Share:

Wilder Kaiser
Vordere Karlspitze

🄴
Basic information

The climbing area of the Vordere Karlspitze is divided into southwest-, south- and eastwall. On these walls are numerous tours of all levels and difficulty and some challenging climbs in a varied rock with alpine character.

The Gaudeamushütte mountain inn is recommended as a cozy base with its homemade delicacies and its sun terrace.

Number of routes
2
Grade
3+ - 7c
🞱
Altidude
1.800 m - 2.283 m
🚗
Wall height
120 m - 500 m
🕞
Arrival and public transport

If you’re coming on the B178 road from Wörgl or Kufstein, take the Ellmau exit and then the first exit at the roundabout. Go straight down the road until you reach the turn-off (green signs) towards Kaisergebirge/Wochenbrunn. Turn left here and immediately right again. Now follow the road, a toll road, till you reach the Wochenbrunner Alm car park.

If you’re coming on the B178 from St. Johann, take the Ellmau exit and continue straight ahead until the Bauhof junction (green signposts towards Kaisergebirge/Wochenbrunn). Turn right here and immediately right again. Now follow the toll road till you reach the Wochenbrunner Alm car park.

🐈
Parking

Wochenbrunner Alm, Ellmau (1,085 m) - parking free of charge (toll road)

GPS position
Gallery
🄴
Basic information

The southwest face of the Vordere Karlspitze offers a relatively short ascent and good rock quality. Most of the tours are secured with bolts - but some of them with larger distances between the bolts.

 

Number of routes
2
Grade
6a - 6a+
🐲
Approach time
1 h 30 min - 2 h
🞂
Exposure
W, S, SW
👙
Best season
JAN
FEB
MÄR
APR
MAI
JUN
JUL
AUG
SEP
OKT
NOV
DEZ
Show routes
Wirtskante
Seillänge
Length
Grad
1
35m
5b+
2
40m
5c
3
25m
1
4
40m
6a
5
40m
5a+
6
30m
6a
🄴
Basic information

The “Wirtskante” (literally “inn edge”) is a well-secured Alpine sports climbing tour located on the largely very good rock of the Wilder Kaiser, featuring challenges that often have to be surmounted between the bolts. The bolts themselves are sponsored by the hosts at the Gaudeamushütte mountain inn, Anni and Martin Leichtfried, which is what gave the tour its name.

🅊
Grade
6a
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6a
Number of pitches
6
🖜
Developer

A. Schonner, B. Salvenmoser, M. Haselsberger; 2005

🞱
Altitude
1.770 m
Route length
220 m
🐲
required climbing time
2 h
🔋
Blockhöhe max
180 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
1.085 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
1.980 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
1.980 m
🞂
Exposure
SW
Equipment
50 meters double rope, 10 quickdraws, ev. cams and nuts
Approach

On trail 812, go past the Gaudeamushütte mountain inn and keep heading towards the Ellmauer Tor rock saddle. After the fork onto the Jubiläumssteig trail, turn into the Kübelkar cirque until you are directly below the south face of the Vordere Karlspitze.

 

Two bolt tours begin on the fall line of the prominent pillar – “ABS” on the left, “Wirtskante” on the right.

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
2 h
Descent

Abseil via the route; descent as ascent.

 

Refreshment stops nearby: Gaudeamushütte, Wochenbrunner Alm

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
1 h 30 min
GPS position
Long: 12.31916, Lat: 47.54114
Ratingi
User Ratingi

Meine Bewertung:

Bewerte die Attraktivität dieser Kletterroute:
Infos zum Bewertungssystem
Vielen Dank für deine Bewertung!
ABS
Seillänge
Length
Grad
1
30m
5c
2
40m
5c
3
40m
6b
4
55m
2
5
45m
6a
6
25m
1
7
40m
5c
8
30m
6a
9
35m
4a
10
30m
6b
11
30m
5c
🅊
Grade
6a+
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6a+
Number of pitches
11
🖜
Developer

A. Schonner, B. Salvenmoser; 2004

🞱
Altitude
1.800 m
Route length
400 m
🐲
required climbing time
3 h 30 min
🔋
Blockhöhe max
350 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
1.085 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
2 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
2.100 m
🞂
Exposure
SW
Equipment
50 meters double rope, 10 quickdraws, ev. cams and nuts
Approach

On trail 812, go past the Gaudeamushütte mountain inn and keep heading towards the Ellmauer Tor rock saddle. After the fork onto the Jubiläumssteig trail, turn into the Kübelkar cirque until you are directly below the south face of the Vordere Karlspitze.

 

Two bolt tours begin on the fall line of the prominent pillar – “ABS” on the left, “Wirtskante” on the right.

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
2 h
Descent

Abseil via the route; descent as ascent.

 

Refreshment stops nearby: Gaudeamushütte, Wochenbrunner Alm

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
1 h
GPS position
Long: 12.31916, Lat: 47.54114
Ratingi
User Ratingi

Meine Bewertung:

Bewerte die Attraktivität dieser Kletterroute:
Infos zum Bewertungssystem
Vielen Dank für deine Bewertung!
Number of routes
1
Grade
8 - 8
🐲
Approach time
1 h 30 min - 2 h
🞂
Exposure
O, SO
👙
Best season
JAN
FEB
MÄR
APR
MAI
JUN
JUL
AUG
SEP
OKT
NOV
DEZ
Show routes
Sportherz
Seillänge
Length
Grad
1
25m
6c+
2
20m
6c+
3
20m
7a (A0)
4
50m
5a
5
45m
6b
6
40m
6b+
7
15m
6a+
8
25m
6b+
9
25m
6a
10
35m
4
11
30m
4
🅊
Grade
8
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6b+
Number of pitches
11
🖜
Developer

M. Grulich, S. Geissler und W. Wick, 1985

🞱
Altitude
1.820 m
Route length
280 m
🐲
required climbing time
6 h
🔋
Blockhöhe max
260 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
1.085 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
2.116 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
2.116 m
🞂
Exposure
SO
Equipment
2 x 60 m, 12 Expressen + mittlere Friends und mittlere Rocks
Approach

Vom Parkplatz über die Forststraße zur Gaudeamushütte. Hier immer weiter dem ausgeschilderten Weg Richtung Ellmauer Tor bis unter die markante Wand der Vorderen Karlspitze folgen. Der Einstieg befindet sich bei einem kurzen Riss, links oberhalb ist ein markanter dunkler Überhang, der oft nass ist. (ca. 1h 20 Minuten Gehzeit, von der Wochenbrunneralm)

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
1 h 30 min
Descent

wie Zustieg

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
1 h 30 min
GPS position
Long: 12.31909, Lat: 47.54112
Ratingi
User Ratingi

Meine Bewertung:

Bewerte die Attraktivität dieser Kletterroute:
Infos zum Bewertungssystem
Vielen Dank für deine Bewertung!