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Rote Flüh (2.108m)

🄴
Basic information

These are elevations of the eastern ridge of the Rote Flüh, which are not so important from a mountaineering point of view but very popular with climbers, especially in winter. Due to the large number of routes and variants, which often cross each other and are partly identical, a somewhat confusing line pattern has unfortunately developed in the meantime.


There are three climbing guides for the region: one by Toni Freudig (see


www.freudig.de) "Climbing on the sunny side of Tannheim" resp. by the same author "Climbing in the heart of Tannheim" and also a climbing guide from the Panico publishing house!


 

Number of routes
17
Grade
3 - 9
🞱
Altidude
180 m 2111 m
🕞
Arrival and public transport

In Nesselwängle parken und von dort (Parkplatz) ca. 1h 15min bis zum Gimpelhaus. Um den Aufstieg zur Hütte zu erleichtern ist ein Gepäcktransport mit der Materialseilbahn möglich. Man kann auch am Gimpelhaus (1659m) übernachten - siehe (www.tannheimertal.at/gimpelhaus).

Als zweite Möglichkeit steht auch die Tannheimer Hütte (1760m) zur Verfügung. Der Zustieg dauert ci.  15min länger - siehe tannheimer-huette@alpenverein-kempten.de

Von beiden Hütten geht man gemütlich in 20-25min zu den Einstiegen.

GPS position
Long: 10.61229, Lat: 47.49746

Rote Flüh Südwestwand

🄴
Basic information

The wide wall line of the south-west face and the south face of the Rote Flüh is one of the most interesting and popular climbing destinations of the Tannheim mountains. In contrast to the Gimpel Südwand, almost all skill levels can be found here. 


The palette ranges from practice routes suitable for beginners such as the "Westwandrampe" to the neighbouring modern sport climbing routes.


In the last ten years, Walter Hölzler from Oberstaufen on the Rote Flüh in particular has repeatedly sought out new territory. In doing so, he discovered new, partly contemporary steep athletic pitches and often linked them with the rewarding parts of forgotten old paths. With a great deal of time invested, he managed to achieve great routes such as the "Spiderman" and three new climbing routes on the long-forgotten west face of the Rote Flüh.


These new routes are all equipped for sport climbing. All of the worthwhile older climbs were triggered in 1997/98 and restored by a rope team crash on the "southwest wall". The classic routes in the Tannhemern therefore still have their character despite the boreholes. 


 

Number of routes
7
Grade
3 - 8+
🐲
Approach time
1 h - 1 h 30 min
🞂
Exposure
SW, S
Show routes
Südwestkante  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
35m
6+
2
30m
6+
3
35m
7-
4
30m
6-
5
30m
7-
6
45m
4
7
25m
3
8
25m
6-
9
45m
6-
🄴
Basic information

A route with light and shade: somewhat splintery passages alternating with great climbing sections on slabs and overhangs as well as one or the other rugged strip hold the complete Tannheim range of products ready. The route including the ascent to the summit is almost exemplary renovated. However, the 6th degree should be mastered.

🅊
Grade
7-
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6-
Number of pitches
10
🖜
Developer

H. Schertel und Gef. 1932, Gipfeldurchstieg: M. Schweiger, L. Huber 1938

🔋
Blockhöhe max
180 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Equipment
The route is fully equipped with sticky tape. 12 express slings and a few medium-sized wedges are sufficient for additional securing
Approach

From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.

Descent

Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the huts.

Or on the Friedberger Klettersteig down to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully to the beginning of the abseil path.

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Südwestwand  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
25m
2
2
45m
5-
3
35m
4
4
35m
4+
5
15m
2
6
20m
4+
7
30m
3
8
45m
3
9
25m
3
10
25m
6-
11
30m
4-
🄴
Basic information

Very popular and frequently used steep pleasure climbing. With one passage A0 homogeneous. The key passage is so greased anyway that free climbing there is not much fun.

🅊
Grade
7
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
4+
Number of pitches
11
🖜
Developer

H. Kadner, v. Schwerin, v. Overkamp 1919

Route length
260 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
180 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Approach

From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.

Descent

Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the huts.

Or on the Friedberger Klettersteig down to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully to the beginning of the abseil path.

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Sturm im Paradies  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
40m
8
2
25m
8-
3
15m
8-
4
20m
7+
5
20m
5+
6
20m
7+
7
25m
8+
8
25m
8
9
25m
10
18m
7-
🄴
Basic information

One of the most varied routes in the Tannheimer Tal in mostly excellent rock. The consistently demanding climbing demands both technique and endurance. Red-point aspirants are almost continuously confronted with the 8th degree. However, the route should only be tackled in dry conditions.

