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Sport climbing in the Kaiser Mountains

The Kaiser region includes the area around the four villages Ellmau, Going, Scheffau and Söll. The Kaiser Mountains are one of Austria’s most popular climbing destinations. In 1977, international climbing history was written when the route „Pumprisse“ (7th grade) at Fleischbank-Pfeiler was established. Popular alpine routes such as Totenkirchl, Predigtstuhl or Fleischbank trigger both respect and ambition. This climbing hot spot is recommended for both beginners and experienced climbers who search an individual challenge on rock. Aside from sport climbing routes, the Kaiser Mountains also offer multi pitches, via ferratas and climbing gyms. With a bit of fantasy, you can recognise the emperor’s, Charles the Great, profile between the Treffauer and Ellmauer Halt Peak. He gave the holiday region in the Tirolean Unterland its name (“Kaiser” = emperor).

5 tips for sport climbing in the Kaiser region

  • Ellmauer Kaiserklettergarten climbing garden: The  Ellmauer Kaiserklettergarten climbing garden offers all together 16 climbing routes between 3 and 7. It is divided into two sectors, the Murmeltierfelsen (12m high) and the Gamsfelsen (15m high). Starting point is the Wochenbrunner Alm in Ellmau (1.085 m). The access hike takes up to 40 minutes.
  • Achleiten climbing garden: The 70m high Fiaggnwand wall in Achleiten is a secret spot among climbers. There are 150 sport climbing routes up to 40m high. The routes are graded 6+ and harder. Due to its exposed location, you can already climb here in January when it’s sunny.
  • Multerkarwand climbing garden: The Multerkarwand wall is 230m high and located at the foot of the Treffauer mountain. It provides 22 sport climbing routes of which eight routes are multi pitches. The access hike takes 1 to 1,5 hours. Starting point is the Jägerwirt inn in Scheffau.
  • Schleierwasserfall climbing garden: The Schleierwasserfall climbing garden in Going is located at the foot of the Maukspitze mountain. It provides some of Europe’s most difficult sport climbing routes (10 to 11 on the grading scale). This climbing hot-spot is recommended for both beginners and experienced climbers who search an individual challenge on rock. You can climb all year around. In summer, you can also take a refreshing bath in the Schleier-Gumpe, a natural pool.
  • Wilderer Kanzel climbing garden: The Wilderer Kanzel climbing garden has 32 routes up to 25m. The difficulty levels range from 2 to 10- (8a+). Starting point is the Wochenbrunner Alm hut in Ellmau (1.085 m) or the Tannbichl parking lot in Going. Great rock quality!
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