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Wilder Kaiser
Vordere Karlspitze

🄴
Basic information

The climbing area of the Vordere Karlspitze is divided into southwest-, south- and eastwall. On these walls are numerous tours of all levels and difficulty and some challenging climbs in a varied rock with alpine character.

The Gaudeamushütte mountain inn is recommended as a cozy base with its homemade delicacies and its sun terrace.


The following are three example tours. For more tours, see the "Alpin Wilder Kaiser” climbing guide by Markus Stadler (3rd edition Panico-Verlag 2021).

 

Grade
3+ - 7c
🞱
Altidude
1.800 m - 2.283 m
🚗
Wall height
120 m - 500 m
🕞
Anreise

Heading from Wörgl or Kufstein on the B178 road, take the first exit to Ellmau and then take the first exit at the roundabout. Drive straight on until you reach the junction (green signs - leading towards KaiserBad/Kaisergebirge/Wochenbrunn). Turn left here, then turn right immediately after passing the bus stop. Follow the (toll) road until you reach the Wochenbrunner Alm car park.

 

Heading from St. Johann on the B178 road, take the first exit to Ellmau and then drive straight on until you reach the junction (green signs – leading towards KaiserBad/Kaisergebirge/Wochenbrunn). Turn right here, then turn right again immediately after passing the bus stop. Follow the (toll) road until you reach the Wochenbrunner Alm car park.

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Öffentlicher Verkehr

In summer there is the “Hiking Shuttle Wochenbrunner Alm” from Ellmau or you go by taxi.

More Information on www.wilderkaiser.info

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Parking

Wochenbrunner Alm, Ellmau (1,085 m) - parking free of charge (toll road)

Gallery
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Basic information

The southwest face of the Vordere Karlspitze offers a relatively short ascent and good rock quality. Most of the tours are secured with bolts - but some of them with larger distances between the bolts.

 

Number of routes
2
Grade
6+ - 7-
🐲
Approach time
1 h 30 min - 2 h
🞂
Exposure
W, S, SW
👙
Best season
JAN
FEB
MÄR
APR
MAI
JUN
JUL
AUG
SEP
OKT
NOV
DEZ
Show routes
Wirtskante route
Seillänge
Length
Grad
1
35m
6-
2
40m
6
3
25m
1
4
40m
6+
5
40m
5
6
30m
6+
🄴
Basic information

The “Wirtskante” (literally “inn edge”) is a well-secured Alpine sports climbing tour located on the largely very good rock of the Wilder Kaiser, featuring challenges that often have to be surmounted between the bolts. The bolts themselves are sponsored by the hosts at the Gaudeamushütte mountain inn, Anni and Martin Leichtfried, which is what gave the tour its name.

🅊
Grade
6+
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6+
Number of pitches
6
🖜
Developer

A. Schonner, B. Salvenmoser, M. Haselsberger; 2005

🞱
Altitude
1.770 m
Route length
220 m
🐲
required climbing time
2 h
🔋
Blockhöhe max
180 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
1.085 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
1.980 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
1.980 m
🞂
Exposure
SW
Equipment
50m twinrope, 10 quickdraws, friends and rocks
Approach

Starting point: Wochenbrunner Alm, Ellmau (1,085 m)

 

On trail 812, go past the Gaudeamushütte mountain inn and keep heading towards the Ellmauer Tor rock saddle. After the fork onto the Jubiläumssteig trail, turn into the Kübelkar cirque until you are directly below the south face of the Vordere Karlspitze.

 

Entry point: Two bolt tours begin on the fall line of the prominent pillar – “ABS” on the left, “Wirtskante” on the right.

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
2 h
Descent

Abseil via the route; descent as ascent.

