Tannheimer Tal
Rote Flüh (2.108m)
These are elevations of the eastern ridge of the Rote Flüh, which are not so important from a mountaineering point of view but very popular with climbers, especially in winter. Due to the large number of routes and variants, which often cross each other and are partly identical, a somewhat confusing line pattern has unfortunately developed in the meantime.
There are three climbing guides for the region: one by Toni Freudig (see
www.freudig.de) "Climbing on the sunny side of Tannheim" resp. by the same author "Climbing in the heart of Tannheim" and also a climbing guide from the Panico publishing house!
In Nesselwängle parken und von dort (Parkplatz) ca. 1h 15min bis zum Gimpelhaus. Um den Aufstieg zur Hütte zu erleichtern ist ein Gepäcktransport mit der Materialseilbahn möglich. Man kann auch am Gimpelhaus (1659m) übernachten - siehe (www.tannheimertal.at/gimpelhaus).
Als zweite Möglichkeit steht auch die Tannheimer Hütte (1760m) zur Verfügung. Der Zustieg dauert ci. 15min länger - siehe tannheimer-huette@alpenverein-kempten.de
Von beiden Hütten geht man gemütlich in 20-25min zu den Einstiegen.
Es handelt sich um Erhebungen der Roten Flüh, bergsteigerisch wenig beteutend, bei Kletterern jedoch sehr beliebt, besonders auch im Winter.
Abseilen über Abseilspiste (siehe Topo)
Abseilen über Abseilpiste (siehe Topo)
The broad alignment of the south-west face and the south face of the Rote Flüh is one of the most interesting climbing destinations in the Tannheim mountains.
At the moment certainly the most demanding route of the south face. The difficulties are very homogeneous and persistent, and the rock is of the finest quality.
Walter Hölzler 2002
From Gimpelhaus keep left to the south wall
Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the hut.
Or on the Friedberger Klettersteig down to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully to the beginning of the abseil path.
Frequent climbing, which takes the logical and easiest way through the south face along ramps and chimneys. The key point, the chimney leading to the pillar, is wet for a long time after rain and in spring it may be icy. The danger of falling rocks from the upper easy part of the route should not be underestimated. A helmet is absolutely mandatory!
If you can gain a degree, you can avoid the ramp at the beginning and the very worn slippery chimney via the direct entry. This variant is shown in dotted lines on the topo.
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
Braß, Männer, v. Schwerin, 1919
From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.
Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the hut.
Or on the Friedberger Klettersteig down to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully to the beginning of the abseil path.
For all routes it is recommended to take an assortment of small and medium sized wedges and some narrow slings. Put your helmet on! The Route Moritz was left in its original state and is difficult to find. On the Bello e impossibile the spot before the second hook is difficult to secure. A fall ends on the ground!
Max (5+/30m) - Toni Freudig and Gef., 1987
Climbing circus (6/30m) - Toni Freudig and Gef., 1987
Moritz (5+735m) - Toni Freudig and Gef., 19987
Nose drops (8-/30m) - Toni Freudig, 1987
Bello e impossibile (8+/35m) - Toni Freudig, 1988
From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.
Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the hut.
Or on the Friedberger Klettersteig down to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully to the beginning of the abseil path.
Excellent wall and slab climbing in consistently best rock. To find this, the route crosses several classics. Be aware of the danger of falling rocks from the exit gorge of the Old Southwnad in the lower pitches!
Toni Schweißgut, 1. RP Markus Lutz
From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.
Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the hut.
Or on the Friedberger Klettersteig down to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully to the beginning of the abseil path.
Sport climbing in excellent rock, but with somewhat artificial lines. In the meantime also free climbing. Rating suggestion: 9-
R. Hillenbrand, A. Whrmann 1992
From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.
Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the hut.
Or on the Friedberger Klettersteig down to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully to the beginning of the abseil path.
As one of Walter Pause's 100 extreme routes, it was excessively climbed and accordingly badly climbed. Especially in the "Yellow Rift" away from the trees one may curse quietly. Nevertheless still a delicacy with many exquisite climbing spots. It is usually used in connection with the Direct Entry and is also shown in the topo.
A. Kleemeier, L. SChuster 1953
From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.
Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the hut.
Or on the Friedberger Klettersteig down to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully to the beginning of the abseil path.
Varied climbing with a strenuous fist break in the second pitch. The most direct line from the three trees to the summit. For a long time this route was considered the most difficult on the Rote Flüh. Since its restoration by the first climbers, the route has become one of the most popular free climbing classics in the area.
Shortly before going to press, we received the news that after a rock outburst in the 2nd pitch, a free ascent is pending.
H. Reisach, G. Geisenberger 1969
From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.
Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the hut.
Or on the Friedberger Klettersteig down to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully to the beginning of the abseil path.
Classic climbing along the striking crack and chimney system with a hefty double bulge as the key point. After rain unfortunately especially long wet and at the beginning of the chimney system also a bit brittle.
