Tannheimer Tal
Gimpel (2.173m)
The routes on the Gimpel are beautifully situated, offer a magnificent panorama and are mostly well secured. The climbing area is easy to reach and is accordingly busy. This means that you have to expect traffic on the tours and have to take into account waiting times.
Despite the popularity and the meanwhile good protection with bolts one should not forget that this is an alpine climbing area. The appropriate equipment is therefore mandatory!
There are three climbing guides for the region: one by Toni Freudig (see
www.freudig.de) "Climbing on the sunny side of Tannheim" resp. by the same author "Climbing in the heart of Tannheim" and also a climbing guide from the Panico publishing house! Alpin Allgäu incl. Tannheim mountains by Achim Pasold published by Panico Verlag! The climbing guides are available at the Gimpelhaus.
In Nesselwängle parken und von dort (Parkplatz) dauert es ca. 1h 15min bis zum Gimpelhaus. Auf Wunsch ist auch ein Gepäcktransport mit der Materialseilbahn möglich. Wer möchte kann auch am Gimpelhaus (1659m) übernachten - siehe (www.tannheimertal.at/gimpelhaus).
Als Möglichkeit steht auch noch die Tannheimer Hütte (1760m) zur Verfügung. Der Zustieg dauert nur 15min länger - siehe tannheimer-huette@alpenverein-kempten.de
Von beiden Hütten dauert der Weg zu den Einstiegen ca. 30min.
In Nesselwängle near the Gimpelhaus car park
Short access, manageable routes, perfect protection: the routes have made the south-east porch of the Gimpels an independent, popular climbing destination in its own right. On some days there is more action here than on the south face of the Gimpel summit, which after all is one of the highest of the Tannheim mountains.
Insatiable climbers can easily do several routes in one day at the south-east porch, or after a route at the south-east porch they can add another one at the south-east wall of the Gimpel.
But there is to consider that in the routes in the lower area, one climbs right above the hiking path and can meet some rock fall hikers. Thus, absolute caution is requested.
The route "Really up until you never" is the easternmost route on the stem. The route is very homogeneous - mainly between 6 and 6+. Partly also in the 5 degree of difficulty with relatively firm rock. The 160m route is insured with bolts and is considered one of the most beautiful routes in the Tannheimertal.
P. Schwarzmann und C. Zelt (2005)
From Nesselwängle to the Gimpelhaus or Tannheimerhütte and then to the south-east entrance. From the huts the ascent takes about 40 minutes (from the valley 2h 30min)
From the exit of Really Up you never climb a few meters and then turn left in a rugged gully for about 30 meters to a fixed rope that leads to the first abseil point.
It can also be crossed to the Gimpel-Normalweg and descended on it.
Route is located to the left of "You're never really on top"! Same entry and abseiling piste.
Homogenous steep wall climbing. Especially the key rope length, a steep compact hole plate with a heavy pull on small holds requires maximum strength and good technique.
Peter Schwarzmann und Jörg Kuhn
From Nesselwängle to the Gimpelhaus or Tannheimerhütte and then to the south-east entrance. From the huts the ascent takes about 40 minutes (from the valley 2h 30min). The "Kuschelrock" route is the penultimate route on the south-east porch.
Via the abseiling piste (left of the route) or the Gimpel Normalweg back to the entrance. Approx. 50min.
Route secured with borehooks in solid, flat rock with persistent difficulties in the 5th degree.
Toni Freudig, Peter Trzaska, Bernd Strobach 1998
From Nesselwängle to the Gimpelhaus and then to the south-east entrance. From the huts the ascent takes about 40 minutes (from the valley 2h 30min). The "Kuschelrock" route is the penultimate route on the south-east porch.
Descend via the forgotten normal route.
Entry for Primavera and With the last light. a short place 7, the rest easier. Mostly good rock. Well secured.
From Nesselwängle to the Gimpelhaus or Tannheimerhütte and then to the south-east entrance. From the huts the ascent takes about 40 minutes (from the valley 2h 30min). The "Kuschelrock" route is the penultimate route on the south-east porch.
Descend via the forgotten normal route.
Persistently difficult rope length in compact rock. Well secured with bolts.
