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Wilder Kaiser
Maukspitze

🄴
Basic information

The impressive Maukspitze mountain is the easternmost massif on the south side of the Wilder Kaiser range. The Niedersessel cirque as well as the Upper and Lower South Faces are ideal for diverse tours with the widest range of difficulty levels. The most famous of these is the “Westwand (West Wall)" from Hermann Buhl, which features the famous "Woll-Woll" chimney. The Maukspitze mountain also boasts modern sports climbing routes as well.


The following are three example tours. For more tours, see the "Alpin Wilder Kaiser” climbing guide by Markus Stadler (3rd edition Panico-Verlag 2021).

 

Number of routes
24
Grade
5b - 8a+
🞱
Altidude
1.660 m - 2.231 m
🚗
Wall height
120 m - 320 m
🕞
Anreise

Heading from St. Johann on the B178 road, take the Going Prama exit immediately after passing the Stanglwirt hotel. When you reach the first junction, turn right in the direction of the bathing lake. Keep following the road towards the Kaisergebirge mountain range until you reach the next junction, which is located between two farmhouses. Turn left here and follow the road until you reach the hiking starting point and the car park.

 

Heading from Wörgl or Kufstein on the B178 road, take the Going Prama exit before you reach the Stanglwirt hotel. When you reach the first junction, turn right in the direction of the bathing lake. Keep following the road towards the Kaisergebirge mountain range until you reach the next junction, which is located between two farmhouses. Turn left here and follow the road until you reach the hiking starting point and the car park.

🕞
Öffentlicher Verkehr

KaiserJet stop “Going Badesee” or "Going Dorf" or Postbus stop "Going Stanglwirt" or "Going Dorf" and further on by the "Ruftaxi Ellmau-Going" to the hiking starting point.

More information at: www.wilderkaiser.info

🐈
Parking

Hüttling car park, Going (820 m) - pay & display

 

It is a day car park, which means that no ticket can be purchased for several days. The parking ticket is therefore only valid on the day of issue! It is a public car park from May to October. During the winter months from November to April the car park is not attended. During this time the use is at your own risk! Camping and permanent parking is prohibited on this car park. (Vehicles that are parked illegally will be reported to the police and towed.)

Gallery
🄴
Basic information

On the Untere Südwand (lower south wall), two time-tested, classic routes stand out in particular: the Westwand (West Wall) and the Spenglerkamin chimney. In addition, there are also many newer routes starting at difficulty rating 6 and up with varying levels of safety equipment.

Number of routes
1
Grade
7b - 7b
🐲
Approach time
1 h 30 min - 2 h
🞂
Exposure
S, SW, SO
👙
Best season
JAN
FEB
MÄR
APR
MAI
JUN
JUL
AUG
SEP
OKT
NOV
DEZ
Show routes
Südpfeiler route
Seillänge
Length
Grad
1
20m
2
2
35m
7+
3
30m
8+/9-
4
20m
7
5
30m
7+
6
20m
7
7
38m
8
8
20m
5+
9
40m
5
10
40m
3-
11
45m
1
12
40m
3
13
50m
3
🄴
Basic information

This route was first technically climbed by Seppi Spöck and Jürgen Vogt in 1963 and rated 5b/A1. After being restored by Reini Percht, HP Widmann, Christian Hechenberger and Simon Berger, Simon and Christian were able to free climb the route in 2019. The two lower pitches are challenging. The steep, overhanging dihedral is well secured with bolts and normal hooks. By and large, the rock surface is good except for a few brittle passages. Some friends are recommended as additional safety equipment. The route first extends through the yellow dihedral to the right of the prominent pillar edge, then traverses to the left before running slightly to the left, i.e. directly along the edge. In the upper section (from the 8th pitch), you will arrive at the west rock face (Buhl). Ascend this section to arrive up to the exit.

 

🅊
Grade
7b
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
5b
Number of pitches
13
🖜
Developer

S. Spöck, J. Vogt; 1963 - Freie Begehung: C. Hechenberger, S. Berger, 2019

🞱
Altitude
1.850 m
Route length
350 m
🐲
required climbing time
7 h
🔋
Blockhöhe max
320 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
820 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
2.231 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
2.231 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
60m twinrope, 12 quickdraws, 1 set friends
Approach

Starting point: Hiking starting point Hüttling, Going (820 m)

 

Approach via trail 817 to the Ackerlhütte mountain hut and then head towards the Ackerlspitze and Maukspitze peaks. At the Hochgrubachkar cirque, proceed past the remains of the "Alte Ackerlhütte mountain hut." First head slightly downhill then cross through the steep gravel field of the Eastern Hochgrubachkar up to the entry point.