O. Leixl, v. Overkamp, v. Schwerin 1920
From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.
Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the hut.
Or on the Friedberger Klettersteig down to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully to the beginning of the abseil path.
Rewarding wall and chimney climbing, which can usually be approached directly via the lower part of the south-east crack or alternatively via an interesting slab cross-crossing from the south-wall firs. After longer rainfalls the big chimney can be quite unpleasant.
H. Schertel und Gef. 1929
From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.
Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the hut.
Or on the Friedberger Klettersteig down to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully to the beginning of the abseil path.
Continuously heavy wall and slab climbing, where sometimes places in the seventh degree over a wedge have to be climbed. The first 10 meters are the same as on the south-east wall, then not to the left, but following the hooks straight up.
J. Schmidt, Christoph Mieger 2000
From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.
Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the hut.
Or on the Friedberger Klettersteig down to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully to the beginning of the abseil path.
The wide wall line of the south-west face and the south face of the Rote Flüh is one of the most interesting and popular climbing destinations of the Tannheim mountains. In contrast to the Gimpel Südwand, almost all skill levels can be found here.
The palette ranges from practice routes suitable for beginners such as the "Westwandrampe" to the neighbouring modern sport climbing routes.
In the last ten years, Walter Hölzler from Oberstaufen on the Rote Flüh in particular has repeatedly sought out new territory. In doing so, he discovered new, partly contemporary steep athletic pitches and often linked them with the rewarding parts of forgotten old paths. With a great deal of time invested, he managed to achieve great routes such as the "Spiderman" and three new climbing routes on the long-forgotten west face of the Rote Flüh.
These new routes are all equipped for sport climbing. All of the worthwhile older climbs were triggered in 1997/98 and restored by a rope team crash on the "southwest wall". The classic routes in the Tannhemern therefore still have their character despite the boreholes.
Since the complete renovation by the "Arbeitsgemeinschaft sicheres Klettern in den Tannheimer Bergen" (Working Group for Safe Climbing in the Tannheim Mountains) in 1997, this route is now also suitable for beginners.
It is situated in a relatively wind-protected corner, but - as so often in easier tours - does not always offer solid rock. Watch out for falling rocks! Some markings for easier orientation have been installed.
Abseiling piste
Toni Freudig set up this abseiling piste in 1987. Two 45 meter ropes, as the first length ends exactly after 45 meters. A good abseiling technique is essential. Not stone chip safe!
From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.
Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the huts.
Or up to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully shortly down to the beginning of the abseil path.
For all routes it is recommended to take an assortment of small and medium sized wedges and some narrow slings. Be sure to put on your helmet!
Green wave 6-, 30m
Bay leaf 7+, 30m
Guardian, 6+, 20m
Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the huts.
Or up to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully shortly down to the beginning of the abseil path.
From the rarely climbed Baseclimb Laurel Leaf, two new pitches and two old techno pitches, a climbing route was created that has what it takes to become a Klssiker. The entrance is about 10m to the right of the red "WR" mark.
Walter Hölzler und Gef. 2009, Lorbeerblatt: Toni Freudig 1988
From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.
It is possible to abseil over all tours (storm in paradise with a double rope), but the abseiling piste on the west flank of the Rote Flüh is faster.
Short, but crisp. Technically demanding wall climbing in mostly good to very good rock, perfectly secured and homogeneous. From the afternoon on beautiful in the sun and in dry conditions an ideal second tour.
Walter Hölzler und Gef. 2010
From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.
It is possible to abseil over all tours (storm in paradise with a double rope), but the abseiling piste on the west flank of the Rote Flüh is faster.
One of the most varied routes in the Tannheimer Tal in mostly excellent rock. The consistently demanding climbing demands both technique and endurance. Red-point aspirants are almost continuously confronted with the 8th degree. However, the route should only be tackled in dry conditions.
WalterHölzler und GEf. 2007
From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.
It is possible to abseil over all tours (storm in paradise with a double rope), but the abseiling piste on the west flank of the Rote Flüh is faster.
Very popular and frequently used steep pleasure climbing. With one passage A0 homogeneous. The key passage is so greased anyway that free climbing there is not much fun.
H. Kadner, v. Schwerin, v. Overkamp 1919
From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.
Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the huts.
Or on the Friedberger Klettersteig down to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully to the beginning of the abseil path.
A route with light and shade: somewhat splintery passages alternating with great climbing sections on slabs and overhangs as well as one or the other rugged strip hold the complete Tannheim range of products ready. The route including the ascent to the summit is almost exemplary renovated. However, the 6th degree should be mastered.
H. Schertel und Gef. 1932, Gipfeldurchstieg: M. Schweiger, L. Huber 1938
From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.
Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the huts.
Or on the Friedberger Klettersteig down to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully to the beginning of the abseil path.
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