🅊
Grade
8+
Number of pitches
10
🖜
Developer

WalterHölzler und GEf. 2007

Route length
240 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
180 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Equipment
In the 4th pitch, a small Camalot can make it a little easier to attach the 2nd hook
Approach

From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.

Descent

It is possible to abseil over all tours (storm in paradise with a double rope), but the abseiling piste on the west flank of the Rote Flüh is faster.

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Niemandsland  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
20m
2
12m
3
35m
4
60m
5
25m
8+
6
25m
25
7
8m
265
8
18m
7-
🄴
Basic information

Short, but crisp. Technically demanding wall climbing in mostly good to very good rock, perfectly secured and homogeneous. From the afternoon on beautiful in the sun and in dry conditions an ideal second tour.

🅊
Grade
8+
Number of pitches
8
🖜
Developer

Walter Hölzler und Gef. 2010

Route length
90 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
80 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Approach

From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.

Descent

It is possible to abseil over all tours (storm in paradise with a double rope), but the abseiling piste on the west flank of the Rote Flüh is faster.

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Im Westen nichts Neues  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
1m
8-
2
35m
6+
3
25m
8
4
25m
8-
5
25m
6+
6
30m
3
7
25m
8+
8
25m
8
9
25m
18
10
m
7-
🄴
Basic information

From the rarely climbed Baseclimb Laurel Leaf, two new pitches and two old techno pitches, a climbing route was created that has what it takes to become a Klssiker. The entrance is about 10m to the right of the red "WR" mark.

🅊
Grade
8
Number of pitches
11
🖜
Developer

Walter Hölzler und Gef. 2009, Lorbeerblatt: Toni Freudig 1988

Route length
165 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
140 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Equipment
Double rope, thin sling for hourglass, medium Camalots
Approach

From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.

Descent

It is possible to abseil over all tours (storm in paradise with a double rope), but the abseiling piste on the west flank of the Rote Flüh is faster.

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Baseclimbs  
Nr.
Length
Grad
🄴
Basic information

For all routes it is recommended to take an assortment of small and medium sized wedges and some narrow slings. Be sure to put on your helmet!


Green wave 6-, 30m

Bay leaf 7+, 30m

Guardian, 6+, 20m

Approach
Descent

Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the huts.

Or up to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully shortly down to the beginning of the abseil path.

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Westwandrampe  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
45m
3-
2
30m
3
3
30m
3
4
30m
3
5
25m
3-
🄴
Basic information

Since the complete renovation by the "Arbeitsgemeinschaft sicheres Klettern in den Tannheimer Bergen" (Working Group for Safe Climbing in the Tannheim Mountains) in 1997, this route is now also suitable for beginners.

It is situated in a relatively wind-protected corner, but - as so often in easier tours - does not always offer solid rock. Watch out for falling rocks! Some markings for easier orientation have been installed.


Abseiling piste

Toni Freudig set up this abseiling piste in 1987. Two 45 meter ropes, as the first length ends exactly after 45 meters. A good abseiling technique is essential. Not stone chip safe!

🅊
Grade
3
Number of pitches
5
Route length
150 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
100 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Approach

From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.

Descent

Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the huts.

Or up to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully shortly down to the beginning of the abseil path.

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Rote Flüh Südwand

🄴
Basic information

The broad alignment of the south-west face and the south face of the Rote Flüh is one of the most interesting climbing destinations in the Tannheim mountains.

Number of routes
10
Grade
4 - 9-
🐲
Approach time
10 min - 1 h 30 min
🞂
Exposure
SW, S
Show routes
Welcome to Tijuana  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
40m
8
2
35m
7-
3
20m
2
4
40m
7+
5
30m
8+
6
25m
7
7
25m
8-
8
40m
8
🄴
Basic information

Continuously heavy wall and slab climbing, where sometimes places in the seventh degree over a wedge have to be climbed. The first 10 meters are the same as on the south-east wall, then not to the left, but following the hooks straight up.

🅊
Grade
8+
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
9-
Number of pitches
7
🖜
Developer

J. Schmidt, Christoph Mieger 2000

Route length
280 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
220 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Equipment
A set of stoppers and a set of Camalots (with intermediate sizes) are more than useful, reduce the cable pull 2-3 webbing slings
Approach

From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.

Descent

Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the hut.

Or on the Friedberger Klettersteig down to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully to the beginning of the abseil path.

