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Gimpel (2.173m)

🄴
Basic information

The routes on the Gimpel are beautifully situated, offer a magnificent panorama and are mostly well secured. The climbing area is easy to reach and is accordingly busy. This means that you have to expect traffic on the tours and have to take into account waiting times.


Despite the popularity and the meanwhile good protection with bolts one should not forget that this is an alpine climbing area. The appropriate equipment is therefore mandatory!


There are three climbing guides for the region: one by Toni Freudig (see


www.freudig.de) "Climbing on the sunny side of Tannheim" resp. by the same author "Climbing in the heart of Tannheim" and also a climbing guide from the Panico publishing house! Alpin Allgäu incl. Tannheim mountains by Achim Pasold published by Panico Verlag! The climbing guides are available at the Gimpelhaus.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Number of routes
18
🞱
Altidude
1920 m
🕞
Arrival and public transport

In Nesselwängle parken und von dort (Parkplatz) dauert es ca. 1h 15min bis zum Gimpelhaus. Auf Wunsch ist auch ein Gepäcktransport mit der Materialseilbahn möglich. Wer möchte kann auch am Gimpelhaus (1659m) übernachten - siehe (www.tannheimertal.at/gimpelhaus).

Als Möglichkeit steht auch noch die Tannheimer Hütte (1760m) zur Verfügung. Der Zustieg dauert nur 15min länger - siehe tannheimer-huette@alpenverein-kempten.de

Von beiden Hütten dauert der Weg zu den Einstiegen ca. 30min.

🐈
Parking

In Nesselwängle near the Gimpelhaus car park

GPS position
Long: 10.61251, Lat: 47.50128

Gimpel Südwand

🄴
Basic information

The south wall runs through a narrow grid of sun-exposed and pleasurable rouens and therefore enjoys much greater popularity than the dark and serious north wall.


Popular since time immemorial are the "Westrat", which borders the wall on the left, with the famous "Nur Mut Johann" spot and the "Alte Südwand". If you can gain some more weight there, you should take the somewhat more demanding "gourmet variant" in the upper part.

Among the more difficult routes, the "New Southeast Edge" has become a magnet in recent years - particularly good protection is also highly valued in the Allgäu.

In all routes the danger of falling rocks should not be underestimated and also the descent can be very unpleasant in wet conditions.

Number of routes
12
Grade
3+ - 7-
🐲
Approach time
30 min - 40 min
🞂
Exposure
S, SO
Show routes
Weihnachtsweg  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
35m
6
2
30m
6+
3
25m
5
🄴
Basic information

Rewarding slab climbing over blunt, partly water eroded pillars. Ideal as an additional treat after a longer south face route. From the normal route easy to get on.

🅊
Grade
6+
Number of pitches
3
🖜
Developer

T. Freudig, W. Mayr

Route length
100 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
80 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SO
Approach

From the Gimpelhaus on a marked path into the Gimpelkar and along the foot of the wall (watch out for falling rocks - put on your helmet!) to the entrances (30 to 40 min.)

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
40 min
Descent

From the summit in about 50 minutes on the normal path, which is very uncomfortable in wet conditions, or, if you want to go a little further, on the forgotten normal path down to the foot of the wall (2-). Pay attention to the danger of falling rocks!

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
50 min
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Linie 85  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
30m
6-
2
20m
6
3
35m
7-
4
40m
6+
5
30m
7-
🄴
Basic information

Difficult climbing in mostly solid rock.

🅊
Grade
7-
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6
Number of pitches
5
🖜
Developer

Toni Freudig, Ralf Tenbrink

Route length
150 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
120 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SO
Equipment
1998 completely renovated
Approach

From the Gimpelhaus on a marked path into the Gimpelkar and along the foot of the wall (watch out for falling rocks - put on your helmet!) to the entrances (30 to 40 min.)

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
40 min
Descent

From the summit in about 50 minutes on the normal path, which is very uncomfortable in wet conditions, or, if you want to go a little further, on the forgotten normal path down to the foot of the wall (2-). Pay attention to the danger of falling rocks!

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
50 min
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Südostkamin  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
45m
3
2
45m
3+
3
45m
3-
4
45m
2
5
30m
4
6
30m
4
7
30m
4
8
30m
4
🄴
Basic information

The to the rewarding south-east chimney is easy to reach from the normal route, so that the short route is often connected to a longer south wall route. The best access from the foot of the wall is on the lower part of the partly marked south-east wall route (3+, mostly 2 and3, top left of the south-east chimney).

🅊
Grade
4+
Number of pitches
8
🖜
Developer

E. Gretschmann, O. Leixl, b. Schwerin

Route length
120 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
100 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SO
Approach

From the Gimpelhaus on a marked path into the Gimpelkar and along the foot of the wall (watch out for falling rocks - put on your helmet!) to the entrances (30 to 40 min.)

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
40 min
Descent

From the summit in about 50 minutes on the normal path, which is very uncomfortable in wet conditions, or, if you want to go a little further, on the forgotten normal path down to the foot of the wall (2-). Pay attention to the danger of falling rocks!

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
50 min
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Westgrat  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
35m
2+
2
45m
2+
3
45m
3+
4
40m
3-
5
45m
3-
6
m
1
🄴
Basic information

Nice ridge climbing with two strenuous key points. Especially the steep upswing of "Nur Mut Johann" requires a strong grip (possibly a step sling).

🅊
Grade
6
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
4-
Number of pitches
6
🖜
Developer

J. Bachschmid, A. Weixler, E. Christa

Route length
230 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
170 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SO
Equipment
Some clamping wedges and longer slings are advantageous
Approach

From the Gimpelhaus on a marked path into the Gimpelkar and along the foot of the wall (watch out for falling rocks - put on your helmet!) to the entrances (30 to 40 min.)

