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Hochwiesler

Number of routes
18
🞱
Altidude
1950 m

Hochwiesler Südwand

🄴
Basic information

Actually, the Hochwielser is nothing more than a ridge spur of the Rote Flüh. While normal mountaineers pay no attention to it, climbers have long since regarded it as a destination in its own right because of its steep southern slopes. The dust-dry wall is particularly popular in spring.


At the Hochwieslersporn, which immediately adjoins the red Flüh, and in the yellow overhanging south-west face, ambitious sport climbers get their money's worth. The sometimes extremely steep routes demand a good deal of strength endurance.


Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

Number of routes
7
Grade
6+ - 8+ - ?
🞂
Exposure
SW, S
Show routes
Highway der Träume  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
30m
6c+
2
20m
5c+
3
20m
7a
4
25m
6b/6b+
5
15m
6b/6b+
6
20m
7a
7
20m
3a
🄴
Basic information

Varied climbing with tricky slabs and athletic climbing in the exit intersection, better get in in the afternoon, then you can also enjoy the sun.

🅊
Grade
8
Number of pitches
7
🖜
Developer

Walter Hälzler, Rico Förster 2005

Route length
140 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
170 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Equipment
Genügend Expressen
Approach

From the huts keep left to the wall

Descent

Partially free-hanging abseil over the abseiling slope. Very exposed, a perfect abseiling technique is an absolute must.

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Pavelas  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
25m
6-
2
35m
5+
3
35m
7-
4
25m
7
🄴
Basic information

The rough line of the route is perhaps the oldest climbing on the Hochwiesler. Partly quite steep, varied climbing on solid rough rock.

🅊
Grade
7
Number of pitches
4
🖜
Developer

Hermann Reisach, Michael Wildung 1994

Route length
140 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
170 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Equipment
Mainly secured with borehooks
Approach

From the hut keeping left under the walls to Hochwiesler

Descent

Direction Hochwiesler and abseil down the normal abseiling piste - double rope necessary

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Südwestwand und Halteverbot  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
30m
5a
2
65m
6b
3
30m
6a+
4
20m
6c+
🄴
Basic information

SOUTH WEST WALL: An absolute classic. Since its renovation, the short but impressive route offers contemporary climbing enjoyment. It is best to climb in the afternoon when the sun is in the wall.

HOLDING PROHIBITED: The route, first climbed from below, offers impressive climbing in an almost unparalleled espositon. After the 2nd pitch, the route branches off from the SW wall to the right into the most overhanging part of the wall.

🅊
Grade
?
Number of pitches
4
🖜
Developer

A. Kleemeier, L. Schuster 1954; Saniert und in der Linie leicht verändert: Walter Hölzler 1999

Route length
145 m
Equipment
15 presses and one double rope is enough
Approach

From the hut keeping left under the walls to Hochwiesler

Descent

Direction Hochwiesler and abseil down the normal abseiling piste - double rope necessary

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Gelbfieber  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
20m
8+
2
30m
8+
3
20m
7+
4
20m
9-
5
20m
8-
🄴
Basic information

Very exposed and athletic climbing that is highly recommended for alpine ambitious sport climbers.

🅊
Grade
9-
Number of pitches
5
🖜
Developer

Walter Hölzler, Tobias Wolf 2000

Route length
100 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
90 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Equipment
10 Expressen, und 50m Doppelseil
Approach

From the hut keeping left under the walls to Hochwiesler

Descent

Direction Hochwiesler and abseil down the normal abseiling piste - double rope necessary

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Baseclimbs  
Nr.
Length
Grad
🄴
Basic information

Throughout rewarding climbs in very good rock. If after a long route you still want a candy on top, just the right thing.


The routes:

1. Pavellas

2. Highway der Träume

3. Kombifahrt

4. Fonte Gaillume

5. Wir sind grenzenlos

6. Parasympathikus

7. Welcome to Verdon

8. Freudige Erregung

9. Sympathikus

🅊
Grade
6+ - 8+
🞂
Exposure
SW, S
Approach

40 - 50m up to the big grass band.

Descent

Divert or abseil over the routes.

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Kombifahrt (komplett)  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
40m
6+
2
25m
2
3
30m
5+
4
25m
7-
5
30m
7
6
25m
4
🄴
Basic information

Combination of different routes. The first rope length was equipped with bolts by Jürgen Geiger in 1984 and is often used as a base climb. The 2nd and 3rd SL were secured with bra by W. Mayru nd A. Schmid around 1980 and are repeated occasionally. The exit over the 5th to 7th SL was made by E. Lehner and W. Mayr, is poorly secured and is hardly ever repeated. The violin variant in the middle part is also only moderately secured.

🅊
Grade
7
Number of pitches
6
Route length
180 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
170 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Approach

From the hut keeping left under the walls to Hochwiesler

Descent

Partially free-hanging abseil over the abseiling slope. Very exposed, a perfect abseiling technique is an absolute must!