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Südostwand  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
35m
6+
2
35m
4
3
40m
4
4
45m
5-
5
30m
6
6
30m
5
7
25m
8
20m
4-
9
45m
3-
10
40m
2
🄴
Basic information

Rewarding wall and chimney climbing, which can usually be approached directly via the lower part of the south-east crack or alternatively via an interesting slab cross-crossing from the south-wall firs. After longer rainfalls the big chimney can be quite unpleasant.

🅊
Grade
6+ü
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
5+
Number of pitches
10
🖜
Developer

H. Schertel und Gef. 1929

Route length
300 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
230 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Approach

From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.

Descent

Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the hut.

Or on the Friedberger Klettersteig down to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully to the beginning of the abseil path.

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Direkte Südwand  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
50m
5-
2
35m
5+
3
55m
4
4
25m
4+
5
30m
5
6
15m
5
7
40m
6
8
45m
5
9
40m
4-
🄴
Basic information

Classic climbing along the striking crack and chimney system with a hefty double bulge as the key point. After rain unfortunately especially long wet and at the beginning of the chimney system also a bit brittle.

🅊
Grade
6
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
5+
Number of pitches
9
🖜
Developer

O. Leixl, v. Overkamp, v. Schwerin 1920

Route length
310 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
240 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Approach

From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.

Descent

Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the hut.

Or on the Friedberger Klettersteig down to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully to the beginning of the abseil path.

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Zentralpfeiler  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
50m
5-
2
35m
5+
3
15m
3
4
40m
8+
5
30m
7
6
25m
6+
7
30m
8
8
35m
6-
9
40m
3
🄴
Basic information

Varied climbing with a strenuous fist break in the second pitch. The most direct line from the three trees to the summit. For a long time this route was considered the most difficult on the Rote Flüh. Since its restoration by the first climbers, the route has become one of the most popular free climbing classics in the area.

Shortly before going to press, we received the news that after a rock outburst in the 2nd pitch, a free ascent is pending.

 

🅊
Grade
8
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6+
Number of pitches
10
🖜
Developer

H. Reisach, G. Geisenberger 1969

Route length
320 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
240 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Equipment
Renovated, no stoppers or camalots are necessary
Approach

From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.

Descent

Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the hut.

Or on the Friedberger Klettersteig down to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully to the beginning of the abseil path.

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Südverschneidung  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
50m
5-
2
35m
5+
3
15m
3
4
30m
6+
5
45m
6
6
35m
6
7
35m
6+
🄴
Basic information

As one of Walter Pause's 100 extreme routes, it was excessively climbed and accordingly badly climbed. Especially in the "Yellow Rift" away from the trees one may curse quietly. Nevertheless still a delicacy with many exquisite climbing spots. It is usually used in connection with the Direct Entry and is also shown in the topo.

🅊
Grade
6+
Number of pitches
8
🖜
Developer

A. Kleemeier, L. SChuster 1953

Route length
310 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
240 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Equipment
Renovated, wedges still advisable
Approach

From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.

Descent

Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the hut.

Or on the Friedberger Klettersteig down to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully to the beginning of the abseil path.

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König Hinkelstein  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
35m
7
2
35m
7-
3
30m
7
4
15m
8-
5
15m
5
6
15m
5
7
25m
7+
8
30m
9-
9
30m
8-
10
25m
3
🄴
Basic information

Sport climbing in excellent rock, but with somewhat artificial lines. In the meantime also free climbing. Rating suggestion: 9-

🅊
Grade
9-
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
8
Number of pitches
10
🖜
Developer

R. Hillenbrand, A. Whrmann 1992

Route length
150 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
240 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Approach

From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.

Descent

Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the hut.

Or on the Friedberger Klettersteig down to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully to the beginning of the abseil path.

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Spiderman  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
30m
6c/6c+
2
15m
7b/7b+
3
35m
7a/7b
4
40m
7b/7b+
5
35m
7a/7b
6
30m
4a
7
35m
7b/7b+
8
30m
7c
9
20m
5a
10
25m
3c
🄴
Basic information

At the moment certainly the most demanding route of the south face. The difficulties are very homogeneous and persistent, and the rock is of the finest quality.

🅊
Grade
9
Number of pitches
10
🖜
Developer

Walter Hölzler 2002

Route length
300 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Equipment
12 extruders, 2 tape slings and a double rope should be sufficient
Approach

From Gimpelhaus keep left to the south wall

Descent

Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the hut.

Or on the Friedberger Klettersteig down to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully to the beginning of the abseil path.

