Wilder Kaiser
Sonneck
The Sonneck, with a height of 2,260m and its south face, is one of the most recently discovered climbing destinations on the Wilder Kaiser. Numerous routes secured with bolts lead through perfect rock to below the summit. But they are nevertheless alpine routes. The wall height is up to 450m.
In case of emergency a 50m double rope is necessary for abseiling.
Here are three example tours - further tours in the climbing guide "Alpin Wilder Kaiser" by Markus Stadler (2nd edition Panico-Verlag 2017).
Heading from Wörgl, Kufstein or St. Johann on the B178 road, take the exit to Scheffau. When you reach the Gasthof Maikircher inn located in the village of Scheffau, turn right in the direction of the Gasthof Jägerwirt inn. Follow the road until you reach the car park Wegscheid below the Gasthof Jägerwirt.
Car park Wegscheid below the Gasthof Jägerwirt inn, Scheffau (883 m) – pay & display
Sonneck (Südwand)
The Sonneck, with a height of 2,260m and its south face, is one of the most recently discovered climbing destinations on the Wilder Kaiser. Numerous routes secured with bolts lead through perfect rock to below the summit. But they are nevertheless alpine routes. The wall height is up to 450m.
In case of emergency a 50m double rope is necessary for abseiling.
Wonderful wall climbing in best rock. The tour is continuously secured with bolts - but not "plaisier“. Mobile gear is advisable. The tour ends on the grass terrace in the HaZo Fantastica entrance area.
T. Niedermühlbichler, A. Angerer; 2008
Starting point: Car park below the Gasthof Jägerwirt Inn, Scheffau.
Take trail 826 past the Wegscheid-Hochalm and the junction with the Wilder-Kaiser-Steig (823), always heading north to the waterfall (rucksack depot). From here continue on trail 826 towards Treffauer until it branches off. Now over the gravel cirque to the base of the Sonneck wall.
The entrance is a few metres to the left of the entrance "Kraxengrat" - chimney system, starting at the lowest point of the gravel cirque.
Abseil via the route. Descent as ascent.
Refreshment stops nearby: Gasthof Jägerwirt Inn
The start of the tour is on the large grass terrace at about 1950m. For the access to the HaZo Fantastica we recommend the route Delicatesse. The HaZo Fantastica in combination with the Route Delicatesse is one of the best „Kaiserroutes“ in this degree of difficulty - slab and wall climbing with homogeneous difficulties.
H. Haselsberger, H. Zott; 2002
Starting point: Car park below the Gasthof Jägerwirt Inn, Scheffau.
Take trail 826 past the Wegscheid-Hochalm and the junction with the Wilder-Kaiser-Steig (823), always heading north to the waterfall (rucksack depot). From here continue on trail 826 towards Treffauer until it branches off. Now over the gravel cirque to the base of the Sonneck wall.
The further access leads either over the Kraxengrat, the Route Delicatesse or the Sonnenpfeiler to the grass terrace.
The entrance is in the left part of the plate armour (plate zone) below a small overhang with threads.
On the marked trail to the west, short counter-ascent to the Kopfkraxen (approx. 15 min) and following the markings down the Wiesberg. At "Sonnenstein" follow the signs to the waterfall (approx. 1h 30 min). Further descent like ascent.
Refreshment stops nearby: Gasthof Jägerwirt Inn
The „Sonnenpfeiler“ sun pillar is secured throughout with bolts. The distances between the bolts are sometimes considerable - mobile gear (cams and nuts) is therefore helpful. Apart from the exit area, slab and wall climbing in solid rock predominate. The crux is usually only technically possible (A0).
H. Haselsberger, H. Praschberger; 1999/2000
Starting point: Car park below the Gasthof Jägerwirt Inn, Scheffau.
Take trail 826 past the Wegscheid-Hochalm and the junction with the Wilder-Kaiser-Steig (823), always heading north to the waterfall (rucksack depot). From here continue on trail 826 towards Treffauer until it branches off. Now over the gravel cirque to the base of the Sonneck wall.
The entrance is directly on the right of the "Kraxengrat" (chimney system) with a painted yellow sun.
On the marked trail to the west, short counter-ascent to the Kopfkraxen (approx. 15 min) and following the markings down the Wiesberg. At "Sonnenstein" follow the signs to the waterfall (approx. 1h 30 min). Further descent like ascent.
Refreshment stops nearby: Gasthof Jägerwirt Inn
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