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Schwarze Mamba  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
35m
8-
2
25m
8
3
45m
7
4
20m
5+
5
40m
6+
6
40m
6
7
35m
7+
8
30m
5
🄴
Basic information

After the interesting, dolomite-like entry intersection of the Harde-Graser memorial path, there follow magnificent slab rope lengths in good rock. The route is somewhat easier than the Via Barbara, but comparable in its nature.

🅊
Grade
8
Number of pitches
9
🖜
Developer

Walter Hölzler, Nico Galauch

Route length
270 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Equipment
Perfectly drilled, one 50m rope, 12 express slings, helmet. 50. double rope for rappelling.
Approach

From the hut keeping left under the walls to Hochwiesler

Descent

For the abseiling slope of the Hochwiesler a 50 meter double rope is required. Only abseil over the route if no rope teams follow.

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Hochwiesler Ostsporn

🄴
Basic information

These are rather short routes and are suitable in uncertain weather conditions or if, for example, after a longer tour on the Rote Flüh you still feel like climbing.

Number of routes
3
Grade
4+ - 6+
🞂
Exposure
O
Show routes
Hirschbrunft  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
15m
6a
2
15m
5b
3
20m
5b
4
25m
3a
🄴
Basic information

From the entrance to the right over the ridge ridge to a cut then over rough terrain to the first stand. In the middle a compact slab is waiting for us at the end. Also in this route you can rappel at any time.

🅊
Grade
6+
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
7-
Number of pitches
4
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann, Thomas Engst 2005

Route length
110 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
80 m
🞂
Exposure
O
Approach

From the huts on the trail, follow the path in the direction of Judenscharte as far as the memorial cross, from there you cross the trail horizontally to the left under the wall.

Descent

There are two possibilities:

Either abseil 3 times through the gorge on the left side of the hut ridge, the first abseiling point is about 10m west of the exits.

 

Or climb up to a plateau via Schrofen, pass the climbing garden Thömaswändle and from there you can descend towards the Judenscharte.

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s`Bienchen  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
15m
6a
2
15m
5B
3
20m
5B
4
25m
3A
🄴
Basic information

At the beginning a bit rough climbing but overall nice homogeneous climbing. At the end of the first pitch the key spot is waiting, a short left traverse to the first belaystation. In case of complications you can abseil down the route without problems.

🅊
Grade
6+
Number of pitches
4
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann, Jörg Kühn 2005

🔋
Blockhöhe max
80 m
🞂
Exposure
O
Approach

From the huts on the trail, follow the path in the direction of Judenscharte as far as the memorial cross, from there you cross the trail horizontally to the left under the wall.

Descent

There are two possibilities:

Either abseil 3 times through the gorge on the left side of the hut ridge, the first abseiling point is about 10m west of the exits.

 

Or climb up to a plateau via Schrofen, past the Thomaswändle climbing garden and from there you can descend towards the Judenscharte.

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Hüttengrat  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
20m
4a
2
30m
4a
3
30m
4b
4
20m
3a
5
25m
3a
🄴
Basic information

Homogeneous tour in the 4th degree, beautiful ridge climbing in alpine terrain, ideal for beginners with some climbing experience. In bad weather you can cross to the left to the abseiling point at several places, so that the tour can be cancelled at any time. Rocks partly quite brittle.

🅊
Grade
4+
Number of pitches
5
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann, Uwe Schneider 2005

Route length
125 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
90 m
🞂
Exposure
O
Approach

From the huts on the trail, follow the path in the direction of Judenscharte as far as the memorial cross, from there you cross the trail horizontally to the left under the wall (20 minutes).

Descent

There are two possibilities:

Either abseil 3 times through the gorge on the left side of the hut ridge, the first abseiling point is about 10m west of the exits.

 

Or climb up to a plateau via Schrofen, past the Thomaswändle climbing garden and from there you can descend towards the Judenscharte.

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Hochwiesler Südwand

Number of routes
7
Grade
10- - ?
Show routes
Alle Neune  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
35m
6-
2
50m
6+
3
15m
4
25m
8-
5
20m
7+
6
30m
5+
7
25m
7
8
30m
6+
9
35m
6-
🄴
Basic information

Combination guide which uses parts of several routes and moves diagonally from the bottom right to the top left through the walls. Entry at the Fehnlepfeiler. Crossing to the Georg-Geisenberger-Ged.-Weg. Crossing to the southern crack in the upper part then crossing to the Schusterführe and exit via this.

🅊
Grade
?
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
7-
🖜
Developer

Hermann Reisach, Peter Lutz 1988

Route length
230 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
160 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Equipment
Plaisiermäßig mit V2A Bolts und Irniger Plättli abgesichert, 12 Expressschlingen
Approach

From the hut on conspicuous paths under the south face of the Hochwiesler.

Descent

Via the abseiling piste (very exposed, perfect abseiling technique required!). Abseiling via the Old South Wall (=old abseiling piste) should no longer be practised out of consideration for future rope teams.

