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Gehrenspitze

🄴
Basic information

The free-standing peak offers a magnificent view over large parts of the Tannheim mountains, the neighbouring Ammergau mountains and the Alpine foothills. As the normal route only requires short climbing sections in the first degree, the Gehrenspitze is at the top of the wish list of high-level hikers. Climbers, on the other hand, rarely get lost here, which is partly due to the long ascent and partly to the alpine character of the routes.

The Gehrenspitze is almost completely climbable. Like all Tannheim mountains it shows its friendly face towards the south. In the southern face, which is at most almost 200 metres high, also more moderate climbers have a job to do. Provided that they are more interested in peace and quiet than in socialising with other mountain friends.

Number of routes
15
Grade
3+ - 7
🞱
Altidude
2164 m
🐈
Parking

Gehrenalm car park in Wängle

Gehrenspitze Nordwand

🄴
Basic information

The north face of the Gehrenspitze is the most closed wall of the Tannheimer Berge, but due to the rather alpine protection it is only rarely visited.

The most frequented paths are the "Hermann Loderer Ged. Weg" and the classic Direct North Face, also called "Maiselführe". The "Battertriss" running between them is one of the greatest climbing achievements of the 1920s.

All routes on the Gehrenspitze North Face have nothing to do with climbing on the sunny side of Tannheim and are only recommended to climbers with alpine experience who can handle wedges and crumbly rock!

Number of routes
3
Grade
6- - 7-
🞂
Exposure
N
Show routes
Direkte Nordwand  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
45m
3
2
45m
5-
3
45m
4-
4
25m
3-
5
35m
5
6
45m
2
7
25m
5-
8
40m
6-
9
45m
5
10
45m
5+
11
45m
5
12
45m
4+
🄴
Basic information

For the year 1921 an impressive mix of slab, crack and chimney climbing. The stands are mostly renovated. There is little in between and it is not always possible to lay something reliable. It is advisable to master the 6th degree safely.

🅊
Grade
6-
Number of pitches
12
🖜
Developer

A. Maisel, Munz 1921

Route length
610 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
550 m
🞂
Exposure
N
Equipment
Clamping wedges and friends indispensable, possibly also a few hooks
Approach
Descent

Take the normal path in a westerly direction to the saddle and descend on the south side through the gully. Via the Gehrenjoch back to the north side.

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Battertriss  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
20m
2
2
45m
2+
3
40m
4+
4
40m
4-
5
20m
6
30m
6
7
45m
6+
8
60m
6+
9
40m
5+
10
45m
6-
11
45m
1
🄴
Basic information

Very serious crack and chimney climbing, one of the most demanding routes in the Tannheim area, often wet and only rarely repeated. The rock is very compact and prone to cracks, so longer routes can be climbed without belay. Due to a rock outcrop in the upper part, the exit via the Hermann-Loderer memorial path or the Battert and Hermann variant is recommended.

🅊
Grade
7
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
6+
Number of pitches
11
🖜
Developer

W. Stösser, L. Hall, F. Schütt 1928

Route length
530 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
550 m
🞂
Exposure
N
Approach
Descent

Take the normal path in a westerly direction to the saddle and descend on the south side through the gully. Via the Gehrenjoch back to the north side.

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Hermann Loderer Gedenkweg  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
50m
5-
2
45m
5+
3
50m
5-
4
45m
6+
5
45m
5-
6
45m
5-
7
45m
6+
8
30m
7-
9
40m
7-
10
45m
5+
11
45m
5+
12
45m
3
13
40m
3
14
30m
3+
15
35m
2
🄴
Basic information

Rewarding alpine free climbers of classic character with some interesting sections. Only rarely brittle.

🅊
Grade
7-
Number of pitches
15
🖜
Developer

M. Lutz, Rainer und Christian Loderer 1988

Route length
640 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
550 m
🞂
Exposure
N
Equipment
One set of Camalots and stoppers required
Approach

Possibly Musauer Alm

From the parking lot at the Gasthof Bärenfalle on the gravel road with MTB in 1 to 1.5 hours to reach. From there further touring possibilities on the Kellespitze north face and the Gimpel north face.

 

From the parking lot at the Gasthof Bärenfalle on the gravel road towards Musauer Alm. Halfway along the route you reach a crossroads. The older path on the left directly at the Sabachbach stream is a little shorter, more direct but steeper. The right path is flatter and better prepared and therefore more recommendable for mountain bikers. About 500m before the hut, a gravel road branches off to the left, with a bridge over the stream and a signpost for an alleged dead end. Follow this road and finally take the path branching off to the left (the direct path from the Musauer Alm comes up from the bottom right) to Kar with a scree slope under the foot of the wall (just under 2 hours from the car park). The scree dump below the wall, which leads to the entrance, is difficult to climb - no matter which path - and requires another 30 minutes of hard work.

 

Possibility A: On the far right, climb up on the scree ridge and then cross the scree to the left below the wall until you reach the entrance.

 

Possibility B: On the far left in a tree-covered scree and grass gutter, then leave the gutter to the right over its mountain pine covered back and continue to the right diagonally up over scree to the entrance. The path directly through the mountain pines up to the entrance is not very promising.