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Via Barbara  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
35m
7
2
35m
7-
3
30m
7
4
15m
8-
5
30m
7+
6
20m
8+
7
20m
8-
8
20m
8
9
40m
8-
10
25m
2
🄴
Basic information

Excellent wall and slab climbing in consistently best rock. To find this, the route crosses several classics. Be aware of the danger of falling rocks from the exit gorge of the Old Southwnad in the lower pitches!

🅊
Grade
8+
Number of pitches
10
🖜
Developer

Toni Schweißgut, 1. RP Markus Lutz

Route length
350 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
240 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Equipment
The security is not inferior to the rock quality, wedges can remain in the rucksack
Approach

From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.

Descent

Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the hut.

Or on the Friedberger Klettersteig down to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully to the beginning of the abseil path.

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Baseclimbs  
Nr.
Length
Grad
🄴
Basic information

For all routes it is recommended to take an assortment of small and medium sized wedges and some narrow slings. Put your helmet on! The Route Moritz was left in its original state and is difficult to find. On the Bello e impossibile the spot before the second hook is difficult to secure. A fall ends on the ground!


Max (5+/30m) - Toni Freudig and Gef., 1987

Climbing circus (6/30m) - Toni Freudig and Gef., 1987

Moritz (5+735m) - Toni Freudig and Gef., 19987

Nose drops (8-/30m) - Toni Freudig, 1987

Bello e impossibile (8+/35m) - Toni Freudig, 1988

🞂
Exposure
SW, S
Approach

From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.

Descent

Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the hut.

Or on the Friedberger Klettersteig down to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully to the beginning of the abseil path.

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Alte Südwand  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
35m
3
2
35m
3
3
45m
5+
4
45m
4-
5
40m
3+
6
40m
2
7
40m
2
8
30m
4-
9
50m
2
🄴
Basic information

Frequent climbing, which takes the logical and easiest way through the south face along ramps and chimneys. The key point, the chimney leading to the pillar, is wet for a long time after rain and in spring it may be icy. The danger of falling rocks from the upper easy part of the route should not be underestimated. A helmet is absolutely mandatory!

If you can gain a degree, you can avoid the ramp at the beginning and the very worn slippery chimney via the direct entry. This variant is shown in dotted lines on the topo.

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

🅊
Grade
4
Number of pitches
9
🖜
Developer

Braß, Männer, v. Schwerin, 1919

Route length
260 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
180 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Equipment
Drill hooks are inserted in the heavy areas, but clamping wedges are indispensable for additional securing
Approach

From the car park northwest of Nesselwängle on the marked path in 1 to 1.5 hours to the Gimpelhaus.

Descent

Either on the normal route to the summit and from there the polished plates (partly secured with wire rope) north down to the Judenscharte and through the Gimpelkar back to the hut.

Or on the Friedberger Klettersteig down to below the iron-clamped wall step. There through the gully to the beginning of the abseil path.

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Schafhöfle

🄴
Basic information

Es handelt sich um Erhebungen der Roten Flüh, bergsteigerisch wenig beteutend, bei Kletterern jedoch sehr beliebt, besonders auch im Winter.

Number of routes
7
Grade
6+ - ?
Show routes
Wir sind Grenzenlos  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
20m
6b
2
25m
6c+
🅊
Grade
?
Number of pitches
2
Route length
45 m
Equipment
15 Expressschlingen
Approach
Descent

Abseilen über Abseilspiste (siehe Topo)

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Kombifahrt  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
20m
6b
🅊
Grade
6+
Number of pitches
1
Route length
20 m
Approach
Descent
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fonte Gaillume  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
25m
6a+
🅊
Grade
7-
Number of pitches
1
Route length
25 m
Approach
Descent
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Parasympathikus  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
20m
6a
🅊
Grade
6+
Number of pitches
1
Route length
20 m
Approach
Descent
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Welcome to Verdon  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
25m
6b
2
25m
6a+
🅊
Grade
?
Number of pitches
2
Route length
50 m
Equipment
Klemmkeile und Friends ratsam
Approach
Descent

Abseilen über Abseilpiste (siehe Topo)

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Freudige Erregung  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
25m
6c
🅊
Grade
7+
Number of pitches
1
Route length
25 m
Approach
Descent
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Sympathikus  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
25m
7a
2
25m
7a
🅊
Grade
?
Number of pitches
2
Route length
50 m
Equipment
Exspresssxhlingen ausreichend
Approach
Descent

Siehe Topo!

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