Access via the route Fers-frakt-li
Access via the Fers-frakt-li route
Descend via the forgotten normal route.
Exit variant set up from above, which requires a lot of effort. Well secured with drill hooks.
Access via the route Fers-frakt-li.
Access via the Fers-frakt-li route
Descend via the forgotten normal route.
Perfectly secured pleasure climbing (one point 5+, also A0 possible) on predominantly solid rock.
T. Freudig, M.Kucht 1990
From Nesselwängle to the Gimpelhaus or Tannheimerhütte and then to the south-east entrance. From the huts the ascent takes about 40 minutes (from the valley 2h 30min).
Descend via the Forgotten Normal Path (abseiling piste was removed due to danger of falling rocks). If there is time for threading, abseiling can be done via the route.
Varied climbing over slabs, intersections and overhangs. The key point is waiting in an intersection where mobility and good splaying lead to success. The rock is mostly solid, but great caution is advisable, because the trail runs directly below the route!
Meanwhile the route ends at the wall book after the 4th pitch. Be careful when abseiling!
Peter Schwarzmann, H.-G.Frosch 2005
From Nesselwängle to the Gimpelhaus and then to the south-east entrance. From the huts the ascent takes about 40 minutes (from the valley 2h 30min).
2x60m abseiling over the route
Enjoyable homogeneous climbing in good rock, very well secured and with clever rope guidance in three long rope lengths. A few holey slabs and the exposed transverse passage with plenty of air under the soles protrude. Instead of the cross passage you can also climb directly over the roof.
Peter Schwarzmann, Uwe Schneider 2005
From Nesselwängle to the Gimpelhaus and then to the south-east entrance. From the hut the access takes about 40min (from the valley 2h 30min)
Abseiling over time for threading
Logical and homogeneous line through a system of chimneys and cracks. In comparison with the neighbouring routes rather sparingly secured.
Toni Freudig, Seppi Walter 1989
From Nesselwängle to the Gimpelhaus and then to the south-east entrance. From the huts the ascent takes about 40 minutes (from the valley 2h 30min). The "Kuschelrock" route is the penultimate route on the south-east porch.
Descend via the forgotten normal route.
Diversified climbing, which leads in clever lines through the confusing wall, in the middle part identical with the south-east facing route of Landes/Biock. A few grass cushions have to be accepted, but do not disturb the enjoyment significantly. The route lies in the sun from the early morning hours. From the ascent a fixed rope leads to the right to the first abseil point.
Peter Schwarzmann, H.G. Frosch, Gisbert Zeddel 2005
From Nesselwängle to the Gimpelhaus and then to the south-east entrance. From the hut the ascent takes about 40 minutes (from the valley 2h 30min).
From the ascent a fixed rope leads to the right to the first abseil point.
The fastest way is via the abseiling piste between Kuschelrock and Really up is never. From the exit of Really Up you never climb a few meters and then descend to the left in a rugged gully for about 30 meters to a fixed rope that leads to the first abseil point.
Low but broad south wall, which adjoins the Gimpel southeast porch to the east, a large prominent gorge divides the wall into a western and an eastern part. The routes find the best way through the best parts of the wall and are all very well secured.
In a narrow wall with a lot of grind, interesting places of cold were lined up by good guidance. The result is a plaisir suspicious route, which is very popular.
Peter Schwarzmann und Matthias Huber 2003
From the two huts in direction Gimpel Normalweg. Where the path meets the Gimpel porch, turn right towards Nesselwängler Scharte. The routes are then on the left above the path.
For the routes in the western part of the wall there are 2 well equipped abseiling pistes. There are several possibilities, the more demanding one leads from the highest ridge over a steel cable to the first one, it is a slightly overhanging abseiling point and runs south (red markings), advantageous in spring.
An easier abseiling track leads from the highest point of the ridge west along the ridge into the Zwerchscharte and from the saddle south.
There is also a rappelling slope in the central part of the wall about 50m west of the exit of the route MISS NESSELWÄNGLE.
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
Continuous, homogeneous and steep climbing in predominantly good rock.