 

Entry point: Located at the end of the yellow rock face above a large patch of grass where a crack has begun to form

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
2 h
Descent

From the west face exit (Buhl), head into and through the couloir and up to the marked normal route, which leads via the south ramp to the right and to the summit in just a few minutes. Proceed via the marked trail down to the Niedersessel cirque and continue onward via the Hochgrubachkar cirque back to the Ackerlhütte mountain hut. Reverse the route to return.

 

Refreshment stops nearby:

Ackerlhütte mountain hut (self-catering mountain hut - drinks available on nice-weather weekends in summer)

Obere Regalm mountain hut (Wed, Sat, Sun & holidays when the weather is dry)

Graspoint-Niederalm mountain hut (Fri, Sat, Sun)

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
2 h
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🄴
Basic information

The Niedersessel cirque is the small cirque between the Ackerlspitze and Maukspitze peaks. With its 100-m high rock face, it offers excellent and well-secured sport climbing routes, which are ideal for sunny autumn days.

 

Number of routes
2
Grade
6+ - 7-
🐲
Approach time
1 h 30 min - 2 h
🞂
Exposure
S
👙
Best season
JAN
FEB
MÄR
APR
MAI
JUN
JUL
AUG
SEP
OKT
NOV
DEZ
Show routes
1 Eisenbahnerplatte route
Seillänge
Length
Grad
1
50m
7-
2
45m
7-
3
25m
5+
🄴
Basic information

This tour is an interesting climbing route through holes and water grooves.

🅊
Grade
7-
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6
Number of pitches
3
🖜
Developer

T. Unterwurzacher; 1991

🞱
Altitude
1.660 m
Route length
110 m
🐲
required climbing time
1 h
🔋
Blockhöhe max
100 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
820 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
1.760 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
1.760 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
60m twinrope, 12 quickdraws
Approach

Starting point: Hiking starting point Hüttling, Going (820 m)

 

Approach via trail 817 to the Ackerlhütte mountain hut and then head towards the Ackerlspitze and Maukspitze peaks. Located in the Hochgrubach cirque at the foot of the rock face of the Ackerlspitze peak. To arrive at the entry point, head slightly downhill and to the right.

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
2 h
Descent

Rappel back down the route; then return is the same as the approach.

 

Refreshment stops nearby:

Ackerlhütte mountain hut (self-catering mountain hut - drinks available on nice-weather weekends in summer)

Obere Regalm mountain hut (Wed, Sat, Sun & holidays when the weather is dry)

Graspoint-Niederalm mountain hut (Fri, Sat, Sun)

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
1 h 30 min
Ratingi
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2 Pfiffkas route
Seillänge
Length
Grad
1
40m
6
2
30m
6+
3
30m
6
🄴
Basic information

Enjoy a variety of climbing experiences on rock face slabs, holes and water grooves.

🅊
Grade
6+
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6
Number of pitches
3
🖜
Developer

T. Unterwurzacher; 1999

🞱
Altitude
1.660 m
Route length
100 m
🐲
required climbing time
1 h
🔋
Blockhöhe max
100 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
820 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
1.760 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
1.760 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
60m twinrope, 12 quickdraws
Approach

Starting point: Hiking starting point Hüttling, Going (820 m)

 

Approach via trail 817 to the Ackerlhütte mountain hut and then head towards the Ackerlspitze and Maukspitze peaks. Located in the Hochgrubach cirque at the foot of the rock face of the Ackerlspitze peak. To arrive at the entry point, head slightly downhill and to the right.

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
2 h
Descent

Rappel back down the route; then return is the same as the approach.

 

Refreshment stops nearby:

Ackerlhütte mountain hut (self-catering mountain hut - drinks available on nice-weather weekends in summer)

Obere Regalm mountain hut (Wed, Sat, Sun & holidays when the weather is dry)

Graspoint-Niederalm mountain hut (Fri, Sat, Sun)

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
1 h 30 min
Ratingi
User Ratingi

Meine Bewertung:

Bewerte die Attraktivität dieser Kletterroute:
Infos zum Bewertungssystem
Vielen Dank für deine Bewertung!