Sport climbing on top-level in the Kufstein region

The Kufstein region, nestled in the Zahmen and Kaiser mountains, is the Eastern entrance to the Tirolean Alps. Among these mountains, climbers will discover amazing possibilities – with more than 40 routes in all difficulty levels. There are several family-friendly or more challenging climbing gardens, adventurous via ferratas, interesting multi pitch routes in the Sparchen climbing area, two climbing gyms as well as a climbing sculpture. If you prefer the more comfortable way, take the Kaiserlift cable car to get from Kufstein into the Kaiser mountains or hike through the idyllic Kaisertal valley. Besides climbing and hiking, there are many other possibilities for leisure activities: running and cycling, visiting the six natural lakes, canyoning and stand-up paddling to visiting top-class cultural events, culinary, traditional feasts and much more.

4 recommendations for climbing gardens around Kufstein

• Sparchen climbing garden – Climbing in the “Schodagruabn” (transl. gravel pit): Visiting the Sparchen climbing garden is mandatory for every passionate sport climber if you are in the Kufstein region. It’s located behind the gravel pit in Kufstein, at the foot of a nearly 200m high wall. There are more than 100 very challenging routes, mostly graded between 8 and 10. Among them, there are also very popular routes such as “Tequila” (Tirol’s first 8a route), “Il piccolo orso”, “Metallica” or “Zauberlehrling”. Sparchen is one of Tirol’s historical climbing gardens where sport climbing was developed at the beginning. Because of its shady location, the climbing garden is recommended on very warm but also on rainy days.
• Geisterschmiedwand climbing garden: Besides Sparchen climbing garden, the Geisterschmiedwand climbing garden is the second hardest crag in Kufstein and also a historical milestone. Hans Dülfer was already climbing his first routes there and pro climbers such as Gerhard Hörhager, Stefan Fürst and Franz Kröll further developed the area by putting up some very hard routes. All together, there are more than 50 routes on the up to 80m high Southern wall. The rock quality is superb and the routes are graded between 6a and 9a. The ascent hike is very short.
• Achleiten climbing garden: The Achleiten climbing garden is particularly recommended to experienced sport climbers and extreme climbers! It is very versatile and technically demanding. The climbing garden is located on an altitude level of 1.100m and faces South. The type of rock is limestone. There are six sectors with routes between 5a and 9a.
• Multerkarwand climbing garden: The Multerkarwand climbing garden is ideal for beginners who want to start with alpine climbing. This alpine climbing garden is located at an altitude level of 1.440 m and offers routes from 3a to 7a. It’s recommended to beginners and slightly advanced climbers. There are also several multi pitches. The starting point is the Jägerwirt inn in Scheffau. The access hike is rather easy. Up to the Wegscheid-Hochalm, you can also take the mountain bike to get up.