Peter Schwarzmann und Jörg Kühn 2003
From the two huts in direction Gimpel Normalweg. Where the path meets the Gimpel porch, turn right towards Nesselwängler Scharte. The routes are then on the left above the path.
For the routes in the western part of the wall there are 2 well equipped abseiling pistes. There are several possibilities, the more demanding one leads from the highest ridge over a steel cable to the first one, it is a slightly overhanging abseiling point and runs south (red markings), advantageous in spring.
An easier abseiling track leads from the highest point of the ridge west along the ridge into the Zwerchscharte and from the saddle south.
There is also a rappelling slope in the central part of the wall about 50m west of the exit of the route MISS NESSELWÄNGLE.
The route is very varied and leads over slabs, overhangs and intersections up to the ridge.
Peter Scgwarzmann, Andi Vogt 2004
From the two huts in direction Gimpel Normalweg. Where the path meets the Gimpel porch, turn right towards Nesselwängler Scharte. The routes are then on the left above the path.
For the routes in the western part of the wall there are 2 well equipped abseiling pistes. There are several possibilities, the more demanding one leads from the highest ridge over a steel cable to the first one, it is a slightly overhanging abseiling point and runs south (red markings), advantageous in spring.
An easier abseiling track leads from the highest point of the ridge west along the ridge into the Zwerchscharte and from the saddle south.
There is also a rappelling slope in the central part of the wall about 50m west of the exit of the route MISS NESSELWÄNGLE.
The route branches from the third pitch of Miss Nesselwängle directly through the compact wall zone up to the ridge. The crux demands a measure of precise climbing and finger strength for the small ledges. The penultimate pitch is one of the most beautiful in the Tannheim area.
Peter Schwarzmann, Andi Vogt 2004
Von den beiden Hütten in Richtung Gimpel Normalweg. Dort wo der Weg auf den Gimpel Vorbau trifft, zweigt man rechts Richtung Nesselwängler Scharte ab. Die Routen befinden sich dann links oberhalb des Weges.
For the routes in the western part of the wall there are 2 well equipped abseiling pistes. There are several possibilities, the more demanding one leads from the highest ridge over a steel cable to the first one, it is a slightly overhanging abseiling point and runs south (red markings), advantageous in spring.
An easier abseiling track leads from the highest point of the ridge west along the ridge into the Zwerchscharte and from the saddle south.
There is also a rappelling slope in the central part of the wall about 50m west of the exit of the route MISS NESSELWÄNGLE.
Nach einen kaltstart im Einstiegsüberhang folgt schöne abwechslungsreiche Kletterei an Platten, Löchern und Leisten. Schöne Route wird häufig begangen.
Peter Schwarzmann, Andi Vogt, Albert Schuster, Matthias Huber 2004
Von den beiden Hütten in Richtung Gimpel Normalweg. Dort wo der Weg auf den Gimpel Vorbau trifft, zweigt man rechts Richtung Nesselwängler Scharte ab. Die Routen befinden sich dann links oberhalb des Weges.
Für die Routen im westlichen Wandteil gibt es 2 gut eingerichtete Abseilpisten. Es gibt mehrere Möglichkeiten, die anspruchsvollere leitet von der höchsten Graterhebung über ein Stahlseil zur ersten, es ist eine leicht überhängende Abseilstelle und verläuft südseitig (rote Markierung), im Früjahr Vorteilhaft.
Eine leichtere Abseilpiste leitet vom höchsten Punkt des Grates westlich entlang des Grates in die Zwerchscharte und von der Scharte südlich weiter.
Es gibt auch noch eine Abseilpiste im zentralen Wandteil ca. 50m westlich des Ausstiegs der Route MISS NESSELWÄNGLE.
Low but broad south wall, which adjoins the Gimpel southeast porch to the east, a large prominent gorge divides the wall into a western and an eastern part. The routes find the best way through the best parts of the wall and are all very well secured.
It's one of the easier routes along the Zwerchwand. The first pitch is a bit rough, but after that the route offers varied wall, slab and crack climbing.
Toni Feudig, 2005
From the two huts in direction Gimpel Normalweg. Where the path meets the Gimpel porch, turn right towards Nesselwängler Scharte. The routes are then on the left above the path.
