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Sebenkopf

🄴
Basic information

The Sebenkopf is a ridge extension of the 1937 m high Sebenspitze. In the 80s Klaus Tröber lifted the somewhat hidden wall out of oblivion with his routes. In the meantime, the wall has been diligently developed further and the classics have all been renovated.


Some of the routes are now very close together, which makes orientation quite difficult - in some cases orientation signs have even been put up at the sites!



A visit is especially worthwhile in spring, when you can ski from the Füssener Jöchle to the entrance. In case of strong warming and wet snow cover, please be aware of the possible danger of avalanches.

Number of routes
8
Grade
2 - 8+
🞱
Altidude
1850 m
🕞
Arrival and public transport

from Vils to the Vilser Alm. Continue in the direction of Obere Alpe/Schlagstein and finally over scree slopes up to the foot of the wall (2h in total). Also possible with MTB until about 800 behind the Vilser Alm, then in total about 1,5h.

 

From Grän take the cable car to Füssener Jöchle and from there descend to the foot of the wall (about 40 minutes from the top station).

🐈
Parking

from Vils at the parking lot Vilser Alm.

from Grän at the valley station Füssener Jöchle.

Sebenkopf

Number of routes
9
Grade
7+ - 9-
🐲
Approach time
40 min - 2 h
🞂
Exposure
SO
👙
Best season
MAI JUN JUL AUG SEP OKT
Show routes
Sikarus  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
25m
9+
2
20m
9
3
10m
8+
4
15m
11-
5
20m
10
🄴
Basic information

Bouldering point at the entrance, technical endurance on skirting boards, a 10-train passage in the roof and widely spaced skirting boards in the 5th SL.

In contrast to the Ikarus, all grips are natural. As an RP project, the route is open to all aspirants.

🅊
Grade
9+
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
9-
Number of pitches
5
🖜
Developer

Daniel Gebel, Martin Schindele, Reinhard Hones 2009

Route length
90 m
🞂
Exposure
SO
Approach
Descent

At the exit of the Route Ikarus, a rappelling slope begins. Seen from above, the abseiling is mainly on the right side.

You can abseil down over Fairy Tale King and Storm in a Tumbler.

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Sturm im Wasserglas  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
35m
6
2
20m
7+
3
50m
7+
🄴
Basic information

Rewarding short route with interesting key rope length on excellent limestone.

🅊
Grade
7+
🖜
Developer

Klaus Tröber, Mathias Roth 1988, saniert und Linie optimiert durch K. Tröber 2006

Route length
100 m
🞂
Exposure
SO
Equipment
Plaisir-like renovated, 12 expresses
Approach
Descent

At the exit of the Route Ikarus, a rappelling slope begins. Seen from above, the abseiling is mainly on the right side.

You can abseil down over Fairy Tale King and Storm in a Tumbler.

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Märchenkönig  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
35m
6
2
25m
8-
3
20m
7
4
25m
8-
🄴
Basic information

Beautiful, steep and towards the top increasingly difficult slab climbing in compact rock. Fingerqower is in demand.

🅊
Grade
8-
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
8
🖜
Developer

Walter Hölzer und Gef. 2001

Route length
100 m
🞂
Exposure
SO
Equipment
Completely drilled in with stainless bra, no other material is necessary
Approach
Descent

At the exit of the Route Ikarus, a rappelling slope begins. Seen from above, the abseiling is mainly on the right side.

You can abseil down over Fairy Tale King and Storm in a Tumbler.

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Ikarus  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
45m
8+
2
30m
8
3
20m
8-
4
20m
9-
5
30m
10
6
35m
7+
🄴
Basic information

Very athletic, spectacular line through the large overhangs. Good, often strongly overhanging rock. Retreat by rappelling from the roofs not always possible!

🅊
Grade
9-
🖜
Developer

Walter Hölzer und Gef. 2001

Route length
180 m
🞂
Exposure
SO
Equipment
Completely equipped with Inox borehooks. No further material necessary.
Approach
Descent

At the exit of the Route Ikarus, a rappelling slope begins. Seen from above, the abseiling is mainly on the right side.

You can abseil down over Fairy Tale King and Storm in a Tumbler.

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Via Andrea  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
20m
6
2
30m
7
3
40m
6
4
25m
6
5
45m
7+
🄴
Basic information

The first real sport climbing route on the mountain was extended from a first ascent to a completely independent route. Mostly wall climbing on almost consistently the best rock.

🅊
Grade
7+
🖜
Developer

Klaus Tröber, A. Haslach 1986

Route length
160 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
140 m
🞂
Exposure
SO
Equipment
Continuously equipped plaisirmäßig, 10 expresses necessary
Approach

from Vils to the Vilser Alm. Continue in the direction of Obere Alpe/Schlagstein and finally over scree slopes up to the foot of the wall (2h in total). Also possible with MTB until about 800 behind the Vilser Alm, then in total about 1,5h.