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
40 min
Descent

From the summit in about 50 minutes on the normal path, which is very uncomfortable in wet conditions, or, if you want to go a little further, on the forgotten normal path down to the foot of the wall (2-). Pay attention to the danger of falling rocks!

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
50 min
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Südwestrampe  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
40m
2
2
45m
5
🄴
Basic information

The quality of the rock is not absolutely exhilarating, but if the weather is rather uncertain or if you have a small appetite for rock, this is a good alternative destination. Danger of falling rocks from the west ridge!

🅊
Grade
5
Number of pitches
2
🞂
Exposure
S, SO
Equipment
AV rings at the stands, bra as intermediate safety devices. Possibly some wedges
Approach

From the Gimpelhaus on a marked path into the Gimpelkar and along the foot of the wall (watch out for falling rocks - put on your helmet!) to the entrances (30 to 40 min.)

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
40 min
Descent

From the summit in about 50 minutes on the normal path, which is very uncomfortable in wet conditions, or, if you want to go a little further, on the forgotten normal path down to the foot of the wall (2-). Pay attention to the danger of falling rocks!

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
50 min
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Südwestkamin  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
10m
1
2
30m
2+
3
40m
4+
4
40m
4
5
40m
4+
6
50m
4-
7
45m
3-
🄴
Basic information

Worthwhile alternative to the often overcrowded west ridge, chimney, crack and intersection climbing throughout.

🅊
Grade
4+
Number of pitches
6
🖜
Developer

M. Schweiger, L. Huber

🞂
Exposure
S, SO
Equipment
AV rings and drill hooks, some wedges advisable.
Approach

From the Gimpelhaus on a marked path into the Gimpelkar and along the foot of the wall (watch out for falling rocks - put on your helmet!) to the entrances (30 to 40 min.)

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
40 min
Descent

From the summit in about 50 minutes on the normal path, which is very uncomfortable in wet conditions, or, if you want to go a little further, on the forgotten normal path down to the foot of the wall (2-). Pay attention to the danger of falling rocks!

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
50 min
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Neue Südwand  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
45m
6
2
30m
3
3
20m
4
4
40m
4
5
30m
4-
6
25m
5-
7
30m
4
8
30m
3+
9
m
2
🄴
Basic information

Diversified climbing, which has become increasingly popular in recent years. Especially in the upper part of the slab, there are some unexpectedly power-sapping overhangs and some delicious elegant spots waiting for good technicians.

🅊
Grade
7-
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
5+
Number of pitches
9
🖜
Developer

M. Schweiger, L. Huber

Route length
230 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
200 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SO
Approach

From the Gimpelhaus on a marked path into the Gimpelkar and along the foot of the wall (watch out for falling rocks - put on your helmet!) to the entrances (30 to 40 min.)

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
40 min
Descent

From the summit in about 50 minutes on the normal path, which is very uncomfortable in wet conditions, or, if you want to go a little further, on the forgotten normal path down to the foot of the wall (2-). Pay attention to the danger of falling rocks!

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
50 min
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Alte Südwand  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
10m
1
2
30m
2+
3
40m
4+
4
20m
4
5
30m
7-
6
30m
5
7
45m
3+
8
30m
2
9
30m
3+
10
m
2
🄴
Basic information

Rewarding, logical climbing through cracks and chimneys. On sunny weekends, you can escape the crowds by climbing early or late. In the lower part there are different variations possible. It is recommended to avoid the easy rope lengths in the upper part and to climb over the gourmet variant. Unfortunately it is now very greasy and prone to falling rocks.

🅊
Grade
4+
Number of pitches
8
🖜
Developer

R. Haff, H. Haff

Route length
280 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
200 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SO
Approach

From the Gimpelhaus on a marked path into the Gimpelkar and along the foot of the wall (watch out for falling rocks - put on your helmet!) to the entrances (30 to 40 min.)

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
40 min
Descent

From the summit in about 50 minutes on the normal path, which is very uncomfortable in wet conditions, or, if you want to go a little further, on the forgotten normal path down to the foot of the wall (2-). Pay attention to the danger of falling rocks!

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
50 min
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Genießervariante  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
30m
4-
2
25m
5-
🄴
Basic information

Worthwhile slab climbing, which primarily requires a clean foot technique. The variant leaves the original path in a large transverse passage in the middle of the wall and flows back into it at the beginning of the final intersection.

🅊
Grade
5-
Number of pitches
1
🖜
Developer

T. Freudig, S. Wendel

Route length
60 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SO
Approach

From the Gimpelhaus on a marked path into the Gimpelkar and along the foot of the wall (watch out for falling rocks - put on your helmet!) to the entrances (30 to 40 min.)

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
40 min
Descent

From the summit in about 50 minutes on the normal path, which is very uncomfortable in wet conditions, or, if you want to go a little further, on the forgotten normal path down to the foot of the wall (2-). Pay attention to the danger of falling rocks!

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
50 min
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Südostwand  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
45m
3
2
45m
3+
3
45m
3-
4
45m
2
5
40m
3
6
40m
3-
7
40m
3+
8
30m
3
🄴
Basic information

Rewarding route that is also suitable for beginners.

🅊
Grade
3+
Number of pitches
8
🖜
Developer

Toni Freudig

Route length
340 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
250 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SO
Equipment
Renovated
Approach

From the Gimpelhaus on a marked path into the Gimpelkar and along the foot of the wall (watch out for falling rocks - put on your helmet!) to the entrances (30 to 40 min.)

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
40 min
Descent

From the summit in about 50 minutes on the normal path, which is very uncomfortable in wet conditions, or, if you want to go a little further, on the forgotten normal path down to the foot of the wall (2-). Pay attention to the danger of falling rocks!