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Polarstern  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
20m
8
2
30m
7+
3
30m
8+
4
35m
8-
5
35m
8+
🄴
Basic information

The absolutely most direct route on the Hochwiesler Südwand. Already in the flat entry rope length on the grass band, it's a small tackle, and from then on it only gets easier in the second rope length. The route has now been climbed down, but you may use one or two loose stones.

🅊
Grade
8+
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
7+
Number of pitches
5
🖜
Developer

Sani Heinl, Peter Illner 2000

Route length
150 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
150 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Approach

From the hut on conspicuous paths under the south face of the Hochwiesler

Descent

Via the abseiling piste (very exposed, perfect abseiling technique required!). Abseiling via the Old South Wall (=old abseiling piste) should no longer be practised out of consideration for future rope teams.

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Schusterführe  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
35m
5
2
40m
6-
3
30m
6
4
30m
6+
5
35m
6-
6
30m
6
🄴
Basic information

Excellent climbing with many elegant passages. Even more popular since the renovation. A small range of wedges is advisable. Especially worthwhile is the combination with the upper part of the south pillar, the so-called Südwandverhau (completely renovated)

🅊
Grade
6+
Number of pitches
7
🖜
Developer

L. Schuster, J. Tauscher 1959, Südwandvrhau: M. Lut, W. Mayr, R. Retzlaff 1981

Route length
220 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
160 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Approach

From the hut on conspicuous paths under the south face of the Hochwiesler

Descent

Via the abseiling piste (very exposed, perfect abseiling technique required!). Abseiling via the Old South Wall (=old abseiling piste) should no longer be practised out of consideration for future rope teams.

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Südpfeiler  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
35m
5
2
40m
7-
3
30m
3
4
20m
7-
5
25m
10
6
30m
6-
7
35m
6+
8
25m
4+
🄴
Basic information

Classic route with many interesting climbing sections. The A1 passage - a highly airy right-hand passage under a roof-like overhang - is also a great fun. Is almost only done in connection with the direct exit. Walter Hölzler has replaced the most important hooks in the roof-like overhang with bolts and created the conditions for free climbing, which Daniel Gebel succeeded in doing in 2011.

🅊
Grade
10-
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
10
Number of pitches
8
🖜
Developer

A. Kleemeier, L. Schuster 1954, Direktausstieg: H. Kettner, D. Ohngemach 1956

Route length
220 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
160 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Approach

From the hut on conspicuous paths under the south face of the Hochwiesler

Descent

Via the abseiling piste (very exposed, perfect abseiling technique required!). Abseiling via the Old South Wall (=old abseiling piste) should no longer be practised out of consideration for future rope teams.

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Via Anita  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
30m
5
2
30m
5+
3
25m
3
4
20m
5
5
45m
5
6
25m
4-
7
25m
5
🄴
Basic information

Steep, airy and grippy like a tour of the Dolomites, and well secured. There is nothing to add to the words of the developer Hermann Reisach. The frequent repetitions speak for themselves and the quality of the climbing, which is hardly inferior to the classic south face.

🅊
Grade
6
🖜
Developer

Hermann Reisach, Michael Wildung 1993

Route length
180 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
140 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Equipment
Mainly secured with borehooks. Some hourglass loops and wedges additionally advisable
Approach

From the hut on conspicuous paths under the south face of the Hochwiesler

Descent

Via the abseiling piste (very exposed, perfect abseiling technique required!). Abseiling via the Old South Wall (=old abseiling piste) should no longer be practised out of consideration for future rope teams.

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Alte Südwand  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
25m
4+
2
20m
6
3
35m
4+
4
40m
4+
5
45m
3
🄴
Basic information

Although partly already quite greased, still an extraordinarily beautiful pleasure climb. Numerous variations possible, but less rewarding.

🅊
Grade
?
🖜
Developer

K. Lang, Gef. 1928

Route length
150 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
120 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Equipment
Hourglass loops and possibly a set of stoppers useful
Approach

From the hut on conspicuous paths under the south face of the Hochwiesler

Descent

Via the abseiling piste (very exposed, perfect abseiling technique required!). Abseiling via the Old South Wall (=old abseiling piste) should no longer be practised out of consideration for future rope teams.

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FöVe 97  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
45m
5+
2
35m
4+
3
40m
5
4
25m
5+
5
40m
5+
🄴
Basic information

Variant to the old south wall created in the course of the renovation. Suitable for bypassing the key point of the Old South Wall or in case of traffic jam in the same.

🅊
Grade
?
🖜
Developer

Toni Freudig, Bernd Strobach

Route length
50 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
170 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Approach

From the hut on conspicuous paths under the south face of the Hochwiesler

Descent

Via the abseiling piste (very exposed, perfect abseiling technique required!). Abseiling via the Old South Wall (=old abseiling piste) should no longer be practised out of consideration for future rope teams.

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