For the routes in the eastern part of the wall, the abseiling piste starts on the far left at the exit of route LINIE 2005. A fixed rope leads from the ridge to the first abseiling point.
Mostly wall, slab, and intersection climbing and a crack chimney. Interspersed with a few rugged passages and grass bands. Still the most rewarding route on the eastern diaphragm wall.
Peter Schwarzmann und Jörg Kühn 2003
From the hut in direction Gimpel Normalweg. Where the path meets the Gimpel porch, turn right towards Nesselwängler Scharte. The routes are then on the left above the path.
For the routes in the eastern part of the wall, the abseiling piste starts on the far left at the exit of route LINIE 2005. A fixed rope leads from the ridge to the first abseiling point.
Is a worthwhile route despite several rough stretches. The first complete climb was snatched away from the setter by two thieving pensioners from Allgäu
Peter Schwarzmann, jörg Kühn 2004
From the hut in direction Gimpel Normalweg. Where the path meets the Gimpel porch, turn right towards Nesselwängler Scharte. The routes are then on the left above the path.
For the routes in the eastern part of the wall, the abseiling piste starts on the far left at the exit of route LINIE 2005. A fixed rope leads from the ridge to the first abseiling point.
The route ends under an overhang in the last third of the wall, but still offers very interesting climbing. The route is reminiscent of Richard Stängl from Immenstadt who crashed in the Bernese Oberland.
Peter Schwarzmann, Andi Vogt 2004
From the hut in direction Gimpel Normalweg. Where the path meets the Gimpel porch, turn right towards Nesselwängler Scharte. The routes are then on the left above the path.
Abseiling slope is left of the route.
This is also one of the new routes, but with the most alpine touch, sometimes rough and inhomogeneous. But for safe 5-person climbers with alpine experience an alternative to the classics.
Peter Schwarzmann, Uwe Schneider 2004
From the hut in direction Gimpel Normalweg. Where the path meets the Gimpel porch, turn right towards Nesselwängler Scharte. The routes are then on the left above the path.
For the routes in the eastern part of the wall, the abseiling piste starts on the far left at the exit of route LINIE 2005. A fixed rope leads from the ridge to the first abseiling point.
Die letzte Erhebung im langen Ostausläufer des Gimpels. Der recht grasige Felskopf ragt westlich der Nesselwängler Scharte auf und kann von dort püber den kurzen Ostrgrat ereecht werden, Durch den kompakten Teil der Südwand führen kurze und optimal mit Bohrhaken gesicherte Routen. Wer den Schwierigkeiten gewachsen, ist ist es ein nettes Ausweichziel um den Südwanrummel zu entfliehen.
Sport climbing with an alpine touch, on the leaning pillar on the left of the shepherd.
The last pitch offers steep climbing in very rough rock.
Peter Schwarzmann, Andi Vogt, Georg Motzet 2003
Von den Hütten auf dem Wanderweg in Richtung Nesselwängler Scharte. Wo der Weg den Fels erreicht noch 50m ansteigend weiter. Dann den Weg nach links oben verlassen und über Schrofen und Geröll zu den Einstiegen
Über die Routen 1 bis 3 wird üblich abgeseilt.
Wer dass Gipfelerlebniss will muss drei selbzusichernde Seillängen im 3 u. 4 Schwierigkeitsgrad bewältigen. Oder wer den Gipfel über die Route Svenja erreicht hat, steigt über den Ostgrat zur Nesselwängler Scharte ab.
1-2 bei Nässe unangenehm.
Diese Route bietet anspruchsvolle steile Wand- und Risskletterei mit anhaltender und homogen verteilter Schwierigkeit.
Peter Schwarzmann und Jürgen Vogt 2003
Von den Hütten auf dem Wanderweg in Richtung Nesselwängler Scharte. Wo der Weg den Fels erreicht noch 50m ansteigend weiter. Dann den Weg nach links oben verlassen und über Schrofen und Geröll zu den Einstiegen
Über die Routen 1 bis 3 wird üblich abgeseilt.