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
50 min
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Neue Südostkante  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
45m
3
2
45m
3+
3
45m
3
4
40m
4-
5
20m
6+
6
30m
3
7
30m
6
8
30m
7-
9
40m
6+
🄴
Basic information

Plaisir-like climbing, which does not follow the logical line, but the best rock. Almost throughout (still) rough solid limestone. For a better overview, the Old Southeast Kate (7- or 6-, A0) is dotted in the topo.

🅊
Grade
6
Number of pitches
8
🖜
Developer

T. Freudig, K. Straub

Route length
300 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
240 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SO
Approach

From the Gimpelhaus on a marked path into the Gimpelkar and along the foot of the wall (watch out for falling rocks - put on your helmet!) to the entrances (30 to 40 min.)

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
40 min
Descent

From the summit in about 50 minutes on the normal path, which is very uncomfortable in wet conditions, or, if you want to go a little further, on the forgotten normal path down to the foot of the wall (2-). Pay attention to the danger of falling rocks!

🐲
Gehzeit Abstieg
50 min
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Baseclimbs  
Nr.
Length
Grad
🄴
Basic information

Publikweg: approx. 80m, normal hook, little used

Lodererroute: approx. 120m, first SL worthwhile (at the stand there is a bra for abseiling), rest unworthwhile

Kusse-Riss: 30m, who is to be secured and who is to climb the strenuous Risskletterei of M. Nöß and T. Freudig from 1985

Erosion plates: 25m, baseclimbs first walked by T. Freudig with prisoners and secured with BH, SU and NH in compact water groove rock. Rewarding! Danger of falling rocks from the west ridge!

🅊
Grade
6
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6+
Approach
Descent
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Gimpel Nordwand

🄴
Basic information

The Gimpel is one of the highest mountains of the Tannheim Alps with a peak height of 2176 metres and its normal route over the SE flank and east ridge is a popular destination for demanding mountain hikers. The Gimpel offers climbers ascents of different kinds.

While the south side offers short, sunny pleasure routes, the rather gloomy north side offers a multitude of rarely used long and alpine climbing routes. 


One example is the striking "Schräge Riss". However, the north face primarily describes the new, modern or renovated routes and the climbing garden routes on the left-hand side of the wall.

Number of routes
5
Grade
6 - ?
🐲
Approach time
2 h - 2 h 30 min
🞂
Exposure
N
Show routes
Schräger Riss  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
40m
5
2
45m
2
3
40m
5+
4
40m
6
5
40m
5
6
45m
6-
7
35m
3+
8
45m
6
9
40m
2
10
60m
11
20m
12
55m
7
13
25m
6
🄴
Basic information

A prime example of the many classic routes on the Gimpel north face not described in this guide. The impressive crack and slab climbing is very rarely done and offers alpine ambitious climbers a real adventure. A few old rusty hooks demand the full wedge set, possibly also a few normal hooks and quite sovereign climbing.


The direct variant to the 3rd stand is even more demanding in every respect.

After the grass band the route follows the NE edge.

🅊
Grade
6
Number of pitches
13
🖜
Developer

K. Lang, H. Schmitt

Route length
630 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
450 m
🞂
Exposure
N
Equipment
the whole programme
Approach

From Musau via the Otto Mayr Hütte:

From the Otto Mayr Hut, cross the stream and partly pathlessly up the scree slope to the wall (approx. 30 min.).

 

 

From Grän:

From the valley station of the cable car to the Füssener Jöchle on the hiking trail to the summit station (45 min.). Keep right and follow the signposted path to the Otto Mayr Hut. Shortly before the hut, cross under the north face (from the car park approx. 2h). If you use the cable car, the ascent time is considerably reduced, but you will arrive relatively late at the start.

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
2 h 30 min
Descent

At the Gimpelperle from the end of the difficulties via the established abseiling piste back to the entrance.

Or after the route continue to climb up to the ridge of the Gimpelperle and then descend south on the normal route. Return to the valley via the Nesselwängler Schärtle.

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Gimpelperle  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
50m
6-
2
30m
8+
3
40m
7
4
35m
7+
5
30m
6-
6
35m
7+
7
30m
7-
8
20m
7+
9
60m
10
20m
11
55m
7
12
25m
6
🄴
Basic information

Beautiful, long alpine sport climbing route in water eroded limestone rock. Only a few passages are still a bit brittle despite the removal work and require sensitive climbing. The first rope route is identical to the extreme right climbing route Jakutien. 

In the lower part of the wall, endurance climbing on mostly good holds is the order of the day. From the 11th pitch on, the terrain changes. Now standing technique is required.

🅊
Grade
8-
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
7
Number of pitches
12
🖜
Developer

Walter Hölzler, Lena Fackler

🞂
Exposure
N
Equipment
14 Express, tape slings, abseil eight, 55m double rope
Approach

From Musau via the Otto Mayr Hütte:

From the Otto Mayr Hut, cross the stream and partly pathlessly up the scree slope to the wall (approx. 30 min.).

 

 

From Grän:

From the valley station of the cable car to the Füssener Jöchle on the hiking trail to the summit station (45 min.). Keep right and follow the signposted path to the Otto Mayr Hut. Shortly before the hut, cross under the north face (from the car park approx. 2h). If you use the cable car, the ascent time is considerably reduced, but you will arrive relatively late at the start.

Descent

At the Gimpelperle from the end of the difficulties via the established abseiling piste back to the entrance.

Or after the route continue to climb up to the ridge of the Gimpelperle and then descend south on the normal route. Return to the valley via the Nesselwängler Schärtle.

