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Wilder Kaiser
Kopfkraxen

🄴
Basic information

The Kopfkraxen mountain was developed at the same time as the Sonneck mountain and features well-secured Alpine climbing.

Due to the somewhat long run outs and their total overall lengths, these tours are not to be underestimated.


The following are two example tours. For more tours, see the "Alpin Wilder Kaiser” climbing guide by Markus Stadler (3rd edition Panico-Verlag 2021).

Number of routes
3
Grade
4- - 6c
🞱
Altidude
1.800 m - 2.180 m
🚗
Wall height
300 m - 400 m
🕞
Anreise

Heading from Wörgl, Kufstein or St. Johann on the B178 road, take the exit to Scheffau. When you reach the Gasthof Maikircher inn located in the village of Scheffau, turn right in the direction of the Gasthof Jägerwirt inn. Follow the road until you reach the car park below the Gasthof Jägerwirt.

🕞
Öffentlicher Verkehr

KaiserJet/Postbus stop “Scheffau Dorf” – followed by approx. 30-minute hike to Gasthof Jägerwirt inn.

More information at: www.wilderkaiser.info

🐈
Parking

Car park below the Gasthof Jägerwirt inn, Scheffau (883 m) – free

Gallery
🄴
Basic information

The Kopfkraxen mountain with its south wall was developed at the same time as the Sonneck mountain and features well-secured Alpine climbing.

Due to the somewhat long run outs and their total overall lengths, these tours are not to be underestimated.

 

Number of routes
2
Grade
6+ - 6+ (6-/A0)
🐲
Approach time
1 h 30 min - 2 h
🞂
Exposure
S
👙
Best season
JAN
FEB
MÄR
APR
MAI
JUN
JUL
AUG
SEP
OKT
NOV
DEZ
Show routes
Blue Moon route
Seillänge
Length
Grad
1
50m
3+
2
40m
4-
3
45m
6+
4
35m
1
5
50m
5-
6
45m
6
7
40m
5
8
30m
5
9
45m
6
10
45m
2
11
35m
6
12
40m
6-
13
40m
2
14
35m
4+
🄴
Basic information

Admittedly, everything on the Blue Moon climbing tour revolves around the 5th pitch. It’s readily visible on the approach even without a telescope, though it’s as if this dihedral is from another galaxy! At the very least, its like something out of a picture book, stretching more than one and a quarter pitch lengths. While climbing, you might find yourself thinking: It's working! The plan! And the moon! But soon you’ll be doing your best Piaz impression, taking your shoulders to the limit while using the layback climbing technique! All the while you’ll be in awe of the climbing lines Mother Earth can create. Small wonder that this Blue Moon tour is so popular! In case the lead climber falls, the safety equipment is good, but not excellent.

But what about the Blue Moon’s other eleven and three-quarter pitches? At the beginning, there is some searching for the right line. But towards the top, things really take off quickly. Between tufts of grass, there is some really fine and versatile limestone rock. It’s just how you’d imagine the perfect moon landing!

🅊
Grade
6+
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6
Number of pitches
14
🖜
Developer

H. Haselsberger, H. Goebel; 2005

🞱
Altitude
1.700 m
Route length
560 m
🐲
required climbing time
5 h
🔋
Blockhöhe max
450 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
883 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
2.140 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
2.180 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
50m rope, 12 quickdraws, slings, friends, rocks
Approach

Starting point: car par Wegscheid below Gasthof Jägerwirt, Scheffau (883 m)

 

Follow trail no. 826 past the Wegscheid-Niederalm and Wegscheid-Hochalm to the intersection with the Wilder-Kaiser-Steig trail. Continue north past the waterfall (store your backpack here) and further on into the Schneekar cirque.

At the end of a section of mountain pine, continue straight through the cirque to the already clearly visible dihedral pitches.

 

The entry point is located directly in the fall line.

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
2 h
Descent

From the Kopfkraxen on the marked trail down the Wiesberg mountain. At Sonnenstein follow the signs to the waterfall (approx. 1h 30 min). Further descent like approach.

 

Refreshment stop nearby: Gasthof Jägerwirt Inn

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
2 h 30 min
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Opa Highway route
Seillänge
Length
Grad
1
25m
3
2
35m
4
3
25m
5-
4
23m
5
5
25m
5+
6
44m
5
7
30m
5
8
17m
5+
9
35m
6+ (6-/A0)
10
35m
5+
11
40m
4
12
40m
5
🄴
Basic information

Worthwhile, well secured tour featuring slab climbing. The key pitch is a crack dihedral in prime Wilder Kaiser rock.

🅊
Grade
6+ (6-/A0)
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
5
Number of pitches
12
🖜
Developer

H. Haselsberger, H. Zott; 2014

🞱
Altitude
1.700 m
Route length
400 m
🐲
required climbing time
4 h
🔋
Blockhöhe max
300 m
🞱
Altitude starting point
1.650 m
🞱
Altitude en of climb
2.000 m
🞍
Altitude highest point
2.180 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
50m rope, 12 quickdraws, friends and rocks
Approach

Starting point: car par Wegscheid below Gasthof Jägerwirt, Scheffau (883 m)

 

Follow trail no. 826 past the Wegscheid-Niederalm and Wegscheid-Hochalm to the intersection with the Wilder-Kaiser-Steig trail. Continue north past the waterfall (store your backpack here) and then towards the Schneekar cirque.

Shortly before the Schneekar cirque at the Stoamandl cairn, keep left as you head through an area of mountain pine.

 

The entrance is located in the left section of the Schneekar in the fall line of the most prominent pillar.

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
2 h
Descent

From the Kopfkraxen on the marked trail down the Wiesberg mountain. At Sonnenstein follow the signs to the waterfall (approx. 1h 30 min). Further descent like approach.

 

Refreshment stop nearby: Gasthof Jägerwirt Inn

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
2 h 30 min
Ratingi
User Ratingi

Meine Bewertung:

Bewerte die Attraktivität dieser Kletterroute:
Infos zum Bewertungssystem
Vielen Dank für deine Bewertung!