Wer dass Gipfelerlebniss will, muss drei selbzusichernde Seillängen im 3 u. 4 Schwierigkeitsgrad bewältigen. Oder wer den Gipfel über die Route Svenja erreicht hat, steigt über den Ostgrat zur Nesselwängler Scharte ab.
1-2 bei Nässe unangenehm.
Alpine Sportkletterei an kompakten Fels. Schöne und ausgesetzte Wand- und Plattenkletteri mit intessanteb Querungen. Sehr beliebt??
Peter Schwarzmann, Uwe Schneider,Stefan Ritschel, Werner Strube 2005
Von den Hütten auf dem Wanderweg in Richtung Nesselwängler Scharte. Wo der Weg den Fels erreicht noch 50m ansteigend weiter. Dann den Weg nach links oben verlassen und über Schrofen und Geröll zu den Einstiegen
Über die Routen 1 bis 3 wird üblich abgeseilt.
Wer dass Gipfelerlebniss will muss drei selbzusichernde Seillängen im 3 u. 4 Schwierigkeitsgrad bewältigen. Oder wer den Gipfel über die Route Svenja erreicht hat, steigt über den Ostgrat zur Nesselwängler Scharte ab.
1-2 bei Nässe unangenehm.
The Gimpel is one of the highest mountains of the Tannheim Alps with a peak height of 2176 metres and its normal route over the SE flank and east ridge is a popular destination for demanding mountain hikers. The Gimpel offers climbers ascents of different kinds.
While the south side offers short, sunny pleasure routes, the rather gloomy north side offers a multitude of rarely used long and alpine climbing routes.
One example is the striking "Schräge Riss". However, the north face primarily describes the new, modern or renovated routes and the climbing garden routes on the left-hand side of the wall.
The demanding route leads from the lower part of the Gimpelband in a fairly direct line through the compact wall part. Between the water eroded plates there are always passages with brittle rock. Demanding alpine undertaking, mastery of the 7th degree is a prerequisite.
Peter Illner, Josef Heinl
From Musau via the Otto Mayr Hütte:
From the Otto Mayr Hut, cross the stream and partly pathlessly up the scree slope to the wall (approx. 30 min.).
From Grän:
From the valley station of the cable car to the Füssener Jöchle on the hiking trail to the summit station (45 min.). Keep right and follow the signposted path to the Otto Mayr Hut. Shortly before the hut, cross under the north face (from the car park approx. 2h). If you use the cable car, the ascent time is considerably reduced, but you will arrive relatively late at the start.
From the summit south on the normal route. The way back over the Judenscharte to the north side is not easy and tricky.
Easier via the Nesselwängler Scharte (approx. 2.5 hours to the Otto Mayr Hütte).
From the big band you can abseil down a rappel piste, which however does not exactly follow the route Tierra del Fuego.
Only something for very experienced alpine climbers!
The stands are sometimes hard to find - absolutely Prusiksicherung!
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
The Expremklasiker of earlier years is certainly the most rewarding route for moderate climbers on the north side of the Gimpels. Especially the "Schertelplatte" offers great climbing in solid rock. After the "Schertelplatte" there are only two 5+ length hooks in the two 5+ lengths and finding the way in the upper easy part is not always easy either. After the "Schertelplatte" the route does not run directly along the edge, but always in the wall to the left of it. At the beginning over the Gimpelband (rope-free or at the right edge over the Alte Nordwand, marked standing places or rappelling points)
Hermann Schertel, Max Neher
From Musau via the Otto Mayr Hütte:
From the Otto Mayr Hut, cross the stream and partly pathlessly up the scree slope to the wall (approx. 30 min.).
From Grän:
From the valley station of the cable car to the Füssener Jöchle on the hiking trail to the summit station (45 min.). Keep right and follow the signposted path to the Otto Mayr Hut. Shortly before the hut, cross under the north face (from the car park approx. 2h). If you use the cable car, the ascent time is considerably reduced, but you will arrive relatively late at the start.
From the summit south on the normal route. The way back over the Judenscharte to the north side is not easy and tricky.
Easier via the Nesselwängler Scharte (approx. 2.5 hours to the Otto Mayr Hütte).
