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Wilder Kaiser
Sonneck

🄴
Basic information

With its attractive south face, the Sonneck at 2,260m is one of the most recently discovered climbing destinations in the Wilder Kaiser region. Numerous routes, which are secured with bolts, lead through prime rock to just below the summit. Note: These are Alpine routes The rock face is up to 450m high.

In case of emergency, a 50m twinrope is necessary for rappelling.


The following are three example tours. For more tours, see the "Alpin Wilder Kaiser” climbing guide by Markus Stadler (3rd edition Panico-Verlag 2021).

Number of routes
3
Grade
6+ (A0) - 8-
🞱
Altidude
1.800 m - 2.260 m
🚗
Wall height
200 m - 450 m
🕞
Anreise

Heading from Wörgl, Kufstein or St. Johann on the B178 road, take the exit to Scheffau. When you reach the Gasthof Maikircher inn located in the village of Scheffau, turn right in the direction of the Gasthof Jägerwirt inn. Follow the road until you reach the car park Wegscheid below the Gasthof Jägerwirt inn.

🐈
Parking

Car park Wegscheid below the Gasthof Jägerwirt inn, Scheffau (883 m) – pay & display

🄴
Basic information

The Sonneck, with a height of 2,260m and its south face, is one of the most recently discovered climbing destinations on the Wilder Kaiser. Numerous routes secured with bolts lead through perfect rock to below the summit. But they are nevertheless alpine routes. The wall height is up to 450m.

In case of emergency a 50m double rope is necessary for abseiling.

Number of routes
3
Grade
6+/A0 - 8-
🐲
Approach time
2 h - 2 h 30 min
🞂
Exposure
S
👙
Best season
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FEB
MÄR
APR
MAI
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OKT
NOV
DEZ
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Delicatesse route
Seillänge
Length
Grad
1
42m
6
2
35m
6+
3
45m
7-
4
45m
2
🄴
Basic information

Enjoy wonderful rock face climbing in prime rock. The tour is secured throughout with bolts but there are still some tricky passages. We advise the use of mobile safety equipment. The tour finishes on the grassy plateau area near the entry point to HaZo Fantastica climb.

🅊
Grade
6a+
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6
Number of pitches
4
🖜
Developer

T. Niedermühlbichler, A. Angerer; 2008

🞱
Altitude
1.800 m
Route length
120 m
🐲
required climbing time
2 h
🔋
Blockhöhe max
100 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
883 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
1.950 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
2.260 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
50m twinrope, 15 quickdraws, one set rocks, friends small and medium size
Approach

Starting point: Car park below the Gasthof Jägerwirt Inn, Scheffau (883m)

 

Take trail 826 past the Wegscheid-Hochalm and the junction with the Wilder-Kaiser-Steig (823), always heading north to the waterfall (rucksack depot).

From here, continue on trail 826 towards the Treffauer mountain until you reach its junction. Next, continue across the gravel cirque to the foot of the Sonneck rock face.

 

The entrance is located just a few metres to the left of the entry point to the "Kraxengrat” chimney system, which starts at the lowest point of the gravel cirque.

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
2 h
Descent

Abseil via the route. Descent as ascent.

 

Refreshment stop nearby: Gasthof Jägerwirt Inn

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
2 h
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HaZo Fantastica route
Seillänge
Length
Grad
1
45m
5-
2
50m
6
3
35m
7
4
40m
7+
5
35m
8-
6
45m
4+
7
50m
5
8
30m
6
🄴
Basic information

The entry point of this tour begins at the large grassy plateau area at about 1,950m. For the approach to HaZo Fantastica, we recommend taking the ‘Delicatesse’ route. In combination with the Delicatesse route, the HaZo Fantastica is one of the best routes in the Wilder Kaiser region in this degree of difficulty. Climb on slab and rock faces with a consistent level of difficulty.

🅊
Grade
8-
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
7-
Number of pitches
8
🖜
Developer

H. Haselsberger, H. Zott; 2002

🞱
Altitude
1.950 m
Route length
380 m
🐲
required climbing time
4 h
🔋
Blockhöhe max
300 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
883 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
2.100 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
2.260 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
50m twinrope, 10 quickdraws, one set rocks, friends small and medium size
Approach

Starting point: Car park below the Gasthof Jägerwirt Inn, Scheffau (883m)

 

Take trail 826 past the Wegscheid-Hochalm and the junction with the Wilder-Kaiser-Steig (823), always heading north to the waterfall (rucksack depot).

From here, continue on trail 826 towards the Treffauer mountain until you reach its junction. Next, continue across the gravel cirque to the foot of the Sonneck rock face.

 

You may continue your approach via the Kraxengrat ridge, the Delicatesse route, or the Sonnenpfeiler route up to the grassy plateau area.

The entry point is located in the left section of the slab zone below a small overhang secured with hourglass loops.

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
2 h
Descent

On the marked trail to the west and after a short uphill climb in the direction of the Kopfkraxen mountain (approx. 15 min) follow the signs down the Wiesberg mountain.

At Sonnenstein follow the signs to the waterfall (approx. 1h 30 min). Further descent like approach.

 

Refreshment stop nearby: Gasthof Jägerwirt Inn

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
2 h 45 min
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Sonnenpfeiler route
Seillänge
Length
Grad
1
35m
6
2
30m
3
3
40m
4
4
20m
6/A0 (frei 8+)
5
40m
6+
6
25m
1
7
35m
5
8
40m
5
9
35m
5+
10
50m
5
11
35m
4
12
35m
4
13
50m
5
14
30m
6
🄴
Basic information

To be honest, the Sonnenpfeiler route won’t immediately win any beauty prizes. Perhaps a sunny day would be better suited for a fair assessment than a mostly rainy one, however. After all, the sun, which has been painted expertly at the first pitch, shows climbers where they should begin their ascent! So perhaps climbing when everything is wet is a bad idea. But no matter, those capable of rising above the initial difficulties will eventually be greeted by the sun—even on a cloudy day. One small drawback: Even in good weather, the fourth pitch features a traverse that cannot be climbed freely except by experts (A0). In free climbing, you have to be capable of the upper 8th grade, but if you use the bolts then the grade is 6A0.

🅊
Grade
6+/A0
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6
Number of pitches
14
🖜
Developer

H. Haselsberger, H. Praschberger; 1999/2000

🞱
Altitude
1.800 m
Route length
700 m
🐲
required climbing time
7 h
🔋
Blockhöhe max
450 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
883 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
2.100 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
2.260 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
50m twinrope, 15 quickdraws, one set rocks, friends small and medium size
Approach

Starting point: Car park below the Gasthof Jägerwirt Inn, Scheffau (883m)

 

Take trail 826 past the Wegscheid-Hochalm and the junction with the Wilder-Kaiser-Steig (823), always heading north to the waterfall (rucksack depot).

From here, continue on trail 826 towards the Treffauer mountain until you reach its junction. Next, continue across the gravel cirque to the foot of the Sonneck rock face.

 

The entrance is directly on the right of the "Kraxengrat" (chimney system) with a painted yellow sun.

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
2 h
Descent

On the marked trail to the west and after a short uphill climb in the direction of the Kopfkraxen mountain (approx. 15 min) follow the signs down the Wiesberg mountain.

At Sonnenstein follow the signs to the waterfall (approx. 1h 30 min). Further descent like approach.

 

Refreshment stop nearby: Gasthof Jägerwirt Inn

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
2 h 45 min
Ratingi
User Ratingi

Meine Bewertung:

Bewerte die Attraktivität dieser Kletterroute:
Infos zum Bewertungssystem
Vielen Dank für deine Bewertung!