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Wilder Kaiser
Treffauer

🄴
Basic information

The Treffauer southwest rock face is an ideal climbing area for shorter days especially in spring and autumn. The approach rewards climbers with fantastic views to the south. The Treffauer north rock face offers plenty of pleasant, cool spots in the shade on hot summer days. Climbing tours range from difficulty ratings 4-7 and are completely secured with bolts.


The following are three example tours. For more tours, see the "Alpin Wilder Kaiser” climbing guide by Markus Stadler (3rd edition Panico-Verlag 2021).

Number of routes
5
Grade
5 - 7+
🞱
Altidude
2.304 m - 1.900 m
🚗
Wall height
130 m - 280 m
🕞
Anreise

Heading from Wörgl, Kufstein or St. Johann on the B178 road, take the exit to Scheffau. When you reach the Gasthof Maikircher inn located in the village of Scheffau, turn right in the direction of the Gasthof Jägerwirt inn. Follow the road until you reach the car park Wegscheid below the Gasthof Jägerwirt.

🐈
Parking

Car park Wegscheid (below the Gasthof Jägerwirt inn), Scheffau (883 m) – pay & display

🄴
Basic information

The Treffauer southwest rock face (Multerkar) is an ideal climbing area for shorter days especially in spring and autumn. The approach rewards climbers with fantastic views to the south.

Number of routes
3
Grade
6 - 7-
🐲
Approach time
1 h 15 min - 1 h 30 min
🞂
Exposure
W, S, SW
👙
Best season
JAN
FEB
MÄR
APR
MAI
JUN
JUL
AUG
SEP
OKT
NOV
DEZ
Show routes
Sappl-Zott Tour für Abenteurer route
Seillänge
Length
Grad
1
35m
4
2
45m
6
3
30m
5
4
20m
5
5
40m
2
6
30m
5+
7
35m
5
8
50m
5
🄴
Basic information

Mr. Sappl and Mr. Zott have prepared quite an adventurous climb here. The chimney, which forms the heart of the "Sappl-Zott - Tour for Adventurers," attracts the attention of Alpine climbers as they ascend. Well secured, it's a pure joy to ascend through this deep cut on the Treffauer mountain. For chimney climbing par excellence, look no further! With interesting phases throughout, the result is a well-rounded and adventurous tour likely to whet the appetite for longer Alpine tours.

🅊
Grade
6
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6-
Number of pitches
9
🖜
Developer

M. Sapp., H. Zott; 2007

🞱
Altitude
1.430 m
Route length
240 m
🐲
required climbing time
3 h
🔋
Blockhöhe max
150 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
883 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
1.580 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
1.580 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Equipment
60m twinrope, 10 quickdraws
Approach

Starting point: car par Wegscheid below Gasthof Jägerwirt, Scheffau (883 m)

 

Follow trail no. 826 past the Wegscheid-Niederalm and Wegscheid-Hochalm to the intersection with the Wilder-Kaiser-Steig trail. Here, go right from the mountain pines steeply uphill over the moraine to the foot of the rock face at Treffauer mountain.

 

Keep right at the gravel field.

The entrance is located at the lowest point of the rock face in the fall line of the clearly visible chimney.

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
1 h 30 min
Descent

The rappel route is located on the orographic right of the tour. Descent same as approach.

 

Refreshment stop nearby: Gasthof Jägerwirt Inn

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
1 h
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RWI route
Seillänge
Length
Grad
1
30m
5+
2
50m
5+
3
40m
5-
4
35m
6
5
30m
5+
6
40m
6-
7
30m
1
8
25m
5
9
30m
6-
🄴
Basic information

This variety-rich layback route extends on mostly compact, rather flat rock, interspersed with short Schrofen passages and walking terrain.

 

🅊
Grade
6
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6-
Number of pitches
10
🖜
Developer

M. Sappl., H. Zott; 2008

🞱
Altitude
1.470 m
Route length
350 m
🐲
required climbing time
3 h
🔋
Blockhöhe max
280 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
883 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
1.750 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
1.750 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Equipment
60m twinrope, 12 quickdraws
Approach

Starting point: car par Wegscheid below Gasthof Jägerwirt, Scheffau (883 m)

 

Follow trail no. 826 past the Wegscheid-Niederalm and Wegscheid-Hochalm to the intersection with the Wilder-Kaiser-Steig trail. Here, go right from the mountain pines steeply uphill over the moraine to the foot of the rock face at Treffauer mountain.

 

At the gravel field, keep right, then head left to a small ledge with a wooden signboard.

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
1 h 30 min
Descent

Rappel back down between the ‘Entdeckungsreise’ and RWI climbing routes or descend on foot via the normal route of the Treffauer mountain. From the exit, head through a section of mountain pine into the Multerkar cirque. Then head left across a steep meadow towards a dark, cave-like hole. Pass underneath this section and, after a few minutes, proceed across a small saddle above the mountain pines. From here, traverse horizontally to the normal route leading up the Treffauer mountain. It takes about 1 hour to reach the entry point; descent as approach.