From the big band you can abseil down a rappel piste, which however does not exactly follow the route Tierra del Fuego.
Only something for very experienced alpine climbers!
The stands are sometimes hard to find - absolutely Prusiksicherung!
A beautiful and difficult route through the Gimpel north face, which has a partly alpine character despite the bolts. Up to the eighth pitch you can easily retreat by rappelling over the Gimpelband. Especially if you decide to climb with single rope, a retreat afterwards is rather difficult and not recommended. The 9th pitch requires a sense of wayfinding and has an alpine character. You have to find the right place for the left traverse and then traverse in partly brittle rock to the next belay. Then follow nice lengths to the Sonnenplatte belaystation. At the last 7+ before the headwall, some attention is required in terms of orientation. This is followed by a crumbly and again alpine traverse to the saddle below the headwall. Here you need a little more power before you reach the summit book.
Walter Hölzler, Lena Fackler
By car over the Fernpass to Musau and then on to the district of Roßschläg. There, take a gravel road to the upper of the two hiking parking lots and park there.
Approach to the wall:
From the parking lot follow the signs in the direction of the Otto-Mayr-Hütte. Pass the Musauer Alm. At the prominent right turn before the last climb to the Otto-Mayr-Hütte, go diagonally left through the small forest (at about 1500 m) in the direction of Gimpel Nordwand (from the parking lot about 2h on foot and 30 minutes by e-bike). Here is the bike or backpack depot. Then climb up the scree field to the base of the wall. The entrance was marked with a small metal plaque. However, this is located at a height of about 5m and is difficult to see. The important reference is the Gimpelband, which runs diagonally from the lower left to the upper right. The entrance is clearly to the right of its spur at the base of the wall. (approx. at 1600m)
From Grän:
From the valley station of the cable car to the Füssener Jöchle on the hiking trail to the summit station (45 min.). Keep right and follow the signposted path to the Otto Mayr Hut. Shortly before the hut, cross under the north face (from the car park approx. 2h). If you use the cable car, the ascent time is considerably reduced, but you will arrive relatively late at the start.
After the exit, follow the ridge south to the summit. There, descend the Gimpel Normalweg first in an easterly direction and then in a southerly direction. After the steep descent via the path, head east again and briefly follow trail no. 422, but then keep left and follow the path slightly uphill and then cross into trail no. 415. Follow this path briefly and then turn left - i.e. north - to the Nässelwängler Scharte. Then descend on the north side - partly secured by ropes. Attention: the condition of the insurances is partly very questionable. Follow the path down to the valley floor. Finally, ascend the forest path for a short time and return to the backpack depot or to the bicycles. Time required from the summit: approx. 2 - 2.5 h.
Beautiful, long alpine sport climbing route in water eroded limestone rock. Only a few passages are still a bit brittle despite the removal work and require sensitive climbing. The first rope route is identical to the extreme right climbing route Jakutien.
In the lower part of the wall, endurance climbing on mostly good holds is the order of the day. From the 11th pitch on, the terrain changes. Now standing technique is required.
Walter Hölzler, Lena Fackler
From Musau via the Otto Mayr Hütte:
From the Otto Mayr Hut, cross the stream and partly pathlessly up the scree slope to the wall (approx. 30 min.).
From Grän:
From the valley station of the cable car to the Füssener Jöchle on the hiking trail to the summit station (45 min.). Keep right and follow the signposted path to the Otto Mayr Hut. Shortly before the hut, cross under the north face (from the car park approx. 2h). If you use the cable car, the ascent time is considerably reduced, but you will arrive relatively late at the start.
At the Gimpelperle from the end of the difficulties via the established abseiling piste back to the entrance.
Or after the route continue to climb up to the ridge of the Gimpelperle and then descend south on the normal route. Return to the valley via the Nesselwängler Schärtle.
A prime example of the many classic routes on the Gimpel north face not described in this guide. The impressive crack and slab climbing is very rarely done and offers alpine ambitious climbers a real adventure. A few old rusty hooks demand the full wedge set, possibly also a few normal hooks and quite sovereign climbing.
The direct variant to the 3rd stand is even more demanding in every respect.