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Schrei aus Stein  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
30m
2
2
30m
6+
3
15m
7+
4
30m
7
5
55m
6-
6
40m
3
7
40m
3
8
40m
-
9
40m
3+
10
40m
7+
11
20m
7+
12
20m
6
13
20m
6+
14
20m
9
15
30m
6+
16
30m
7-
17
40m
7+
🄴
Basic information

Due to the direct line, the length and the overall requirement a highlight on the northern walls of the Tannheim mountains. But those who enter here should also take the trouble to reach the summit. For this reason, only those who have completed the last difficult rope length can sign the wall book.


The following 100 height meters to the summit are not strenuous, but require the highest concentration due to the brittle terrain.

The lower part, except for the ramp, is a short pleasure route in itself, with varied climbing in very good rock and of course a good entry to the Schertelplatte.

🅊
Grade
?
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
9
🖜
Developer

Walter Hölzler, Lena Fackler

🞂
Exposure
N
Equipment
Completely drilled in, who is on the way in 7 degrees, can do without clamping wedges.
Approach

From Musau via the Otto Mayr Hütte:

From the Otto Mayr Hut, cross the stream and partly pathlessly up the scree slope to the wall (approx. 30 min.).

 

From Grän:

From the valley station of the cable car to the Füssener Jöchle on the hiking trail to the summit station (45 min.). Keep right and follow the signposted path to the Otto Mayr Hut. Shortly before the hut, cross under the north face (from the car park approx. 2h). If you use the cable car, the ascent time is considerably reduced, but you will arrive relatively late at the start.

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
2 h 30 min
Descent

From the summit south on the normal route. The way back over the Judenscharte to the north side is not easy and tricky.

Easier via the Nesselwängler Scharte (approx. 2.5 hours to the Otto Mayr Hütte).

After the lower part you can rappel over the ridge of the Gimpelband.

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Schertelplatte  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
100m
2-3
2
50m
5+
3
30m
7
4
40m
7+
5
45m
6-
6
40m
5-
7
30m
4-
8
50m
4
9
30m
5+
10
30m
4+
11
40m
5+
12
40m
3
🄴
Basic information

The Expremklasiker of earlier years is certainly the most rewarding route for moderate climbers on the north side of the Gimpels. Especially the "Schertelplatte" offers great climbing in solid rock. After the "Schertelplatte" there are only two 5+ length hooks in the two 5+ lengths and finding the way in the upper easy part is not always easy either. After the "Schertelplatte" the route does not run directly along the edge, but always in the wall to the left of it. At the beginning over the Gimpelband (rope-free or at the right edge over the Alte Nordwand, marked standing places or rappelling points)

🅊
Grade
6+
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6
Number of pitches
12
🖜
Developer

Hermann Schertel, Max Neher

🔋
Blockhöhe max
500 m
🞂
Exposure
N
Equipment
The route has been rehabilitated. A small clamping wedge assortment is necessary.
Approach

From Musau via the Otto Mayr Hütte:

From the Otto Mayr Hut, cross the stream and partly pathlessly up the scree slope to the wall (approx. 30 min.).

 

 

From Grän:

From the valley station of the cable car to the Füssener Jöchle on the hiking trail to the summit station (45 min.). Keep right and follow the signposted path to the Otto Mayr Hut. Shortly before the hut, cross under the north face (from the car park approx. 2h). If you use the cable car, the ascent time is considerably reduced, but you will arrive relatively late at the start.

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
2 h 30 min
Descent

From the summit south on the normal route. The way back over the Judenscharte to the north side is not easy and tricky.

Easier via the Nesselwängler Scharte (approx. 2.5 hours to the Otto Mayr Hütte).

 

From the big band you can abseil down a rappel piste, which however does not exactly follow the route Tierra del Fuego.

Only something for very experienced alpine climbers!

The stands are sometimes hard to find - absolutely Prusiksicherung!

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Feuerland  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
100m
2-3
2
50m
4+
3
30m
5
4
40m
6+
5
45m
45
6
45m
7
7
50m
9-
8
25m
9
40m
8+
10
10m
7+
11
40m
7
12
48m
9-
🄴
Basic information

The demanding route leads from the lower part of the Gimpelband in a fairly direct line through the compact wall part. Between the water eroded plates there are always passages with brittle rock. Demanding alpine undertaking, mastery of the 7th degree is a prerequisite.

🅊
Grade
?
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
7+
🖜
Developer

Peter Illner, Josef Heinl

Route length
400 m
🞂
Exposure
N
Equipment
Renovated with stainless steel borehole hooks. A set of stoppers and camalots up to grade 2 necessary.
Approach

From Musau via the Otto Mayr Hütte:

From the Otto Mayr Hut, cross the stream and partly pathlessly up the scree slope to the wall (approx. 30 min.).

 

 

From Grän:

From the valley station of the cable car to the Füssener Jöchle on the hiking trail to the summit station (45 min.). Keep right and follow the signposted path to the Otto Mayr Hut. Shortly before the hut, cross under the north face (from the car park approx. 2h). If you use the cable car, the ascent time is considerably reduced, but you will arrive relatively late at the start.

🐲
Approach time, minutes to the crag
2 h 30 min
Descent

From the summit south on the normal route. The way back over the Judenscharte to the north side is not easy and tricky.

Easier via the Nesselwängler Scharte (approx. 2.5 hours to the Otto Mayr Hütte).

 

From the big band you can abseil down a rappel piste, which however does not exactly follow the route Tierra del Fuego.

Only something for very experienced alpine climbers!

The stands are sometimes hard to find - absolutely Prusiksicherung!

 

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

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Zwerchwand - Westteil

🄴
Basic information

Low but broad south wall, which adjoins the Gimpel southeast porch to the east, a large prominent gorge divides the wall into a western and an eastern part. The routes find the best way through the best parts of the wall and are all very well secured.