Descent

Take the normal path in a westerly direction to the saddle and descend on the south side through the gully. To return to the starting point, continue on the normal path to the Gehrenjoch. Descend in a north-westerly direction over initially open meadow slopes on a small path towards Musauer Alm. Past the Sabahütte. Behind the Sabahütte, first horizontally across a meadow and then on a clearly visible path. In the forest, the path descends steeper until you come to the rocky cirque under the foot of the wall. From here, take the ascent path back (about 2-2.5 hours from the summit to the car park).

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Gehrenspitze Südwand

🄴
Basic information

Valley village for the south side: Wängle (882m), a few kilometres west of Reutte

Access to the south wall: The entrances to the south wall routes are located on the right of the normal route. If you want to do a south wall route following the west ridge, you descend through the channel of the normal route to the entrances (approx. 2.5 hours from the valley).


Tip:

Nearly half of the approx. 1100 m difference in altitude of the ascent can advantageously be covered by mountain bike.

Number of routes
5
Grade
3+ - 6
🐲
Approach time
2 h - 2 h 30 min
🞂
Exposure
S
Show routes
Südpfeiler  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
25m
2
30m
5+
3
30m
4
4
30m
4-
5
35m
6
6
20m
5+
🄴
Basic information

Demanding climbing along the prominent pillar in the middle of the wall. The total requirement can be increased by using the left entry and in the middle section by using the direct right variant.

🅊
Grade
6
Number of pitches
6
🖜
Developer

P. Risch und Gef. 1922

Route length
190 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
170 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
The stands and occasionally also intermediate hooks are drilled, but stoppers are advisable for further protection
Approach
Descent

Take the normal path in a westerly direction to the saddle and descend on the south side through the gully. Abseiling from the south pillar is possible with a 60m single rope.

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Alte Südwand  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
25m
3
2
25m
4
3
40m
4
4
35m
4-
5
15m
5-
6
35m
3
🄴
Basic information

Logical line through the wall indentation between the southwest ridge and the south pillar. The route starts a little bit restrained, but gets better and better and more rewarding towards the top.

🅊
Grade
4+
Number of pitches
6
🖜
Developer

O. Leixl, v. Overkamp, v. Schwerin 1920

Route length
180 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
150 m
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
Stand and intermediate hooks are drilled.
Approach
Descent

Take the normal path in a westerly direction to the saddle and descend on the south side through the gully. Abseiling from the south pillar is possible with a 60m single rope.

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Südwestkante  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
45m
5
2
40m
3
3
35m
3+
4
40m
3
5
30m
3-
🄴
Basic information

Right airy, firm climbing, mostly left of the actual edge.

🅊
Grade
5
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
3+
Number of pitches
5
🖜
Developer

A. Maisel und Gef. 1922

Route length
180 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
140 m
🞂
Exposure
SW
Equipment
Well secured, some stoppers still advisable
Approach
Descent

From the summit over the ridge in a westerly direction until you reach a saddle. Now descend southwards through the gully until the path keeps right to the Gehrenjoch.

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Südwestwand  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
20m
3-
2
40m
4+
3
35m
4+
4
45m
4+
🄴
Basic information

Attractive climbing on solid rock. The short route is also ideal as a crowning finish to the West Ridge. To do this, one descends from the saddle before the summit structure through the gully of the normal path and crosses on a ribbon to the first, not so easy to find, belaystation.

🅊
Grade
4+
Number of pitches
5
🖜
Developer

A. Maisel und Gef. 1922

Route length
120 m
🔋
Blockhöhe max
90 m
🞂
Exposure
S, SW
Approach
Descent

From the summit over the ridge in a westerly direction until you reach a saddle. Now descend southwards through the gully until the path keeps right to the Gehrenjoch.

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Westgrat  
Nr.
Length
Grad
1
40m
3-
2
45m
2
3
40m
3-
4
40m
3+
5
40m
3-
6
45m
4-
7
45m
3-
8
45m
2
9
40m
3
10
45m
3-
11
25m
3
12
35m
13
35m
40
14
40m
3+
15
40m
3
16
35m
3
17
45m
3
🄴
Basic information

Impressive ridge climbing on the western pre-peak. The route can be extended as you wish with lower starting points - if you start at the very bottom, you can enter the Complete West Ridge in your tour book.

A few ridges cannot be avoided. The difficult climbing sections, however, all run on solid rock.


After rope length 14 approx. 150m walking terrain (up to a small saddle and then to the left of the ridge until the rock on the right of a gully becomes steeper and firm again)

🅊
Grade
3+
🅊
Schwierigkeitsgrad obligatorisch
4-
Number of pitches
18
🞂
Exposure
S
Equipment
The entire route has been rehabilitated, with unclear areas marked in colour. Take enough slings - even longer ones - for jagged stands and intermediate belaying.
Approach
Descent

Descent:

From the summit over the ridge in a westerly direction to a saddle. Now descend southwards through the gullies until the path keeps right to the Gehrenjoch. From there back to the valley.

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