After the grass band the route follows the NE edge.
K. Lang, H. Schmitt
From Musau via the Otto Mayr Hütte:
From the Otto Mayr Hut, cross the stream and partly pathlessly up the scree slope to the wall (approx. 30 min.).
From Grän:
From the valley station of the cable car to the Füssener Jöchle on the hiking trail to the summit station (45 min.). Keep right and follow the signposted path to the Otto Mayr Hut. Shortly before the hut, cross under the north face (from the car park approx. 2h). If you use the cable car, the ascent time is considerably reduced, but you will arrive relatively late at the start.
At the Gimpelperle from the end of the difficulties via the established abseiling piste back to the entrance.
Or after the route continue to climb up to the ridge of the Gimpelperle and then descend south on the normal route. Return to the valley via the Nesselwängler Schärtle.
The south wall runs through a narrow grid of sun-exposed and pleasurable rouens and therefore enjoys much greater popularity than the dark and serious north wall.
Popular since time immemorial are the "Westrat", which borders the wall on the left, with the famous "Nur Mut Johann" spot and the "Alte Südwand". If you can gain some more weight there, you should take the somewhat more demanding "gourmet variant" in the upper part.
Among the more difficult routes, the "New Southeast Edge" has become a magnet in recent years - particularly good protection is also highly valued in the Allgäu.
In all routes the danger of falling rocks should not be underestimated and also the descent can be very unpleasant in wet conditions.
Nice ridge climbing with two strenuous key points. Especially the steep upswing of "Nur Mut Johann" requires a strong grip (possibly a step sling).
J. Bachschmid, A. Weixler, E. Christa
From the Gimpelhaus on a marked path into the Gimpelkar and along the foot of the wall (watch out for falling rocks - put on your helmet!) to the entrances (30 to 40 min.)
From the summit in about 50 minutes on the normal path, which is very uncomfortable in wet conditions, or, if you want to go a little further, on the forgotten normal path down to the foot of the wall (2-). Pay attention to the danger of falling rocks!
Publikweg: approx. 80m, normal hook, little used
Lodererroute: approx. 120m, first SL worthwhile (at the stand there is a bra for abseiling), rest unworthwhile
Kusse-Riss: 30m, who is to be secured and who is to climb the strenuous Risskletterei of M. Nöß and T. Freudig from 1985
Erosion plates: 25m, baseclimbs first walked by T. Freudig with prisoners and secured with BH, SU and NH in compact water groove rock. Rewarding! Danger of falling rocks from the west ridge!
The quality of the rock is not absolutely exhilarating, but if the weather is rather uncertain or if you have a small appetite for rock, this is a good alternative destination. Danger of falling rocks from the west ridge!
From the Gimpelhaus on a marked path into the Gimpelkar and along the foot of the wall (watch out for falling rocks - put on your helmet!) to the entrances (30 to 40 min.)
From the summit in about 50 minutes on the normal path, which is very uncomfortable in wet conditions, or, if you want to go a little further, on the forgotten normal path down to the foot of the wall (2-). Pay attention to the danger of falling rocks!
Worthwhile alternative to the often overcrowded west ridge, chimney, crack and intersection climbing throughout.
M. Schweiger, L. Huber
From the Gimpelhaus on a marked path into the Gimpelkar and along the foot of the wall (watch out for falling rocks - put on your helmet!) to the entrances (30 to 40 min.)
From the summit in about 50 minutes on the normal path, which is very uncomfortable in wet conditions, or, if you want to go a little further, on the forgotten normal path down to the foot of the wall (2-). Pay attention to the danger of falling rocks!
Diversified climbing, which has become increasingly popular in recent years. Especially in the upper part of the slab, there are some unexpectedly power-sapping overhangs and some delicious elegant spots waiting for good technicians.
M. Schweiger, L. Huber
From the Gimpelhaus on a marked path into the Gimpelkar and along the foot of the wall (watch out for falling rocks - put on your helmet!) to the entrances (30 to 40 min.)
From the summit in about 50 minutes on the normal path, which is very uncomfortable in wet conditions, or, if you want to go a little further, on the forgotten normal path down to the foot of the wall (2-). Pay attention to the danger of falling rocks!