Number of routes
5
Grade
8- - ?
🐲
Approach time
30 min - 1 h 30 min
🞂
Exposure
S
👙
Best season
APR MAI JUN JUL AUG SEP OKT
Show routes
Miss Nesselwängle  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
25m
6a+
2
35m
6a
3
15m
2
4
25m
5b
5
20m
5c+
6
20m
6a
7
30m
7a
8
10m
6a
🄴
Basic information

Nach einen kaltstart im Einstiegsüberhang folgt schöne abwechslungsreiche Kletterei an Platten, Löchern und Leisten. Schöne Route wird häufig begangen.

🅊
Grade
?
Number of pitches
8
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann, Andi Vogt, Albert Schuster, Matthias Huber 2004

Route length
180 m
Equipment
10 Expressschlingen und ein 50m Doppelseil sollten genügen.
Approach

Von den beiden Hütten in Richtung Gimpel Normalweg. Dort wo der Weg auf den Gimpel Vorbau trifft, zweigt man rechts Richtung Nesselwängler Scharte ab. Die Routen befinden sich dann links oberhalb des Weges.

Descent

Für die Routen im westlichen Wandteil gibt es 2 gut eingerichtete Abseilpisten. Es gibt mehrere Möglichkeiten, die anspruchsvollere leitet von der höchsten Graterhebung über ein Stahlseil zur ersten, es ist eine leicht überhängende Abseilstelle und verläuft südseitig (rote Markierung), im Früjahr Vorteilhaft.

Eine leichtere Abseilpiste leitet vom höchsten Punkt des Grates westlich entlang des Grates in die Zwerchscharte und von der Scharte südlich weiter.

Es gibt auch noch eine Abseilpiste im zentralen Wandteil ca. 50m westlich des Ausstiegs der Route MISS NESSELWÄNGLE.

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Akrophobie  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
25m
6a+
2
35m
6a
3
15m
2
4
20m
6c
5
20m
6a+
6
30m
6a+
7
15m
3a
🄴
Basic information

The route branches from the third pitch of Miss Nesselwängle directly through the compact wall zone up to the ridge. The crux demands a measure of precise climbing and finger strength for the small ledges. The penultimate pitch is one of the most beautiful in the Tannheim area.

🅊
Grade
8-
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
7-
Number of pitches
7
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann, Andi Vogt 2004

Route length
170 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
10 express and 50m double rope should be sufficient
Approach

Von den beiden Hütten in Richtung Gimpel Normalweg. Dort wo der Weg auf den Gimpel Vorbau trifft, zweigt man rechts Richtung Nesselwängler Scharte ab. Die Routen befinden sich dann links oberhalb des Weges.

Descent

For the routes in the western part of the wall there are 2 well equipped abseiling pistes. There are several possibilities, the more demanding one leads from the highest ridge over a steel cable to the first one, it is a slightly overhanging abseiling point and runs south (red markings), advantageous in spring.

An easier abseiling track leads from the highest point of the ridge west along the ridge into the Zwerchscharte and from the saddle south.

There is also a rappelling slope in the central part of the wall about 50m west of the exit of the route MISS NESSELWÄNGLE.

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Siebenschläfer  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
40m
6a+
2
40m
6a
3
25m
6a+
4
15m
6b/6b+
5
20m
5c+
6
25m
5c+
🄴
Basic information

The route is very varied and leads over slabs, overhangs and intersections up to the ridge.

🅊
Grade
?
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6+
Number of pitches
6
🖜
Developer

Peter Scgwarzmann, Andi Vogt 2004

Route length
165 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
10 express and 50m double rope should be sufficient
Approach

From the two huts in direction Gimpel Normalweg. Where the path meets the Gimpel porch, turn right towards Nesselwängler Scharte. The routes are then on the left above the path.

Descent

For the routes in the western part of the wall there are 2 well equipped abseiling pistes. There are several possibilities, the more demanding one leads from the highest ridge over a steel cable to the first one, it is a slightly overhanging abseiling point and runs south (red markings), advantageous in spring.

An easier abseiling track leads from the highest point of the ridge west along the ridge into the Zwerchscharte and from the saddle south.

There is also a rappelling slope in the central part of the wall about 50m west of the exit of the route MISS NESSELWÄNGLE.

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Zwerchweg  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
30m
4c
2
45m
4b
3
30m
5c
4
20m
5c
5
20m
5b
6
20m
5b
7
20m
4c
🄴
Basic information

Continuous, homogeneous and steep climbing in predominantly good rock.

🅊
Grade
?
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6
Number of pitches
7
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann und Jörg Kühn 2003

Route length
180 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
10 express and 50m double rope should be sufficient
Approach

From the two huts in direction Gimpel Normalweg. Where the path meets the Gimpel porch, turn right towards Nesselwängler Scharte. The routes are then on the left above the path.

Descent

For the routes in the western part of the wall there are 2 well equipped abseiling pistes. There are several possibilities, the more demanding one leads from the highest ridge over a steel cable to the first one, it is a slightly overhanging abseiling point and runs south (red markings), advantageous in spring.

An easier abseiling track leads from the highest point of the ridge west along the ridge into the Zwerchscharte and from the saddle south.

There is also a rappelling slope in the central part of the wall about 50m west of the exit of the route MISS NESSELWÄNGLE.

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Till Ann  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
20m
5c
2
25m
4a
3
25m
4a
4
20m
2
5
25m
4a
6
20m
4c
7
20m
4b
8
20m
2
🄴
Basic information

In a narrow wall with a lot of grind, interesting places of cold were lined up by good guidance. The result is a plaisir suspicious route, which is very popular.

🅊
Grade
?
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
4+
Number of pitches
8
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann und Matthias Huber 2003

Route length
180 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
10 express and 50m double rope should be sufficient
Approach

From the two huts in direction Gimpel Normalweg. Where the path meets the Gimpel porch, turn right towards Nesselwängler Scharte. The routes are then on the left above the path.

