Tannheimer Tal
Hochwiesler
Variant to the old south wall created in the course of the renovation. Suitable for bypassing the key point of the Old South Wall or in case of traffic jam in the same.
Toni Freudig, Bernd Strobach
From the hut on conspicuous paths under the south face of the Hochwiesler
Via the abseiling piste (very exposed, perfect abseiling technique required!). Abseiling via the Old South Wall (=old abseiling piste) should no longer be practised out of consideration for future rope teams.
Although partly already quite greased, still an extraordinarily beautiful pleasure climb. Numerous variations possible, but less rewarding.
K. Lang, Gef. 1928
From the hut on conspicuous paths under the south face of the Hochwiesler
Via the abseiling piste (very exposed, perfect abseiling technique required!). Abseiling via the Old South Wall (=old abseiling piste) should no longer be practised out of consideration for future rope teams.
Steep, airy and grippy like a tour of the Dolomites, and well secured. There is nothing to add to the words of the developer Hermann Reisach. The frequent repetitions speak for themselves and the quality of the climbing, which is hardly inferior to the classic south face.
Hermann Reisach, Michael Wildung 1993
From the hut on conspicuous paths under the south face of the Hochwiesler
Via the abseiling piste (very exposed, perfect abseiling technique required!). Abseiling via the Old South Wall (=old abseiling piste) should no longer be practised out of consideration for future rope teams.
Classic route with many interesting climbing sections. The A1 passage - a highly airy right-hand passage under a roof-like overhang - is also a great fun. Is almost only done in connection with the direct exit. Walter Hölzler has replaced the most important hooks in the roof-like overhang with bolts and created the conditions for free climbing, which Daniel Gebel succeeded in doing in 2011.
A. Kleemeier, L. Schuster 1954, Direktausstieg: H. Kettner, D. Ohngemach 1956
From the hut on conspicuous paths under the south face of the Hochwiesler
Via the abseiling piste (very exposed, perfect abseiling technique required!). Abseiling via the Old South Wall (=old abseiling piste) should no longer be practised out of consideration for future rope teams.
Excellent climbing with many elegant passages. Even more popular since the renovation. A small range of wedges is advisable. Especially worthwhile is the combination with the upper part of the south pillar, the so-called Südwandverhau (completely renovated)
L. Schuster, J. Tauscher 1959, Südwandvrhau: M. Lut, W. Mayr, R. Retzlaff 1981
From the hut on conspicuous paths under the south face of the Hochwiesler
Via the abseiling piste (very exposed, perfect abseiling technique required!). Abseiling via the Old South Wall (=old abseiling piste) should no longer be practised out of consideration for future rope teams.
The absolutely most direct route on the Hochwiesler Südwand. Already in the flat entry rope length on the grass band, it's a small tackle, and from then on it only gets easier in the second rope length. The route has now been climbed down, but you may use one or two loose stones.
Sani Heinl, Peter Illner 2000
From the hut on conspicuous paths under the south face of the Hochwiesler
Via the abseiling piste (very exposed, perfect abseiling technique required!). Abseiling via the Old South Wall (=old abseiling piste) should no longer be practised out of consideration for future rope teams.
Combination guide which uses parts of several routes and moves diagonally from the bottom right to the top left through the walls. Entry at the Fehnlepfeiler. Crossing to the Georg-Geisenberger-Ged.-Weg. Crossing to the southern crack in the upper part then crossing to the Schusterführe and exit via this.
Hermann Reisach, Peter Lutz 1988
From the hut on conspicuous paths under the south face of the Hochwiesler.
Via the abseiling piste (very exposed, perfect abseiling technique required!). Abseiling via the Old South Wall (=old abseiling piste) should no longer be practised out of consideration for future rope teams.
These are rather short routes and are suitable in uncertain weather conditions or if, for example, after a longer tour on the Rote Flüh you still feel like climbing.
Homogeneous tour in the 4th degree, beautiful ridge climbing in alpine terrain, ideal for beginners with some climbing experience. In bad weather you can cross to the left to the abseiling point at several places, so that the tour can be cancelled at any time. Rocks partly quite brittle.
Peter Schwarzmann, Uwe Schneider 2005
From the huts on the trail, follow the path in the direction of Judenscharte as far as the memorial cross, from there you cross the trail horizontally to the left under the wall (20 minutes).
There are two possibilities:
Either abseil 3 times through the gorge on the left side of the hut ridge, the first abseiling point is about 10m west of the exits.
Or climb up to a plateau via Schrofen, past the Thomaswändle climbing garden and from there you can descend towards the Judenscharte.
