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Wilder Kaiser
Kopftörlgrat

🄴
Basic information

The Kopftörlgrat ridge extends from the Kopftörl mountain pass in the east to the highest peak of the Wilder Kaiser, the Ellmauer Halt summit, in the west. This impressive mountain ridge is composed of six towers. In addition to the Kopftörlgrat ridge itself, which is one of the most rewarding ridge climbs in the Eastern Alps, there are some additional routes on the Ellmauer Halt summit. The Leuchsturm in particular is the most important climbing destination in this area. The Gruttenhütte mountain hut is the ideal basecamp.


The following are three example tours. For more tours, see the "Alpin Wilder Kaiser” climbing guide by Markus Stadler (3rd edition Panico-Verlag 2021).

Grade
3+ - 8+
🞱
Altidude
2.000 m - 2.275 m
🚗
Wall height
160 m - 250 m
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Anreise

Heading from Wörgl or Kufstein on the B178 road, take the first exit to Ellmau and then take the first exit at the roundabout. Drive straight on until you reach the junction (green signs - leading towards KaiserBad/Kaisergebirge/Wochenbrunn). Turn left here, then turn right immediately after passing the bus stop. Follow the (toll) road until you reach the Wochenbrunner Alm car park.

 

Heading from St. Johann on the B178 road, take the first exit to Ellmau and then drive straight on until you reach the junction (green signs – leading towards KaiserBad/Kaisergebirge/Wochenbrunn). Turn right here, then turn right again immediately after passing the bus stop. Follow the (toll) road until you reach the Wochenbrunner Alm car park.

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Öffentlicher Verkehr

In summer, you can catch the “Hiking bus Wochenbrunner Alm” service from “Ellmau Dorf/Bauhof” bus stop. Alternatively, you can take a taxi.

More information at: www.wilderkaiser.info

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Parking

Wochenbrunner Alm mountain hut, Ellmau (1,085 m) – free car park (toll road)

Gallery
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Basic information

The south rock face of the Leuchsturm tower is the No. 1 climbing destination above the Gruttenhütte mountain hut. It is visible from afar as part of the well-known "Kopftörlgrat” ridge. 

Number of routes
2
Grade
8+ - 8+
🐲
Approach time
1 h 30 min - 2 h
🞂
Exposure
S
👙
Best season
JAN
FEB
MÄR
APR
MAI
JUN
JUL
AUG
SEP
OKT
NOV
DEZ
Show routes
Whisky & Cigarettes route
Seillänge
Length
Grad
1
20m
6+
2
30m
7-
3
25m
7-
4
40m
8+ (7/A0)
5
20m
7
6
30m
7+
7
10m
5
8
30m
8-
9
30m
7
10
40m
6+
🄴
Basic information

Those who neither drink nor smoke need not avoid this tour, which extends through excellent Wilder Kaiser rock. Throughout this fantastic sport climb, the sunny south rock face unfolds its exhilarating effects. Beware, however, that the 8+ slab section is very demanding. Are you really up to the challenge? If not, you can take a detour via an A0 route to continue. The protection along the way is not optimally placed throughout the entire route (e.g. at pitches 2 and 9, you can use friends and rocks to make the runouts somewhat easier). But over longer stretches this is an excellent sport climbing route.

 

🅊
Grade
8+
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
7+
Number of pitches
10
🖜
Developer

A. Dick, L. Brandner; 1996

🞱
Altitude
1.985 m
Route length
250 m
🐲
required climbing time
3 h 30 min
🔋
Blockhöhe max
200 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
1.085 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
2.185 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
2.185 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
60m twinrope, 12 quickdraws
Approach

Starting point: Wochenbrunner Alm, Ellmau (1.085 m)

 

On trail 825, ascend to the Gruttenhütte mountain hut. From here, follow trail 813 up into the large gravel "Hochgrubach” cirque and arrive at the entry points via the steep grassy crags and the Gamsängersteig trail, which runs directly under the foot of the rock face.

 

Entry point: The Whisky & Cigarettes route begins directly at the two plaques.

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
2 h
Descent

Abseil along the tour; descent same as approach.

Alternatively, continue via the Kopftörlgrat ridge and descend via the Gamsängersteig trail (Note: this takes significantly longer!)