Rewarding, logical climbing through cracks and chimneys. On sunny weekends, you can escape the crowds by climbing early or late. In the lower part there are different variations possible. It is recommended to avoid the easy rope lengths in the upper part and to climb over the gourmet variant. Unfortunately it is now very greasy and prone to falling rocks.
R. Haff, H. Haff
From the Gimpelhaus on a marked path into the Gimpelkar and along the foot of the wall (watch out for falling rocks - put on your helmet!) to the entrances (30 to 40 min.)
From the summit in about 50 minutes on the normal path, which is very uncomfortable in wet conditions, or, if you want to go a little further, on the forgotten normal path down to the foot of the wall (2-). Pay attention to the danger of falling rocks!
Worthwhile slab climbing, which primarily requires a clean foot technique. The variant leaves the original path in a large transverse passage in the middle of the wall and flows back into it at the beginning of the final intersection.
T. Freudig, S. Wendel
From the Gimpelhaus on a marked path into the Gimpelkar and along the foot of the wall (watch out for falling rocks - put on your helmet!) to the entrances (30 to 40 min.)
From the summit in about 50 minutes on the normal path, which is very uncomfortable in wet conditions, or, if you want to go a little further, on the forgotten normal path down to the foot of the wall (2-). Pay attention to the danger of falling rocks!
Rewarding route that is also suitable for beginners.
Toni Freudig
From the Gimpelhaus on a marked path into the Gimpelkar and along the foot of the wall (watch out for falling rocks - put on your helmet!) to the entrances (30 to 40 min.)
From the summit in about 50 minutes on the normal path, which is very uncomfortable in wet conditions, or, if you want to go a little further, on the forgotten normal path down to the foot of the wall (2-). Pay attention to the danger of falling rocks!
Plaisir-like climbing, which does not follow the logical line, but the best rock. Almost throughout (still) rough solid limestone. For a better overview, the Old Southeast Kate (7- or 6-, A0) is dotted in the topo.
T. Freudig, K. Straub
From the Gimpelhaus on a marked path into the Gimpelkar and along the foot of the wall (watch out for falling rocks - put on your helmet!) to the entrances (30 to 40 min.)
From the summit in about 50 minutes on the normal path, which is very uncomfortable in wet conditions, or, if you want to go a little further, on the forgotten normal path down to the foot of the wall (2-). Pay attention to the danger of falling rocks!
The to the rewarding south-east chimney is easy to reach from the normal route, so that the short route is often connected to a longer south wall route. The best access from the foot of the wall is on the lower part of the partly marked south-east wall route (3+, mostly 2 and3, top left of the south-east chimney).
E. Gretschmann, O. Leixl, b. Schwerin
From the Gimpelhaus on a marked path into the Gimpelkar and along the foot of the wall (watch out for falling rocks - put on your helmet!) to the entrances (30 to 40 min.)
From the summit in about 50 minutes on the normal path, which is very uncomfortable in wet conditions, or, if you want to go a little further, on the forgotten normal path down to the foot of the wall (2-). Pay attention to the danger of falling rocks!
Difficult climbing in mostly solid rock.
Toni Freudig, Ralf Tenbrink
From the Gimpelhaus on a marked path into the Gimpelkar and along the foot of the wall (watch out for falling rocks - put on your helmet!) to the entrances (30 to 40 min.)
From the summit in about 50 minutes on the normal path, which is very uncomfortable in wet conditions, or, if you want to go a little further, on the forgotten normal path down to the foot of the wall (2-). Pay attention to the danger of falling rocks!
Rewarding slab climbing over blunt, partly water eroded pillars. Ideal as an additional treat after a longer south face route. From the normal route easy to get on.
T. Freudig, W. Mayr
From the Gimpelhaus on a marked path into the Gimpelkar and along the foot of the wall (watch out for falling rocks - put on your helmet!) to the entrances (30 to 40 min.)
From the summit in about 50 minutes on the normal path, which is very uncomfortable in wet conditions, or, if you want to go a little further, on the forgotten normal path down to the foot of the wall (2-). Pay attention to the danger of falling rocks!
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