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Zwerchwand

🄴
Basic information

Broad south wall, which adjoins the Gimpel southeast porch to the east, a prominent gorge divides the wall into a western and an eastern part. The grass strips embedded in the wall take the masonry seriously, even inexperienced climbers in alpine terrain do not feel uncomfortably exposed here. However, you have to climb very safely and carefully in the rugged areas, because the hiking trail to the Nesselwängler Scharte runs underneath the wall.

Number of routes
10
Grade
1 - 8-
🞱
Altidude
2100 m
🕞
Arrival and public transport

From the hut Gimpelhaus in direction "Gimpel-Normalweg". Where the path meets the Gimpel porch, turn right towards "Nesselwängler Scharte". The routes are then on the left above the path. (about 30 minutes from the hut)

🐈
Parking

Parking at the Gimpelhaus car park in Nesselwängle.

Zwerchwand

Number of routes
10
Grade
6+ - ?
🐲
Approach time
30 min - 1 h 30 min
🞂
Exposure
S
👙
Best season
APR MAI JUN JUL AUG SEP OKT
Show routes
Linie 2005  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
35m
4+
2
30m
6-
3
35m
6-
4
40m
5+
5
35m
5
🄴
Basic information

One of the easier routes on the Zwerchwand, which offers homogeneous, rewarding climbing after the somewhat rough first pitch. With beautiful wall and slab passages and some cracks also quite varied.

🅊
Grade
?
🖜
Developer

Toni Feudig, 2005

Route length
170 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
130 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Approach
Descent

The abseiling piste for the routes in the eastern part of the wall starts on the far left, at the exit of route line 2005. A fixed rope leads from the ridge to the first abseiling point.

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Diebische Rentner  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
30m
4+
2
25m
6
3
25m
5
4
27m
2+
5
25m
6-
6
25m
6
7
15m
5+
🄴
Basic information

In spite of several rough stretches it was a worthwhile route, the first complete ascent of which was snatched away by two thieving pensioners from the Allgäu.

🅊
Grade
?
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann, Jörg Kühn 2004

Route length
180 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
130 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
50m double rope, 10 express slings are sufficient. Stoppers and camalots not necessary.
Approach
Descent

The abseiling piste for the routes in the eastern part of the wall starts on the far left at the exit of route line 2005. A fixed rope leads from the ridge to the first abseiling point.

Caution: The trail to the Nesselwängler Scharte runs below the wall.

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Seidenschwarz  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
35m
4+
2
35m
5+
3
35m
6+
4
30m
3+
5
30m
4+
6
35m
4-
🄴
Basic information

Of the new routes, those with the most alpine touch, as they are partly rough and somewhat inhomogeneous. For safe 5-person climbers with alpine experience, who sometimes take a hook without getting red, an alternative to the classics.

🅊
Grade
6+
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
5
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann, Uwe Schneider 2004

Route length
190 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
130 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
50m double rope, 10 espresso loops, stoppers and camalots not necessary
Approach
Descent

The abseiling piste for the routes in the eastern part of the wall starts on the far left at the exit of route line 2005. A fixed rope leads from the ridge to the first abseiling point. Caution: The trail to the Nesselwängler Scharte runs below the wall.

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Memory  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
25m
7-
2
27m
6
3
30m
6
4
18m
6
🄴
Basic information

The route doesn't go all the way up, but offers interesting climbing sections throughout. Ideal after a longer tour or in uncertain weather conditions, as the climbing can be broken off at any time. The route is reminiscent of Richard Stängl from Immenstadt who crashed in the Bernese Oberland.

🅊
Grade
?
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
7-
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann, Andi Vogt 2004

Route length
100 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
130 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
50m double rope, 10 express slings are enough. Stoppers and camalots not necessary
Approach
Descent

The abseiling piste for the routes in the eastern part of the wall starts on the far left at the exit of route line 2005. A fixed rope leads from the ridge to the first abseiling point. Abseil piste for the route memory on the left of the route.

Caution: The trail to the Nesselwängler Scharte runs below the wall.

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Tannheimer Revival  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
30m
5+
2
40m
6+
3
25m
7-
4
40m
6
5
35m
6+
🄴
Basic information

Predominantly wall and slab climbing, plus intersections and a crack chimney. Some rough passages and grass strips should not be concealed. Nevertheless the most rewarding route on the eastern zwerchwand.