Descent

For the routes in the western part of the wall there are 2 well equipped abseiling pistes. There are several possibilities, the more demanding one leads from the highest ridge over a steel cable to the first one, it is a slightly overhanging abseiling point and runs south (red markings), advantageous in spring.

An easier abseiling track leads from the highest point of the ridge west along the ridge into the Zwerchscharte and from the saddle south.

There is also a rappelling slope in the central part of the wall about 50m west of the exit of the route MISS NESSELWÄNGLE.

 

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

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Zwerchwand - Ostteil

🄴
Basic information

Low but broad south wall, which adjoins the Gimpel southeast porch to the east, a large prominent gorge divides the wall into a western and an eastern part. The routes find the best way through the best parts of the wall and are all very well secured.

Number of routes
5
Grade
? - ?
🐲
Approach time
30 min - 1 h 30 min
🞂
Exposure
S
👙
Best season
MAI JUN JUL AUG SEP OKT
Show routes
Seidenschwarz  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
35m
4b
2
35m
5c
3
30m
6a
4
30m
3b
5
30m
4b
6
35m
3c
🄴
Basic information

This is also one of the new routes, but with the most alpine touch, sometimes rough and inhomogeneous. But for safe 5-person climbers with alpine experience an alternative to the classics.

🅊
Grade
?
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
5
Number of pitches
6
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann, Uwe Schneider 2004

Route length
190 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
50m double rope and 10 express slings
Approach

From the hut in direction Gimpel Normalweg. Where the path meets the Gimpel porch, turn right towards Nesselwängler Scharte. The routes are then on the left above the path.

Descent

For the routes in the eastern part of the wall, the abseiling piste starts on the far left at the exit of route LINIE 2005. A fixed rope leads from the ridge to the first abseiling point.

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Memory  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
25m
6a/6a+
2
30m
5c+
3
30m
5c
4
20m
5c+
🄴
Basic information

The route ends under an overhang in the last third of the wall, but still offers very interesting climbing. The route is reminiscent of Richard Stängl from Immenstadt who crashed in the Bernese Oberland.

🅊
Grade
?
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
7-
Number of pitches
4
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann, Andi Vogt 2004

Route length
100 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
50m double rope and 10 express slings
Approach

From the hut in direction Gimpel Normalweg. Where the path meets the Gimpel porch, turn right towards Nesselwängler Scharte. The routes are then on the left above the path.

Descent

Abseiling slope is left of the route.

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Diebische Rentner  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
30m
4b
2
25m
5c+
3
25m
5a
4
30m
2
5
25m
5c
6
25m
5c+
7
15m
5b
🄴
Basic information

Is a worthwhile route despite several rough stretches. The first complete climb was snatched away from the setter by two thieving pensioners from Allgäu

🅊
Grade
?
Number of pitches
7
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann, jörg Kühn 2004

Route length
180 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
10 express slings and 50m double rope for the rappelling piste
Approach

From the hut in direction Gimpel Normalweg. Where the path meets the Gimpel porch, turn right towards Nesselwängler Scharte. The routes are then on the left above the path.

Descent

For the routes in the eastern part of the wall, the abseiling piste starts on the far left at the exit of route LINIE 2005. A fixed rope leads from the ridge to the first abseiling point.

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Tannheimer Revival  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
30m
5b
2
40m
6a
3
25m
6a+
4
40m
5c+
5
35m
6a
🄴
Basic information

Mostly wall, slab, and intersection climbing and a crack chimney. Interspersed with a few rugged passages and grass bands. Still the most rewarding route on the eastern diaphragm wall.

🅊
Grade
?
Number of pitches
5
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann und Jörg Kühn 2003

Route length
170 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
Mit Bohrhaken gut gesichert, 50m Doppelseil für die Abseilpste
Approach

From the hut in direction Gimpel Normalweg. Where the path meets the Gimpel porch, turn right towards Nesselwängler Scharte. The routes are then on the left above the path.

Descent

For the routes in the eastern part of the wall, the abseiling piste starts on the far left at the exit of route LINIE 2005. A fixed rope leads from the ridge to the first abseiling point.

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Linie 2005  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
35m
4b
2
30m
5c
3
35m
5c
4
35m
5c
5
35m
5a
🄴
Basic information

It's one of the easier routes along the Zwerchwand. The first pitch is a bit rough, but after that the route offers varied wall, slab and crack climbing.

🅊
Grade
?
Number of pitches
5
🖜
Developer

Toni Feudig, 2005

Route length
170 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
130 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
Is well secured with drill hooks
Approach

From the two huts in direction Gimpel Normalweg. Where the path meets the Gimpel porch, turn right towards Nesselwängler Scharte. The routes are then on the left above the path.

Descent

For the routes in the eastern part of the wall, the abseiling piste starts on the far left at the exit of route LINIE 2005. A fixed rope leads from the ridge to the first abseiling point.

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Gimpel Südostvorbau

🄴
Basic information

Short access, manageable routes, perfect protection: the routes have made the south-east porch of the Gimpels an independent, popular climbing destination in its own right. On some days there is more action here than on the south face of the Gimpel summit, which after all is one of the highest of the Tannheim mountains.

Insatiable climbers can easily do several routes in one day at the south-east porch, or after a route at the south-east porch they can add another one at the south-east wall of the Gimpel.


But there is to consider that in the routes in the lower area, one climbs right above the hiking path and can meet some rock fall hikers. Thus, absolute caution is requested.


 

Number of routes
11
Grade
5 - ?
🐲
Approach time
1 h 50 min - 2 h
🞂
Exposure
SO
👙
Best season
MAI JUN JUL AUG SEP OKT
Show routes
Wirklich oben bist du nie  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
30m
6a
2
25m
6a
3
25m
6a
4
25m
6a
5
30m
6a
6
20m
5c+
🄴
Basic information

The route "Really up until you never" is the easternmost route on the stem. The route is very homogeneous - mainly between 6 and 6+. Partly also in the 5 degree of difficulty with relatively firm rock. The 160m route is insured with bolts and is considered one of the most beautiful routes in the Tannheimertal.

