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Sonneck

🄴
Basic information

The Sonneck, with a height of 2,260m and its south face, is one of the most recently discovered climbing destinations on the Wilder Kaiser. Numerous routes secured with bolts lead through perfect rock to below the summit. But they are nevertheless alpine routes. The wall height is up to 450m.

In case of emergency a 50m double rope is necessary for abseiling.


Here are three example tours - further tours in the climbing guide "Alpin Wilder Kaiser" by Markus Stadler (2nd edition Panico-Verlag 2017).

Number of routes
3
Grade
3 - 7b
Rock type
Kalk
🞱
Altidude
1800 m - 2260 m
🚗
Wall height
200 m - 450 m
🕞
Arrival and public transport

Heading from Wörgl, Kufstein or St. Johann on the B178 road, take the exit to Scheffau. When you reach the Gasthof Maikircher inn located in the village of Scheffau, turn right in the direction of the Gasthof Jägerwirt inn. Follow the road until you reach the car park below the Gasthof Jägerwirt.

🐈
Parking

Car park below the Gasthof Jägerwirt inn, Scheffau (883 m) – free

GPS position

Sonneck (Südwand)

🄴
Basic information

The Sonneck, with a height of 2,260m and its south face, is one of the most recently discovered climbing destinations on the Wilder Kaiser. Numerous routes secured with bolts lead through perfect rock to below the summit. But they are nevertheless alpine routes. The wall height is up to 450m.

In case of emergency a 50m double rope is necessary for abseiling.

Number of routes
3
Grade
6a - ?
🐲
Approach time
2 h - 2 h 30 min
🞂
Exposure
S
👙
Best season
JUN JUL AUG SEP OKT
Show routes
Delicatesse  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
42m
5c+
2
35m
6a
3
45m
6a+
4
45m
2
🄴
Basic information

Wonderful wall climbing in best rock. The tour is continuously secured with bolts - but not "plaisier“. Mobile gear is advisable. The tour ends on the grass terrace in the HaZo Fantastica entrance area.

🅊
Grade
?
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
5c+
Number of pitches
4
🖜
Developer

T. Niedermühlbichler, A. Angerer; 2008

🞱
Altitude
1800 m
Route length
120 m
🐲
required climbing time
2 h
🔋
Blockhöhe max
100 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
883 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
1950 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
2260 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
60m Doppelseil, 11 Exen, Stopper, kleinere und mittelrgroße Friends.
Approach

Starting point: Car park below the Gasthof Jägerwirt Inn, Scheffau.

Take trail 826 past the Wegscheid-Hochalm and the junction with the Wilder-Kaiser-Steig (823), always heading north to the waterfall (rucksack depot). From here continue on trail 826 towards Treffauer until it branches off. Now over the gravel cirque to the base of the Sonneck wall.

The entrance is a few metres to the left of the entrance "Kraxengrat" - chimney system, starting at the lowest point of the gravel cirque.

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
2 h
Descent

Abseil via the route. Descent as ascent.

 

Refreshment stops nearby: Gasthof Jägerwirt Inn

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
2 h
Ratingi
Nicht bewertet
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HaZo Fantastica  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
45m
4c
2
30m
5c+
3
35m
6b
4
40m
6b+
5
35m
6c+
6
45m
4b
7
50m
5a
8
30m
5c
🄴
Basic information

The start of the tour is on the large grass terrace at about 1950m. For the access to the HaZo Fantastica we recommend the route Delicatesse. The HaZo Fantastica in combination with the Route Delicatesse is one of the best „Kaiserroutes“ in this degree of difficulty - slab and wall climbing with homogeneous difficulties.

🅊
Grade
6c+
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6a+
Number of pitches
8
🖜
Developer

H. Haselsberger, H. Zott; 2002

🞱
Altitude
1950 m
Route length
380 m
🐲
required climbing time
4 h
🔋
Blockhöhe max
300 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
883 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
2100 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
2260 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
50 meters double rope, 10 quickdraws, ev. cams and nuts
Approach

Starting point: Car park below the Gasthof Jägerwirt Inn, Scheffau.

Take trail 826 past the Wegscheid-Hochalm and the junction with the Wilder-Kaiser-Steig (823), always heading north to the waterfall (rucksack depot). From here continue on trail 826 towards Treffauer until it branches off. Now over the gravel cirque to the base of the Sonneck wall.

The further access leads either over the Kraxengrat, the Route Delicatesse or the Sonnenpfeiler to the grass terrace.

 

The entrance is in the left part of the plate armour (plate zone) below a small overhang with threads.

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
2 h
Descent

On the marked trail to the west, short counter-ascent to the Kopfkraxen (approx. 15 min) and following the markings down the Wiesberg. At "Sonnenstein" follow the signs to the waterfall (approx. 1h 30 min). Further descent like ascent.

 

Refreshment stops nearby: Gasthof Jägerwirt Inn

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
2 h 45 min
Ratingi
Nicht bewertet
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Sonnenpfeiler  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
35m
5c+
2
30m
3a
3
40m
4a
4
20m
5c+(A0)
5
40m
6a
6
25m
1
7
35m
5a
8
40m
5a
9
35m
5b
10
50m
5a
11
35m
4a
12
35m
4a
13
50m
5a
14
30m
5c+
🄴
Basic information

The „Sonnenpfeiler“ sun pillar is secured throughout with bolts. The distances between the bolts are sometimes considerable - mobile gear (cams and nuts) is therefore helpful. Apart from the exit area, slab and wall climbing in solid rock predominate. The crux is usually only technically possible (A0).

🅊
Grade
6a
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
5c
Number of pitches
14
🖜
Developer

H. Haselsberger, H. Praschberger; 1999/2000

🞱
Altitude
1800 m
Route length
700 m
🐲
required climbing time
7 h
🔋
Blockhöhe max
450 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
883 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
2100 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
2260 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
50 meters double rope, 10 quickdraws, ev. cams and nuts
Approach

Starting point: Car park below the Gasthof Jägerwirt Inn, Scheffau.

Take trail 826 past the Wegscheid-Hochalm and the junction with the Wilder-Kaiser-Steig (823), always heading north to the waterfall (rucksack depot). From here continue on trail 826 towards Treffauer until it branches off. Now over the gravel cirque to the base of the Sonneck wall.

The entrance is directly on the right of the "Kraxengrat" (chimney system) with a painted yellow sun.

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
2 h
Descent

On the marked trail to the west, short counter-ascent to the Kopfkraxen (approx. 15 min) and following the markings down the Wiesberg. At "Sonnenstein" follow the signs to the waterfall (approx. 1h 30 min). Further descent like ascent.

 

Refreshment stops nearby: Gasthof Jägerwirt Inn

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
2 h 45 min
Ratingi
Nicht bewertet
User Ratingi

Meine Bewertung:

Bewerte die Attraktivität dieser Kletterroute:
Infos zum Bewertungssystem
Vielen Dank für deine Bewertung!
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