 

Refreshment stops nearby: Gaudeamushütte, Wochenbrunner Alm

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
1 h 30 min
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ABS route
Seillänge
Length
Grad
1
30m
6
2
40m
6
3
40m
7-
4
55m
2
5
45m
6+
6
25m
1
7
40m
6
8
30m
6+
9
35m
4
10
30m
7-
11
30m
6
🄴
Basic information

The "ABS" at the Karlspitze peak is quite the tour! Few others can match it in terms of views and variety. Just so you know, the initials ABS do not stand for anti-lock braking system, but for the initials of the first climbers. Braking would be no help at all in mastering the route’s eleven pitches (at most in two short passages). The course designed by Andy Schonner and Bernhard Salvenmoser skilfully guides climbers from slabs into cracks and finally into an insanely angular chimney in which full-throttle laybacks are needed to reach the finish. Climbers will need to be up to the challenge. The protection is good but still sometimes tricky and the rappelling back down via route is not exactly beginner-friendly. But if you keep all this in mind, you will surely have fun at the Gaudeamuspfeiler!

 

🅊
Grade
7-
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6
Number of pitches
11
🖜
Developer

A. Schonner, B. Salvenmoser; 2004

🞱
Altitude
1.800 m
Route length
400 m
🐲
required climbing time
3 h 30 min
🔋
Blockhöhe max
350 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
1.085 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
2 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
2.100 m
🞂
Exposure
SW
Equipment
50m twinrope, 10 quickdraws, friends and rocks
Approach

Start: Wochenbrunner Alm, Ellmau (1,085 m)

 

On trail 812, go past the Gaudeamushütte mountain inn and keep heading towards the Ellmauer Tor rock saddle. After the fork onto the Jubiläumssteig trail, turn into the Kübelkar cirque until you are directly below the south face of the Vordere Karlspitze.

 

Entry point: Two bolt tours begin on the fall line of the prominent pillar – “ABS” on the left, “Wirtskante” on the right.

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
2 h
Descent

Abseil via the route; descent as ascent.

 

Refreshment stops nearby: Gaudeamushütte, Wochenbrunner Alm

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
1 h
Ratingi
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🄴
Basic information

The east rock face features compact rock compared to the southwest rock face. The routes here have been in use for many years and are often climbable in spring already.

 

Number of routes
1
Grade
8 - 8
🐲
Approach time
1 h 30 min - 2 h
🞂
Exposure
O, SO
👙
Best season
JAN
FEB
MÄR
APR
MAI
JUN
JUL
AUG
SEP
OKT
NOV
DEZ
Show routes
Sportherz route
Seillänge
Length
Grad
1
25m
7
2
20m
8-
3
20m
8 (A0)
4
50m
5
5
45m
7
6
40m
7+
7
15m
6+
8
25m
7+
9
25m
6
10
35m
5-
11
30m
4-
🄴
Basic information

Already a classic of Alpine sport climbing, it was first climbed as early as 1985. The route extends through prime rock. The majority is either compact rock face or slab climbing. The route was revamped in 2004 to feature solid glue-in bolts. The protection is mostly quite good, but in some passages dedicated lead climbing is required.

🅊
Grade
8
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
7+
Number of pitches
11
🖜
Developer

M. Grulich, S. Geissler und W. Wick, 1985

🞱
Altitude
1.820 m
Route length
280 m
🐲
required climbing time
6 h
🔋
Blockhöhe max
260 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
1.085 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
2.116 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
2.116 m
🞂
Exposure
SO
Equipment
60m twinrope, 12 quickdraws, friends & rocks medium size
Approach

Starting point: Wochenbrunner Alm, Ellmau (1,085 m)

 

Stay on the forest road and later on trail 812 past the Gaudeamushütte mountain hut towards the Ellmauer Tor rock saddle. After the turnoff to the Jubiläumssteig trail, proceed past the Kübelkar cirque and continue towards the Ellmauer Tor rock saddle until directly under the striking Vordere Karlspitze rock face.

 

Entry point: There is a short crack. Up and to the left there is a prominent dark overhang that is often wet.

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
1 h 30 min
Descent

Rappel down via the Matejak chimney (rappel route) and then via the grassy plateau area on the trail.

The return descent is the same as the approach.

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
1 h 30 min
Ratingi
User Ratingi

Meine Bewertung:

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