At the beginning a bit rough climbing but overall nice homogeneous climbing. At the end of the first pitch the key spot is waiting, a short left traverse to the first belaystation. In case of complications you can abseil down the route without problems.
Peter Schwarzmann, Jörg Kühn 2005
From the huts on the trail, follow the path in the direction of Judenscharte as far as the memorial cross, from there you cross the trail horizontally to the left under the wall.
There are two possibilities:
Either abseil 3 times through the gorge on the left side of the hut ridge, the first abseiling point is about 10m west of the exits.
Or climb up to a plateau via Schrofen, past the Thomaswändle climbing garden and from there you can descend towards the Judenscharte.
From the entrance to the right over the ridge ridge to a cut then over rough terrain to the first stand. In the middle a compact slab is waiting for us at the end. Also in this route you can rappel at any time.
Peter Schwarzmann, Thomas Engst 2005
From the huts on the trail, follow the path in the direction of Judenscharte as far as the memorial cross, from there you cross the trail horizontally to the left under the wall.
There are two possibilities:
Either abseil 3 times through the gorge on the left side of the hut ridge, the first abseiling point is about 10m west of the exits.
Or climb up to a plateau via Schrofen, pass the climbing garden Thömaswändle and from there you can descend towards the Judenscharte.
Actually, the Hochwielser is nothing more than a ridge spur of the Rote Flüh. While normal mountaineers pay no attention to it, climbers have long since regarded it as a destination in its own right because of its steep southern slopes. The dust-dry wall is particularly popular in spring.
At the Hochwieslersporn, which immediately adjoins the red Flüh, and in the yellow overhanging south-west face, ambitious sport climbers get their money's worth. The sometimes extremely steep routes demand a good deal of strength endurance.
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)
Very exposed and athletic climbing that is highly recommended for alpine ambitious sport climbers.
Walter Hölzler, Tobias Wolf 2000
From the hut keeping left under the walls to Hochwiesler
Direction Hochwiesler and abseil down the normal abseiling piste - double rope necessary
SOUTH WEST WALL: An absolute classic. Since its renovation, the short but impressive route offers contemporary climbing enjoyment. It is best to climb in the afternoon when the sun is in the wall.
HOLDING PROHIBITED: The route, first climbed from below, offers impressive climbing in an almost unparalleled espositon. After the 2nd pitch, the route branches off from the SW wall to the right into the most overhanging part of the wall.
A. Kleemeier, L. Schuster 1954; Saniert und in der Linie leicht verändert: Walter Hölzler 1999
From the hut keeping left under the walls to Hochwiesler
Direction Hochwiesler and abseil down the normal abseiling piste - double rope necessary
The rough line of the route is perhaps the oldest climbing on the Hochwiesler. Partly quite steep, varied climbing on solid rough rock.
Hermann Reisach, Michael Wildung 1994
From the hut keeping left under the walls to Hochwiesler
Direction Hochwiesler and abseil down the normal abseiling piste - double rope necessary
Varied climbing with tricky slabs and athletic climbing in the exit intersection, better get in in the afternoon, then you can also enjoy the sun.
Walter Hälzler, Rico Förster 2005
From the huts keep left to the wall
Partially free-hanging abseil over the abseiling slope. Very exposed, a perfect abseiling technique is an absolute must.
After the interesting, dolomite-like entry intersection of the Harde-Graser memorial path, there follow magnificent slab rope lengths in good rock. The route is somewhat easier than the Via Barbara, but comparable in its nature.
Walter Hölzler, Nico Galauch
From the hut keeping left under the walls to Hochwiesler
For the abseiling slope of the Hochwiesler a 50 meter double rope is required. Only abseil over the route if no rope teams follow.
Combination of different routes. The first rope length was equipped with bolts by Jürgen Geiger in 1984 and is often used as a base climb. The 2nd and 3rd SL were secured with bra by W. Mayru nd A. Schmid around 1980 and are repeated occasionally. The exit over the 5th to 7th SL was made by E. Lehner and W. Mayr, is poorly secured and is hardly ever repeated. The violin variant in the middle part is also only moderately secured.
From the hut keeping left under the walls to Hochwiesler
Partially free-hanging abseil over the abseiling slope. Very exposed, a perfect abseiling technique is an absolute must!
Throughout rewarding climbs in very good rock. If after a long route you still want a candy on top, just the right thing.
The routes:
1. Pavellas
2. Highway der Träume
3. Kombifahrt
4. Fonte Gaillume
5. Wir sind grenzenlos
6. Parasympathikus
7. Welcome to Verdon
8. Freudige Erregung
9. Sympathikus
40 - 50m up to the big grass band.
Divert or abseil over the routes.
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