 

Refreshment stops nearby: Gruttenhütte, Wochenbrunner Alm

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
2 h
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Sex`n Bolts & Rock`n Roll route
Seillänge
Length
Grad
1
25m
7
2
25m
8
3
20m
7-
4
10m
1
5
40m
7-
6
25m
5
7
25m
8-
8
20m
8+
9
55m
7-
🄴
Basic information

Three years after the "Whisky & Cigarettes” route opened, first climbers Andi Dick and Ludwig Brandner decided it was time for "Sex'n Bolts & Rock'n Roll.” This very well secured sport climbing route feels a tick more difficult than its neighbour, which also extends through rough but mostly very good Wilder Kaiser rock. Good luck mastering the key passage in the penultimate rope length. Dick and Brandner rated the ascent 8+. Note: The tour ends very abruptly, which is a bit of a downer. Just as you ascend to the end of the rock face, you have to rappel back down to the foot of the rock face.

🅊
Grade
8+
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
7
Number of pitches
9
🖜
Developer

A. Dick, L. Brandner; 1996

🞱
Altitude
1.985 m
Route length
250 m
🐲
required climbing time
3 h
🔋
Blockhöhe max
200 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
1.085 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
2.185 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
2.185 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
60m twinrope, 16 quickdraws
Approach

Starting point: Wochenbrunner Alm, Ellmau (1.085 m)

 

On trail 825, ascend to the Gruttenhütte mountain hut. From here, follow trail 813 up into the large gravel "Hochgrubach” cirque and arrive at the entry points via the steep grassy crags and the Gamsängersteig trail, which runs directly under the foot of the rock face.

 

Entry point: The Sex'n Bolts & Rock'n Roll route starts about 25 m to the right of the two memorial plaques.

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
2 h
Descent

Abseil along the tour; descent same as approach.

Alternatively, continue via the Kopftörlgrat ridge and descend via the Gamsängersteig trail (Note: this takes significantly longer!)

 

Refreshment stops nearby: Gruttenhütte, Wochenbrunner Alm

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
2 h
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🄴
Basic information

With over 1000 metres of climbing, the Kopftörlgrat ridge climbing area boasts many interesting and varied routes.

 

Number of routes
1
Grade
3+ - 3+
🐲
Approach time
1 h 30 min - 2 h
🞂
Exposure
N, S, O
👙
Best season
JAN
FEB
MÄR
APR
MAI
JUN
JUL
AUG
SEP
OKT
NOV
DEZ
Show routes
Kopftörlgrat route
Seillänge
Length
Grad
1
m
Gehgelände
🄴
Basic information

The Kopftörlgrat ridge is a magnificent, panoramic ridge climb with a difficulty rating of 3. It extends via the east ridge with its six towers to the Ellmauer Halt summit. At 2,344 m, it is the highest peak in the Kaisergebirge mountain range. Along this 1-km route, there is a variety of different passages to master.

Georg Leuchs, a medical student from Munich solo climbed from the “Kopftörl mountain pass" via the rugged, six-tower east ridge to the Ellmauer Halt on 25 June 1900. The route opened by Leuchs is considered one of the most beautiful and enjoyable climbs around. It is also one of the most popular and well-known ridge climbs in the Northern Limestone Alps.

This climb, however, should not be underestimated due to its length and difficult route. There is an emergency descent route available at the Leuchsturm tower (rappel route).

 

🅊
Grade
3+
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
3+
Number of pitches
12
🖜
Developer

G. Leuchs, 1900

🞱
Altitude
2.046 m
Route length
1000 m
🐲
required climbing time
4 h
🔋
Blockhöhe max
400 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
1.085 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
2.344 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
2.344 m
🞂
Exposure
N, S, O
Equipment
50m rope, 5 quickdraws, slings, friends and rocks
Approach

Starting point: Wochenbrunner Alm, Ellmau (1.085 m)

 

On trail 825, ascend to the Gruttenhütte mountain hut. From here, continue to follow trail 825 to the Kopftörl mountain pass.

 

Entry point: Directly at the Kopftörl ridge

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
2 h
Descent

Head south from the summit on the marked Gamsängersteig trail (813) to the Gruttenhütte mountain hut and continue via trail 825 to the Wochenbrunner Alm mountain hut.

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
2 h
Ratingi
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Meine Bewertung:

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