Share:Facebook

Vordere Karlspitze

🄴
Basic information

The climbing area of the Vordere Karlspitze is divided into southwest-, south- and eastwall. On these walls are numerous tours of all levels and difficulty and some challenging climbs in a varied rock with alpine character.

The Gaudeamushütte mountain inn is recommended as a cozy base with its homemade delicacies and its sun terrace.

Number of routes
2
Grade
3+ - 7c
Rock type
Kalk
🞱
Altidude
1800 m - 2283 m
🚗
Wall height
120 m - 500 m
🕞
Arrival and public transport

If you’re coming on the B178 road from Wörgl or Kufstein, take the Ellmau exit and then the first exit at the roundabout. Go straight down the road until you reach the turn-off (green signs) towards Kaisergebirge/Wochenbrunn. Turn left here and immediately right again. Now follow the road, a toll road, till you reach the Wochenbrunner Alm car park.

If you’re coming on the B178 from St. Johann, take the Ellmau exit and continue straight ahead until the Bauhof junction (green signposts towards Kaisergebirge/Wochenbrunn). Turn right here and immediately right again. Now follow the toll road till you reach the Wochenbrunner Alm car park.

 

Public transport:

🐈
Parking

Wochenbrunner Alm, Ellmau (1,085 m) - parking free of charge (toll road)

GPS position

Vordere Karlsspitze Südostwand

🄴
Basic information

The southwest face of the Vordere Karlspitze offers a relatively short ascent and good rock quality. Most of the tours are secured with bolts - but some of them with larger distances between the bolts.

 

Number of routes
2
Grade
6+ - 6a+
🐲
Approach time
1 h 30 min - 2 h
🞂
Exposure
SW, S, W
👙
Best season
JUN JUL AUG SEP OKT
Show routes
Wirtskante  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
35m
5b+
2
40m
5c
3
25m
1
4
40m
6a
5
40m
5a+
6
30m
6a
🄴
Basic information

The “Wirtskante” (literally “inn edge”) is a well-secured Alpine sports climbing tour located on the largely very good rock of the Wilder Kaiser, featuring challenges that often have to be surmounted between the bolts. The bolts themselves are sponsored by the hosts at the Gaudeamushütte mountain inn, Anni and Martin Leichtfried, which is what gave the tour its name.

🅊
Grade
6+
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6+
Number of pitches
6
🖜
Developer

A. Schonner, B. Salvenmoser, M. Haselsberger; 2005

🞱
Altitude
1750 m
Route length
220 m
🐲
required climbing time
2 h
🔋
Blockhöhe max
180 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
1085 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
1980 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
1980 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
50 meters double rope, 10 quickdraws, ev. cams and nuts
Approach

On trail 812, go past the Gaudeamushütte mountain inn and keep heading towards the Ellmauer Tor rock saddle. After the fork onto the Jubiläumssteig trail, turn into the Kübelkar cirque until you are directly below the south face of the Vordere Karlspitze. Two bolt tours begin on the fall line of the prominent pillar – “ABS” on the left, “Wirtskante” on the right.

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
2 h
Descent

Abseil via the route; descent as ascent.

 

Refreshment stops nearby: Gaudeamushütte, Wochenbrunner Alm

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
1 h 30 min
Ratingi
Nicht bewertet
User Ratingi

Meine Bewertung:

Bewerte die Attraktivität dieser Kletterroute:
Infos zum Bewertungssystem
Vielen Dank für deine Bewertung!
ABS  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
30m
5c
2
40m
5c
3
40m
6b
4
55m
2
5
45m
6a
6
25m
1
7
40m
5c
8
30m
6a
9
35m
4a
10
30m
6b
11
30m
5c
🄴
Basic information

Schöne, alpine Sportkletterei mit anhaltend gleichbleibender Schwierigkeit.

🅊
Grade
6a+
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6a+
Number of pitches
11
🖜
Developer

A. Schonner, B. Salvenmoser; 2004

🞱
Altitude
1820 m
Route length
400 m
🐲
required climbing time
3 h 30 min
🔋
Blockhöhe max
350 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
1085 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
2 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
2100 m
🞂
Exposure
SW
Equipment
60 Meter Doppelseil, 10 Exen, ev. Stopper und Freinds, Helm;
Approach

Ausgangspunkt ist die Wochenbrunner Alm, Ellmau (1.085 m)

 

Auf dem Weg 812, vorbei an der Gaudeamushütte, immer Richtung Ellmauer Tor. Nach der Abzweigung zum Jubiläumssteig ins Kübelkar abzweigen bis direkt unter die Südwand der Vorderen Karlspitze. In Falllinie des markanten Pfeilers beginnen 2 Bohrhakentouren links ABS, rechts Wirtskante.

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
2 h
Descent

Abseilen über die Tour; Abstieg wie Zustieg.

 

Einkehrmöglichkeiten in der Nähe: Gaudeamushütte, Wochenbrunner Alm

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
1 h
Ratingi
Nicht bewertet
User Ratingi

Meine Bewertung:

Bewerte die Attraktivität dieser Kletterroute:
Infos zum Bewertungssystem
Vielen Dank für deine Bewertung!
App downloaden

Climbers Paradise APP

The Climbers’ Paradise Tirol App digitally offers all relevant information about the 16 top spots in Climber’s Paradise Tirol.

If you need accommodation in Tirol, you will find recommendations – from campsites or private rooms to 5-star-hotels. Tyrol is a very sport centric region which means climbers are welcome everywhere! The alpine world of Tirol offers everything what you could wish for a perfect holiday - with Climbers’ Paradise Tirol, you have all information at a glance!

Download now