Multi-pitch routes in the Wilder Kaiser region

Experience the mountains up close
Ein Mann klettert auf einem hohen Berg.
Ein Mann klettert auf einem hohen Berg.

The Wilder Kaiser region, which stretches around the four Kaiser towns of Ellmau, Going, Scheffau and Söll, is one of Austria’s most prominent climbing destinations.

Climbing has a rich history here! Well-known Alpine names such as Totenkirchl, Predigtstuhl and Fleischbank inspire awe and a spirit of sporting ambition among mountaineers. But it’s not just experienced climbers who get their money’s worth in the Wilder Kaiser – a varied selection of sport climbing routes, multi-pitch routes, Via Ferratas and indoor climbing centres offer a wide range of opportunities for climbing enthusiasts of all ability levels. And with a little imagination, during a climbing tour on the Felskopf between Treffau and Ellmau’s Haltspitze, you can even make out the profile of Charlemagne – the region owes its name to him!

Here are a few suggestions for alpine sport climbing routes and ‘pleasure’ routes in the Wilder Kaiser. Of course, there are many more multi-pitch routes and alpine classics – over 200 in total – and you can find information and topos in the climbing guide *Alpin Wilder Kaiser* by Markus Stadler (second edition, Panico-Alpinverlag, 2017).

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Impressive Multi-Pitch Climbing tips in the Wilder Kaiser

Vordere Karlspitze – ‘Wirtskante’

  • Well-secured multi-pitch route
  • Alpine character
  • Stunning scenery in the Wilder Kaiser
  • Access from the Wochenbrunner Hut: approx. 1.5 hours
  • Bolts sponsored by the Gaudeamushütte

Sonneck – ‘HaZo Fantastica’

  • Consistent difficulty in grades 6. and 7.
  • Crack, dihedral, wall and slab climbing
  • One of the best wall climbs in the Wilder Kaiser
  • Access from the Jägerwirt in Scheffau: approx. 2 hours

Treffauer Nordwandsockel – “König der Löwen”

  • Perfectly bolted multi-pitch route
  • Ideal introduction to alpine sport climbing
  • Climbing on water-carved grooves, slabs and walls
  • A delightful route for hot summer days
  • Access from the Jägerwirt in Scheffau: approx. 2 hours