🅊
Grade
?
Number of pitches
6
🖜
Developer

P. Schwarzmann und C. Zelt (2005)

Route length
160 m
Approach

From Nesselwängle to the Gimpelhaus or Tannheimerhütte and then to the south-east entrance. From the huts the ascent takes about 40 minutes (from the valley 2h 30min)

Descent

From the exit of Really Up you never climb a few meters and then turn left in a rugged gully for about 30 meters to a fixed rope that leads to the first abseil point.

It can also be crossed to the Gimpel-Normalweg and descended on it.

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Kuschelrock  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
35m
6+
2
15m
7
3
15m
6+
4
35m
6+
5
15m
8
6
20m
6-
🄴
Basic information

Route is located to the left of "You're never really on top"! Same entry and abseiling piste.


Homogenous steep wall climbing. Especially the key rope length, a steep compact hole plate with a heavy pull on small holds requires maximum strength and good technique.

🅊
Grade
?
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
7-
Number of pitches
6
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann und Jörg Kuhn

Route length
130 m
Equipment
Bohrhaken
Approach

From Nesselwängle to the Gimpelhaus or Tannheimerhütte and then to the south-east entrance. From the huts the ascent takes about 40 minutes (from the valley 2h 30min). The "Kuschelrock" route is the penultimate route on the south-east porch.

Descent

Via the abseiling piste (left of the route) or the Gimpel Normalweg back to the entrance. Approx. 50min.

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Morgenstund  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
40m
5-
2
25m
3+
3
20m
3
4
20m
4+
5
25m
5
6
45m
5+
7
45m
4+
🄴
Basic information

Diversified climbing, which leads in clever lines through the confusing wall, in the middle part identical with the south-east facing route of Landes/Biock. A few grass cushions have to be accepted, but do not disturb the enjoyment significantly. The route lies in the sun from the early morning hours. From the ascent a fixed rope leads to the right to the first abseil point.

🅊
Grade
5+
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
4+
Number of pitches
7
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann, H.G. Frosch, Gisbert Zeddel 2005

Equipment
One place also possible with hook aid
Approach

From Nesselwängle to the Gimpelhaus and then to the south-east entrance. From the hut the ascent takes about 40 minutes (from the valley 2h 30min).

Descent

From the ascent a fixed rope leads to the right to the first abseil point.

 

The fastest way is via the abseiling piste between Kuschelrock and Really up is never. From the exit of Really Up you never climb a few meters and then descend to the left in a rugged gully for about 30 meters to a fixed rope that leads to the first abseil point.

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Im Weizenglas  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
25m
1
2
30m
6-
3
40m
5+
4
45m
6
🄴
Basic information

Logical and homogeneous line through a system of chimneys and cracks. In comparison with the neighbouring routes rather sparingly secured.

🅊
Grade
6
Number of pitches
4
🖜
Developer

Toni Freudig, Seppi Walter 1989

Route length
110 m
Approach

From Nesselwängle to the Gimpelhaus and then to the south-east entrance. From the huts the ascent takes about 40 minutes (from the valley 2h 30min). The "Kuschelrock" route is the penultimate route on the south-east porch.

Descent

Descend via the forgotten normal route.

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Paradies  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
25m
6
2
25m
6+
3
35m
5+
4
35m
6
5
35m
6
🄴
Basic information

Enjoyable homogeneous climbing in good rock, very well secured and with clever rope guidance in three long rope lengths. A few holey slabs and the exposed transverse passage with plenty of air under the soles protrude. Instead of the cross passage you can also climb directly over the roof.

🅊
Grade
6+
Number of pitches
5
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann, Uwe Schneider 2005

Route length
130 m
Equipment
Difficult places can be overcome with the help of hooks.
Approach

From Nesselwängle to the Gimpelhaus and then to the south-east entrance. From the hut the access takes about 40min (from the valley 2h 30min)

Descent

Abseiling over time for threading

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Paartaler Pfeiler  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
25m
7-
2
28m
7
3
26m
6+
4
20m
7+
🄴
Basic information

Varied climbing over slabs, intersections and overhangs. The key point is waiting in an intersection where mobility and good splaying lead to success. The rock is mostly solid, but great caution is advisable, because the trail runs directly below the route!

Meanwhile the route ends at the wall book after the 4th pitch. Be careful when abseiling!

🅊
Grade
7+
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6+
Number of pitches
4
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann, H.-G.Frosch 2005

Route length
130 m
Equipment
Overcoming heavy spots with hook aid
Approach

From Nesselwängle to the Gimpelhaus and then to the south-east entrance. From the huts the ascent takes about 40 minutes (from the valley 2h 30min).

Descent

2x60m abseiling over the route

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Zeit zum Fädeln  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
20m
1
2
35m
5+
3
35m
5
🄴
Basic information

Perfectly secured pleasure climbing (one point 5+, also A0 possible) on predominantly solid rock.

🅊
Grade
5+
Number of pitches
3
🖜
Developer

T. Freudig, M.Kucht 1990

Route length
70 m
Approach

From Nesselwängle to the Gimpelhaus or Tannheimerhütte and then to the south-east entrance. From the huts the ascent takes about 40 minutes (from the valley 2h 30min).

Descent

Descend via the Forgotten Normal Path (abseiling piste was removed due to danger of falling rocks). If there is time for threading, abseiling can be done via the route.

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Mit dem letzten Licht  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
45m
8
🄴
Basic information

Exit variant set up from above, which requires a lot of effort. Well secured with drill hooks.