Tip: If descending on foot, leave your backpack at the Wilder-Kaiser-Steig trail.

 

Refreshment stop nearby: Gasthof Jägerwirt Inn

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
1 h
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November Sun route
Seillänge
Length
Grad
1
20m
6
2
40m
5
3
30m
6
4
20m
6+
5
35m
7-
🄴
Basic information

Featuring a rather adventurous entry point, a grassy continuation section and an exhilarating final section. Towards the top, the November Sun route becomes increasingly beautiful. The entry point is located just to the right of a surveyor's mark. Things get challenging from the very start. The first few pitches are a bit overgrown but from the fourth this is all forgotten. A series of handles up a steep face leads to a beautiful slab, where you’ll need to master a small overhang with good foot technique. Nice moves! If the autumn sun continues to shine longer in the afternoon after you’ve rappelled back down, there are many more routes right next door to try.

🅊
Grade
7-
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6
Number of pitches
5
🖜
Developer

M. Sappl, H. Zott; 2015

🞱
Altitude
1.440 m
Route length
145 m
🐲
required climbing time
2 h
🔋
Blockhöhe max
280 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
883 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
1.560 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
1.560 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Equipment
50m twinrope, 12 quickdraws
Approach

Starting point: car par Wegscheid below Gasthof Jägerwirt, Scheffau (883 m)

 

Follow trail no. 826 past the Wegscheid-Niederalm and Wegscheid-Hochalm to the intersection with the Wilder-Kaiser-Steig trail. Here, go right from the mountain pines steeply uphill over the moraine to the foot of the rock face at Treffauer mountain.

 

The entrance is located at the lowest part of the Multerkarwand rock face to the left of the survey point.

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
1 h 30 min
Descent

Abseil along the tour; descent same as approach

 

Refreshment stop nearby: Gasthof Jägerwirt Inn

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
1 h
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🄴
Basic information

The Treffauer north rock face offers plenty of pleasant, cool spots in the shade on hot summer days. Climbing tours range from difficulty ratings 4-7 and are completely secured with bolts.

Number of routes
2
Grade
5 - 7+
🐲
Approach time
2 h - 2 h 30 min
🞂
Exposure
N, NW
👙
Best season
JAN
FEB
MÄR
APR
MAI
JUN
JUL
AUG
SEP
OKT
NOV
DEZ
Show routes
Via Max route
Seillänge
Length
Grad
1
45m
2
2
45m
5+
3
35m
6
4
25m
7+
5
25m
6+
🄴
Basic information

This very well secured Alpine sport climbing route extends through nearly perfect rock. The key passage is a slab passage, which turns into an overhang.

🅊
Grade
7+
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6+
Number of pitches
5
🖜
Developer

M. Sappl, T. Pletzer; 2015

🞱
Altitude
1.700 m
Route length
175 m
🐲
required climbing time
2 h
🔋
Blockhöhe max
250 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
833 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
1.950 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
1.950 m
🞂
Exposure
NW
Equipment
50m twinrope or 80m rope, 11 quickdraws
Approach

Starting point: car par Wegscheid below Gasthof Jägerwirt, Scheffau (883 m)

 

Follow trail no. 826 past the Wegscheid-Niederalm and Wegscheid-Hochalm to the intersection with the Wilder-Kaiser-Steig trail. Continue north past the waterfall into the Schneekar cirque.

 

The entrance is 50 metres to the left of the "König der Löwen."

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
2 h
Descent

Abseil along the tour; descent same as ascent

 

Refreshment stop nearby: Gasthof Jägerwirt Inn

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
2 h
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König der Löwen route
Seillänge
Length
Grad
1
30m
3
2
30m
4
3
30m
4-
4
30m
3+ oder Var. 5+
5
35m
4+
6
40m
4+
7
35m
5
8
30m
5
9
45m
5-
🄴
Basic information

This is a very well secured beginner’s route for Alpine sport climbing.

🅊
Grade
5
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
5
Number of pitches
9
🖜
Developer

M. Schneider, T. Pletzer; 2011

🞱
Altitude
1.700 m
Route length
300 m
🐲
required climbing time
2 h 30 min
🔋
Blockhöhe max
250 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
883 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
1.950 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
1.950 m
🞂
Exposure
NW
Equipment
50m rope, 10 quickdraws
Approach

Starting point: car par Wegscheid below Gasthof Jägerwirt, Scheffau (883 m)

 

Follow trail no. 826 past the Wegscheid-Niederalm and Wegscheid-Hochalm to the intersection with the Wilder-Kaiser-Steig trail. Continue north past the waterfall into the Schneekar cirque.

 

The entrance is located a few metres north of the entrance to the Treffauer mountain at the hourglass (lion).

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
2 h
Descent

Ascend via the normal route from the Treffauer mountain to the entry point. Reverse the route to return.

 

Refreshment stop nearby: Gasthof Jägerwirt Inn

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
2 h 30 min
Ratingi
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