Multi-pitch climbing with high alpine character in the Tirolean Oberland
Nauders in Kaunertal is close to the Swiss and Italian border. There are many possibilities for climbing - also for beginners and families. There are several small climbing gardens with easy climbs and an alpine flair. The type of rock is granite. Oberland also offers a lot of potential for experienced climbers. You can go sport climbing and ice climbing, do multi pitches and via ferratas, visit a forest rope park and four family-friendly climbing gardens.
5 tips for diverse multi pitch climbing
The Tirolean Oberland provides 20 diverse multi pitch routes. The following routes are the most popular ones:
- Piz Lad Nordwand – Nauders:The route „Sonja Claudia“ in the Northern wall of the Piz Lad mountain consists of ten pitches, ranging between 3 and 5 on the grading scale. The crux move is graded 6-. The structured rock is limestone. The anchors have two bolts. The intermediate belaying points are poorly secured. You should bring a basic assortment of friends and nuts.
- Finstermünzwand – Nauders: The „Weg der Freunde” multi pitch on the Finstermünzwand wall in Nauders consists of seven pitches on slabby shale. The routes are graded between 5a and 6a. The access hike only takes 10 minutes.
- Madatschtürme – Kaunertal: The Madatschtürme area in Kaunertal offers three multi pitch routes in a similar difficulty range. The „Ein Sommertraum für Thomas“ route consists of seven pitches between 3a and 5c. “Die Tante an der Kante“ route has eleven pitches from 3a to 5c, and „Westsidestory“ has seven pitches between 3a and 5b.
- Schweikert – Kaunertal: The „Wiesa-Jaggl“ multi pitch on the Schweikert mountain in Kaunertal offers twelve pitches of airy climbing on primary rock, graded between 3a and 6a+. The access hike takes half an hour from the Verpeilalm. You should bring at least ten quick draws and a 50m long double rope.
- Schweikert via Gsallgratl (North ridge) – Kaunertal: There is a new refurbished route via the North side of the Schweikert mountain, the Gsallgratl. The climbing is not very challenging. The routes are graded between the 3 and 4 on the grading scale. Due to some partly exposed parts, the tour has a high alpine character.