🅊
Grade
7-
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann und Jörg Kühn, 2003

Route length
170 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
130 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
50m Doppelseil für Abseilpiste
Approach
Descent

The abseiling piste for the routes in the eastern part of the wall starts on the far left, at the exit of route line 2005. A fixed rope leads from the ridge to the first abseiling point.

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Miss Nesselwängle  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
25m
7-
2
35m
6+
3
15m
2+
4
25m
5+
5
20m
6
6
20m
6+
7
30m
8
8
10m
6+
🄴
Basic information

After a strenuous entry overhang follows beautiful, homogeneous climbing over slabs with holes and ledges. Elegant route, frequently used.

🅊
Grade
?
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6+
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann, Andi Vogt, Albert Schuster, Matthias Huber 2004

Route length
180 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
130 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
50m double rope, 10 express slings are sufficient, stoppers and camalots not necessary
Approach
Descent

Abseiling via the central abseiling piste to the left of the routes. When abseiling, do not cause a rock fall, as the hiking trail to the Nesselwängler Scharte runs below the wall.

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Akrophobie  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
20m
7-
2
35m
6+
3
15m
2+
4
25m
5+
5
20m
7-
6
20m
7-
7
15m
3
🄴
Basic information

The route leads from Miss Nesselwängle's third stand directly through the compact wall. The key stele requires small wall climbing, the penultimate rope length is one of the most beautiful in the Tannheim area. 

🅊
Grade
?
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
7-
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann, Uwe Schneider 2004

Route length
170 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
130 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
50m double rope, 10 express slings, stoppers and calamots not necessary
Approach
Descent

Abseiling via the central abseiling piste to the left of the routes. When abseiling, do not cause a rock fall, as the hiking trail to the Nesselwängler Scharte runs below the wall.

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Siebenschläfer  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
40m
7
2
40m
6+
3
25m
7-
4
15m
7
5
20m
6
6
25m
6
7
5m
2
🄴
Basic information

Very nice homogeneous route with varied climbs over slabs, overhangs and intersections.

🅊
Grade
?
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6+
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann, Andi Vogt 2004

Route length
165 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
130 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
Completely aligned with borehooks. 50 meters of double rope and 10 express slings should be enough Stopper and Camalots are not necessary.
Approach
Descent

Abseiling via the central abseiling piste to the left of the routes. When abseiling, do not cause a rock fall, as the hiking trail to the Nesselwängler Scharte runs below the wall.

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Zwerchweg  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
30m
5
2
45m
4+
3
30m
6+
4
20m
6-
5
20m
5+
6
20m
5+
7
20m
5-
🄴
Basic information

The Zwerchenweg also offers beautiful climbing in mainly good rock. However, the route is steeper and in the difficulties much more homogeneous and persistent.

🅊
Grade
?
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann, Jörg Kühn 2003

Route length
180 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
130 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
perfekt mit Borhaken gesichert. Kein zusätzliches Material notwendig. 10 Meter Doppelseil für die Abseilpiste
Approach
Descent

Three abseiling pistes are available.

 

From top to bottom.

Abseiling piste no. 1: Unsuitable for beginners as the first abseiling length is overhanging. From the highest ridge elevation to the south over a steel rope to the first, slightly overhanging abseiling point.

 

Abseiling piste no. 2: This is the most recommended abseiling piste. The easier abseil leads from the highest point of the ridge west along the ridge to the Zwerchscharte and then south.

From the highest elevation west along the ridge into the Zwerchscharte and then south.

 

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

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Till Ann  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
20m
6-
2
25m
4
3
45m
4
4
25m
4
5
20m
5-
6
20m
4+
7
20m
2+
8
20m
2+
🄴
Basic information

Meanwhile one of the most popular routes of this degree in the Tannheimers. Early risers have a clear advantage. Interesting climbing sections in largely solid rock.

🅊
Grade
?
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
4+
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann, Matthias Huber 2003

Route length
180 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
130 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
Perfekt mit BH gesichert, 10 Expressen und ein 50 Meter-Doppelseil genügen
Approach
Descent

Three abseiling pistes are available.

 

From top to bottom.

Abseiling piste no. 1: Unsuitable for beginners as the first abseiling length is overhanging. From the highest ridge elevation to the south over a steel rope to the first, slightly overhanging abseiling point.

 

Abseiling piste no. 2: This is the most recommended abseiling piste. The easier abseil leads from the highest point of the ridge west along the ridge to the Zwerchscharte and then south.

From the highest elevation west along the ridge into the Zwerchscharte and then south.

 

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

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