- Climbing Disciplines
- Climbing Regions
- Climbing Holiday
The climbing area of the Vordere Karlspitze is divided into southwest-, south- and eastwall. On these walls are numerous tours of all levels and difficulty and some challenging climbs in a varied rock with alpine character.
The Gaudeamushütte mountain inn is recommended as a cozy base with its homemade delicacies and its sun terrace.
If you’re coming on the B178 road from Wörgl or Kufstein, take the Ellmau exit and then the first exit at the roundabout. Go straight down the road until you reach the turn-off (green signs) towards Kaisergebirge/Wochenbrunn. Turn left here and immediately right again. Now follow the road, a toll road, till you reach the Wochenbrunner Alm car park.
If you’re coming on the B178 from St. Johann, take the Ellmau exit and continue straight ahead until the Bauhof junction (green signposts towards Kaisergebirge/Wochenbrunn). Turn right here and immediately right again. Now follow the toll road till you reach the Wochenbrunner Alm car park.
Wochenbrunner Alm, Ellmau (1,085 m) - parking free of charge (toll road)
The southwest face of the Vordere Karlspitze offers a relatively short ascent and good rock quality. Most of the tours are secured with bolts - but some of them with larger distances between the bolts.
The “Wirtskante” (literally “inn edge”) is a well-secured Alpine sports climbing tour located on the largely very good rock of the Wilder Kaiser, featuring challenges that often have to be surmounted between the bolts. The bolts themselves are sponsored by the hosts at the Gaudeamushütte mountain inn, Anni and Martin Leichtfried, which is what gave the tour its name.
A. Schonner, B. Salvenmoser, M. Haselsberger; 2005
On trail 812, go past the Gaudeamushütte mountain inn and keep heading towards the Ellmauer Tor rock saddle. After the fork onto the Jubiläumssteig trail, turn into the Kübelkar cirque until you are directly below the south face of the Vordere Karlspitze. Two bolt tours begin on the fall line of the prominent pillar – “ABS” on the left, “Wirtskante” on the right.
Abseil via the route; descent as ascent.
Refreshment stops nearby: Gaudeamushütte, Wochenbrunner Alm
Schöne, alpine Sportkletterei mit anhaltend gleichbleibender Schwierigkeit.
A. Schonner, B. Salvenmoser; 2004
Ausgangspunkt ist die Wochenbrunner Alm, Ellmau (1.085 m)
Auf dem Weg 812, vorbei an der Gaudeamushütte, immer Richtung Ellmauer Tor. Nach der Abzweigung zum Jubiläumssteig ins Kübelkar abzweigen bis direkt unter die Südwand der Vorderen Karlspitze. In Falllinie des markanten Pfeilers beginnen 2 Bohrhakentouren links ABS, rechts Wirtskante.
Abseilen über die Tour; Abstieg wie Zustieg.
Einkehrmöglichkeiten in der Nähe: Gaudeamushütte, Wochenbrunner Alm