 

from Grän with the cable car to the Füssener Jöchle and from there descend to the foot of the wall (about 40 minutes from the top station).

Descent

Follow the ridge towards Sebenspitze until you reach a vertical rise. About 20 metres to the south you will find the first of two abseiling points leading into the lower part of the southern gully. Abseil down and over crag back to the entrance. In the left half of the wall do not abseil over the routes - danger of falling rocks!

1x50m or 2x25m!

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Schinder Hannes  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
50m
7+
2
30m
7-
3
40m
6+
4
30m
6+
🄴
Basic information

Wonderful homogeneous wall and intersection climbing with ideal lines.

Bold in the past, now quite enjoyable.

🅊
Grade
7+
🖜
Developer

Klaus Tröber, M.Roth 1987, saniert Sepp Besler, Klaus Tröber 2005

Route length
150 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
140 m
🞂
Exposure
SO
Equipment
Continuously equipped plaisirmäßig, 10 expresses necessary
Approach

from Vils to the Vilser Alm. Continue in the direction of Obere Alpe/Schlagstein and finally over scree slopes up to the foot of the wall (2h in total). Also possible with MTB until about 800 behind the Vilser Alm, then in total about 1,5h.

 

from Grän with the cable car to the Füssener Jöchle and from there descend to the foot of the wall (about 40 minutes from the top station).

Descent

Follow the ridge towards Sebenspitze until you reach a vertical rise. About 20 metres to the south you will find the first of two abseiling points leading into the lower part of the southern gully. Abseil down and over crag back to the entrance. In the left half of the wall do not abseil over the routes - danger of falling rocks!

1x50m or 2x25m!

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Direkte Südwand  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
40m
6
2
30m
6+
3
30m
7
4
30m
7-
5
20m
5
🄴
Basic information

The straight lines of the name do not make it unjustified. Very varied wall climbing in good rock. The route dries very quickly and is passable almost all year round.

🅊
Grade
7-
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6-
🖜
Developer

M. Bertle, G. Bram, R.Konrad 1963, saniert von der Bergrettung Vils 1999

Route length
150 m
🞂
Exposure
SO
Equipment
For 1st rope length 3 or 2.5 Camalot helpful
Approach
Descent

Follow the ridge towards Sebenspitze until you reach a vertical rise. About 20 metres to the south you will find the first of two abseiling points leading into the lower part of the southern gully. Abseil down and over crag back to the entrance. Or back via the normal route.

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Kundabuffer  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
40m
7
2
30m
6+
3
30m
8-
4
30m
7+
5
30m
20
6
5m
🄴
Basic information

Rewarding, difficult wall and slab climbing with some technically demanding passages. The key passage in the 2nd pitch is limited to a hard single spot, which can also be climbed A0. Predominantly solid rock, but interspersed with some brittle sections. Set up from above.

🅊
Grade
8
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
7-
🖜
Developer

Jürgen und Sabine Brandauer 1989

Route length
150 m
🞂
Exposure
SO
Equipment
Equipped with gold-coloured borehooks, a set of stoppers is advisable.
Approach
Descent

Follow the ridge towards Sebenspitze until you reach a vertical rise. About 20 metres to the south you will find the first of two abseiling points leading into the lower part of the southern gully. Abseil down and over crag back to the entrance. Or back via the normal route.

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Vilser Traum  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
30m
7-
2
45m
5
3
40m
7
4
30m
8
🄴
Basic information

Already in 1990, a sports climbing route set up from above, which offers almost entirely magnificent slab and wall climbing. Mostly solid, in places excellent rock.

🅊
Grade
8
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
7
Number of pitches
4
🖜
Developer

Klaus Tröber, Matthias Lob 1990, Saniert mit neuer Variante: Walter Hölzler 2005, Originallinie: Klaus Tröber 2005

Route length
140 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
140 m
🞂
Exposure
SO
Approach

from Vils to the Vilser Alm. Continue in the direction of Obere Alpe/Schlagstein and finally over scree slopes up to the foot of the wall (2h in total). Also possible with MTB until about 800 behind the Vilser Alm, then in total about 1,5h.

 

from Grän with the cable car to the Füssener Jöchle and from there descend to the foot of the wall (about 40 minutes from the top station).

Descent

Follow the ridge towards Sebenspitze until you reach a vertical rise. About 20 metres to the south you will find the first of two abseiling points leading into the lower part of the southern gully. Abseil down and over crag back to the entrance. In the left half of the wall do not abseil over the routes - danger of falling rocks!

1x50m or 2x25m!

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