic Haldensee behind them, is bound to come back. To the most beautiful high valley in the world!
Despite the many alternative destinations, the Rote Flüh must be mentioned first. The routes are simply too beautiful, the Tradition too rich. But it doesn’t necessarily have to be the ‘Südverschneidung’ – anyone who has mastered that grade will be much happier on the ‘Via Barbara’ (7a+) or the ‘Hinkelstein’ (6c+) anyway. Compact slab climbing at its finest!
Access & topos: Rote Flüh, Tannheimer Valley
It can get quite busy on the Rote Flüh. If you trudge on from the Gimpelhaus towards the Zwerchwand, you simply leave the wall and the crowds to your left and are soon on your own. And that’s despite the fact that one route on the wall has even made it into the modern bible of climbing: ‘Miss Nesselwängle’ has been selected for the Alpine guidebook ‘Moderne Zeiten’ – and rightly so!
Access & Topos: Zwerchwand, Tannheimer Valley
The Gimpel isn’t far away geographically either: the routes on its faces are modern and well-bolted, making the climbs correspondingly popular. And even the region’s Mountain Lodge/Hut bears its name: the Gimpelhaus is an ideal base for anyone planning more than just a day trip! And there’s plenty of choice.
Access & Topos: Gimpel, Tannheimer Valley
Admittedly, most climbers in the Tannheim Valley head for the alpine walls higher up. However, there are also a few nice sport climbing areas.
The Tannheim Mountain Rescue Service has done a cracking job here: this fine stretch of rock was bolted in 2010 and is easily reached in 10 minutes from the Top station. With grades ranging from 5a to 7b, there should be something for everyone. Thanks, Mountain Rescue!
Access & topos: Kanzel Rock Climbing Area, Tannheim Valley
If you’re after something a bit more laid-back: the wall at the Gaichtpass is right next to the road, making for very pleasant Access. Of course, on fine days there’s some traffic noise, but the stunning views more than make up for it. Although the routes are all very well bolted, the rock is a bit crumbly in places – make sure you wear a helmet!
Access & Topos: Gaichtpass Rock Climbing Area
On the west face of the Läuferspitze lies a rewarding Finishing Point for sport climbers: with the help of the cable car, you can reach the crag from the Füssener Jöchle in a good 15 minutes. Those who fancy a bit of a leg workout can hike up from Grän in just over 1½ hours. Stunning panoramic views included!
Access & Topos: Läuferspitze Rock Climbing Area, Tannheimer Valley
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