Access via the route Fers-frakt-li.

🅊
Grade
8+
Number of pitches
1
Route length
45 m
Approach

Access via the Fers-frakt-li route

Descent

Descend via the forgotten normal route.

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Primavera (Baldoplatte)  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
45m
8-
🄴
Basic information

Persistently difficult rope length in compact rock. Well secured with bolts.

Access via the route Fers-frakt-li

🅊
Grade
8-
Number of pitches
1
Route length
45 m
Approach

Access via the Fers-frakt-li route

Descent

Descend via the forgotten normal route.

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Fers-frakt-li  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
50m
7
2
45m
8
🄴
Basic information

Entry for Primavera and With the last light. a short place 7, the rest easier. Mostly good rock. Well secured.

🅊
Grade
7
Number of pitches
2
Route length
50 m
Approach

From Nesselwängle to the Gimpelhaus or Tannheimerhütte and then to the south-east entrance. From the huts the ascent takes about 40 minutes (from the valley 2h 30min). The "Kuschelrock" route is the penultimate route on the south-east porch.

Descent

Descend via the forgotten normal route.

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Zeit zum Klicken  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
20m
5
2
25m
5
🄴
Basic information

Route secured with borehooks in solid, flat rock with persistent difficulties in the 5th degree.

🅊
Grade
5
Number of pitches
2
🖜
Developer

Toni Freudig, Peter Trzaska, Bernd Strobach 1998

Route length
45 m
🞂
Exposure
SO
Approach

From Nesselwängle to the Gimpelhaus and then to the south-east entrance. From the huts the ascent takes about 40 minutes (from the valley 2h 30min). The "Kuschelrock" route is the penultimate route on the south-east porch.

Descent

Descend via the forgotten normal route.

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Schäfer

🄴
Basic information

Die letzte Erhebung im langen Ostausläufer des Gimpels. Der recht grasige Felskopf ragt westlich der Nesselwängler Scharte auf und kann von dort püber den kurzen Ostrgrat ereecht werden,

Durch den kompakten Teil der Südwand führen kurze und optimal mit Bohrhaken gesicherte Routen.

Wer den Schwierigkeiten gewachsen, ist ist es ein nettes Ausweichziel um den Südwanrummel zu entfliehen.

Number of routes
3
Grade
? - ?
Show routes
Auf rauen Wegen zu den Sternen  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
20m
6a
2
15m
6a+
3
10m
6a+
4
20m
7a
🄴
Basic information

Sport climbing with an alpine touch, on the leaning pillar on the left of the shepherd.

The last pitch offers steep climbing in very rough rock.

🅊
Grade
?
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
7-
Number of pitches
4
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann, Andi Vogt, Georg Motzet 2003

Route length
65 m
Equipment
Perfekt mit Bohrhaken gesichert, kein zusätzliches Material notwendig
Approach

Von den Hütten auf dem Wanderweg in Richtung Nesselwängler Scharte. Wo der Weg den Fels erreicht noch 50m ansteigend weiter. Dann den Weg nach links oben verlassen und über Schrofen und Geröll zu den Einstiegen

Descent

Über die Routen 1 bis 3 wird üblich abgeseilt.

Wer dass Gipfelerlebniss will muss drei selbzusichernde Seillängen im 3 u. 4 Schwierigkeitsgrad bewältigen. Oder wer den Gipfel über die Route Svenja erreicht hat, steigt über den Ostgrat zur Nesselwängler Scharte ab.

1-2 bei Nässe unangenehm.

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D`r Fischer Franze  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
20m
6a
2
20m
6b/6b+
3
15m
6a
4
20m
6c/6c+
5
25m
5c+
🄴
Basic information

Diese Route bietet anspruchsvolle steile Wand- und Risskletterei mit anhaltender und homogen verteilter Schwierigkeit.

🅊
Grade
?
Number of pitches
5
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann und Jürgen Vogt 2003

Route length
100 m
Approach

Von den Hütten auf dem Wanderweg in Richtung Nesselwängler Scharte. Wo der Weg den Fels erreicht noch 50m ansteigend weiter. Dann den Weg nach links oben verlassen und über Schrofen und Geröll zu den Einstiegen

Descent

Über die Routen 1 bis 3 wird üblich abgeseilt.

Wer dass Gipfelerlebniss will, muss drei selbzusichernde Seillängen im 3 u. 4 Schwierigkeitsgrad bewältigen. Oder wer den Gipfel über die Route Svenja erreicht hat, steigt über den Ostgrat zur Nesselwängler Scharte ab.

1-2 bei Nässe unangenehm.

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Schäferstündchen  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
20m
6a+
2
20m
6c/6c+
3
20m
6a
4
25m
6a+
5
15m
6b/6b+
6
25m
5c+
🄴
Basic information

Alpine Sportkletterei an kompakten Fels. Schöne und ausgesetzte Wand- und Plattenkletteri mit intessanteb Querungen. Sehr beliebt??

🅊
Grade
?
Number of pitches
6
🖜
Developer

Peter Schwarzmann, Uwe Schneider,Stefan Ritschel, Werner Strube 2005

Route length
125 m
Approach

Von den Hütten auf dem Wanderweg in Richtung Nesselwängler Scharte. Wo der Weg den Fels erreicht noch 50m ansteigend weiter. Dann den Weg nach links oben verlassen und über Schrofen und Geröll zu den Einstiegen

Descent

Über die Routen 1 bis 3 wird üblich abgeseilt.

Wer dass Gipfelerlebniss will muss drei selbzusichernde Seillängen im 3 u. 4 Schwierigkeitsgrad bewältigen. Oder wer den Gipfel über die Route Svenja erreicht hat, steigt über den Ostgrat zur Nesselwängler Scharte ab.

1-2 bei Nässe unangenehm.

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